Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[MossRoad]

Well, I measured them and they are 4" bore X 2.25" rod diameter.

According to the hydraulics calulator at Surplus Center I should get 31,000 pounds of push and 21,000 pounds of pull. I should get 147" per minute of push and 215" per minute of pull. That translates to about 7 seconds to extend 16" at full throttle. I think that will be fine... full boom extension or full dipper curl back in about 7 seconds. That should prevent any sudden movements. Boom retraction and dipper extension will be faster, but less powerful.

The cylinder ends are tube ends, which are rather big. However, I had some CAT2-3 spacers and they fit perfectly so that I can still use my 1" pins and bushings! What a lucky dog I am!!!

Now all I need is two joysticks, two valves for the outriggers, one cylinder for the bucket, the bucket and the bucket linkage. And, of course, all the hoses and fittings.

 

[BobRip]

Well, I measured them and they are 4" bore X 2.25" rod diameter.

According to the hydraulics calulator at Surplus Center I should get 31,000 pounds of push and 21,000 pounds of pull. I should get 147" per minute of push and 215" per minute of pull. That translates to about 7 seconds to extend 16" at full throttle. I think that will be fine... full boom extension or full dipper curl back in about 7 seconds. That should prevent any sudden movements. Boom retraction and dipper extension will be faster, but less powerful.

The cylinder ends are tube ends, which are rather big. However, I had some CAT2-3 spacers and they fit perfectly so that I can still use my 1" pins and bushings! What a lucky dog I am!!!

Now all I need is two joysticks, two valves for the outriggers, one cylinder for the bucket, the bucket and the bucket linkage. And, of course, all the hoses and fittings.

If everyone will please send Moss the stuff that you can spare that he requested above, I am sure he would appreciate it. After all he has done for this site, we certainly owe it to him.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Hes got the bucket here lol. I need to get his address and phone number.

 

[MossRoad]

I will be sending you a PM later this week. Thanks again!

I picked up some cat 3 top link ends that I am going to use on the rod ends instead of the tube type ends. That's because the entire unit is not perfectly square and the tubes will bind. I did the same thing for the swing cylinders and they work fine.

By the way, the cylinders are a 25" stroke! They may be too long!!!! If they are, they will make a decent log splitter. As I recall, the 16" stroke cylinders with clevis ends that the plans call for are about 31" end to end. These are only 32" end to end. So even though they are about the same length, they may have too much movement. I will find out later this week when it dries out. It has rained for several days and is too damp to do any arc welding in the driveway.


Running totals:
Time = 44 hrs.
Approximate Cost = $550

 

[MossRoad]

I will be sending you a PM later this week. Thanks again!

By the way, the cylinders are a 25" stroke! They may be too long!!!! If they are, they will make a decent log splitter. As I recall, the 16" stroke cylinders with clevis ends that the plans call for are about 31" end to end. These are only 32" end to end. So even though they are about the same length, they may have too much movement. I will find out later this week when it dries out. It has rained for several days and is too damp to do any arc welding in the driveway.

Well, the big free cylinders are just plain too big. The movement is just way too long. The things only extend 18" and I am at the end of my boom travel. There is still 7" of travel left. If I remember to stop when I get to the end, I would be O.K., but that would never happen. I would end up buckling the boom or the boom mount and destroying the thing. Oh, well... log splitter duty is in order for those bad boys!

 

[MossRoad]

Thinking about hydraulic valves....

I'm looking at the Prince sectional valves. I can order them in just about any configuration imaginable and can get joysticks to control any two adjacent spools. I'm thinking of putting the bucket and boom controls on the left joystick and the dipper and thumb on the right joystick and foot controls for left and right swing. The outriggers will have stubby handles and be located between the joysticks.

They all appear to be just simple, dual action cylinders, so I am thinking about getting simple, dual action valve sections. Anyone see a need for float or regen? I don't think I need it so complicated for regen as it will not be a daily use item and I don't see a need for the time savings and added cost of regen circuitry. I also cannot see a need for a float option for any of the valves. Can anyone see a reason for float?

Any other thoughts on valving?

 

[Taylortractornut]

MR float on the main boom would be handy for running an compaction wheel on the end of the dipper. uesd to run an old Drott hoe that had float in it for working around rail ways. you used the weight and the stick to control down pressure. when in hard diggin you flipped a switch and you had loads f pressure. The float mainly kept it from pushing itself over backwards when on a bridge or raised ballasted track.

 

[MossRoad]

MR float on the main boom would be handy for running an compaction wheel on the end of the dipper. uesd to run an old Drott hoe that had float in it for working around rail ways. you used the weight and the stick to control down pressure. when in hard diggin you flipped a switch and you had loads f pressure. The float mainly kept it from pushing itself over backwards when on a bridge or raised ballasted track.

Thanks. I was trying to think of a situation where it could usefull. The option for float is only a couple bucks more so I will probably get it.

 

[Beechwood]

Thanks. I was trying to think of a situation where it could usefull. The option for float is only a couple bucks more so I will probably get it.

MR; I installed a float spool for my quick attach plate, so far I have only used it with my snow blade and it makes a big differance when pushing wet heavy snow. I adjust the HT. of the blade with my lift arms then I put the attachment plate in float, then the snow blade will pivot up and down as needed without getting the crabbing up effect. ( when I used to have the lift arms in float)

 

[MossRoad]

Hmmm. I set the left/right angle of the blade with the quick attach circuit, the height of my blade with the dump/curl circuit, then put the FEL arms in float.

Are you saying you put the plow's left/right (quick attach) circuit into float with your new valve? So you now have float on the quick attach circuit and the FEL arms? That sounds interesting. If the plow is free to pivot left/right, how do you keep it from flipping back and forth on you as you turn your steering wheel? Maybe we should start another thread on this, as it sounds interesting.