Re: Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

**J_J** · 02-20-2006, 07:04 PM

David, Most of the cylinders that I use have cross tubes, and some even have grease fittings. When I put my kit together, I drilled a hole for a grease fittings on the cross tubes that are welded in. I also tighten down on the 1 in lock nut so the cross tube on the cylinder will roll around the 1 in bolt. On the cylinders that have ears instead of cross tubes, I put a spacer in between the ears and outside the ears if needed. to avoid side shift. Yes, keep grease in the cross tubes. As far as the bolt turning, once you put every thing together, put a tack weld on two sides of the 1 in lock nut. You will never lose it and can just remove the 1 in bolt to remove the cylinder. If you are going to use pins, you have to drill a 1/4 in hole in the pin and collar, and use a 1/4 bolt and lock nut to hold the pin stationary. You only have to drill one side.

**marrt** · 02-20-2006, 07:36 PM

My hoe doesn't even have a place for a tag. However, it's funny that you brought this up. When I bought it and was pulling it home, a cop got behind me. The same thought occured to me at that time. Apparently, there was no problem as he went on by. However, this is the govt we're talking about. If they haven't found a way to tax it yet, just wait a month.

**Taylortractornut** · 02-20-2006, 08:28 PM

Most if not all states dont require a tag for any towed equipment suchs as Splitters pumps,towed backhoes and chippers. Or combine header trailers.

**MossRoad** · 02-21-2006, 07:43 AM

<font color="blue"> As far as the bolt turning, once you put every thing together, put a tack weld on two sides of the 1 in lock nut. You will never lose it and can just remove the 1 in bolt to remove the cylinder. </font>

J_J,
Where's the icon for "smacking myself in the foreheaed?" Sometimes the obvious just escapes me. Thanks for the tip! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

**Taylortractornut** · 02-21-2006, 06:48 PM

How bout on one of the flats of the hex head on the bolts head laying a section of key stock a bit wider than the flat is long and tack it on the ends. THis makes for a very rapid removal and the nut doesnt have to be welded to the boom. Lots of equpiment has this set up I see it alot on skid steers and other machine. One proble with weld ing the nut the threads my wear over tim and the tacks have to be removed. With the flat wit hthe key stack tacked beside it you just take off the nut and drive out the bolt.

**MossRoad** · 02-21-2006, 09:37 PM

So I could put the bolt and nut in, then tighten it up a bit until the bolt head is flush with the surface it is going through. Then lay a piece of square stock steel, say 1/2" X 1/2" flush against one of the six sides of the bolt head and tack it on both ends? Then I could thighten the nut to whatever torque I decide and the square stock will keep the bolt from turning? That sounds cool, too. Another good suggestion. Thanks! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

**Highridge** · 02-21-2006, 09:50 PM

That's what PT did on my mini-hoe. Works Good!

**MossRoad** · 02-21-2006, 11:35 PM

Anyone got a picture of that?

**Taylortractornut** · 02-22-2006, 08:59 AM

Yep and it works great on a pivot point, as the nut head and bolt head both rotate with each other. Case did this with their first skid steer backhoes. It workd great when chaning pivots just one wrench needed.

**Charlie_Iliff** · 02-22-2006, 04:07 PM

<font color="red">a piece of square stock steel, say 1/2" X 1/2" flush against one of the six sides </font>

Naw: Get yourself a cheapo box wrench, put it on the bolt head and weld the wrench in place. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

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