Wheel Motor Leak

[tlb]

I was mowing yesterday and stopped to check the mower deck for what sounded like a bad bearing. As I was checking the spindles I noticed a large pool of oil under the left front tire (see picture). Upon closer inspection the inside rim was covered in oil soaked mud. I jacked up the tractor and took off the wheel. It looks like the hydraulic motor shaft seal is leaking. I dit not see oil residue around the hoses connected to the motor.

I followed a few threads from previous posts about leaking wheel motors and was wondering if someone could give me an idea of 1) should I try to fix it myself, 2) send it back to PT for repair, 3) buy a new one? If PT rebuilds, any idea of costs?
Thanks,
-Tim

 

[tlb]

Attached it a pic of the motor. Note the oil soaked dirt underneath. When the tractor is not running the oil drips out very slowly (almost unoticable). Under load it is a continuous stream.

In one earlier thread there was talk of having to use a very fine filter when the motor was replaced to avoid particulates getting into the hydraulic system. Can anyone elaborate on this?

Also, can someone point out at which point do I remove the hoses to the motor. The hoses are connected to a straight thru adapter (looks like it changes thread size) then to a 90degree elbow adapter which is connected to the motor.

-Tim

 

[tracdoc]

From what I have learned here in the Forum, the wheel motors are pretty darn expensive. That said, I would first look at the re-building option. Do you have a hydraulic shop within an easy drive? Generally, a local re-build is going to be more economical (assuming that the motor is indeed re-buildable). Also, a local (honest) hydraulic shop can do the "diagnostics" fairly economically to let you know what you're into--rebuild and at what cost, or new. Most shops also give a warranty of their work, so if a seal blows, etc., you don't have to pack it up and suck up another round of shipping costs. imo, I would check with Terry at PT first and then compare with local estimate.

Fixing it by self may be an option for some, but I doubt I have the tools or skill set to take that on, so I will offer no advice there /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[marrt]

You may be able to find a new one on Surplus Center Link pretty cheap. The trick is to figure out the exact motor that PT uses on your tractor. Don't recall that we've ever figured that out definitively. Perhaps you could take the motor to a hydraulics repair shop and get an estimate on a rebuild. They may also be able to tell you the exact model number.

 

[BobRip]

I am probably the one who brought up the ultrafine filter. They may not be doing that anymore. Call Terry and see what he says. I would go with the local rebuild. They will replaced the seal and maybe a bearing if it is bad also. The rest of the motors look to me like they cannot wear out. Of course something could be broken.

Bob Rip

 

[J_J]

You could fix this your self with a seal kit from PT. If you are unsure of your capabilities, take the motor to a hydraulic shop with the seal kit, and have them reseal it, and test it while you watch.

 

[J_J]

You could fix this your self with a seal kit from PT. If you are unsure of your capabilities, take the motor to a hydraulic shop with the seal kit, and have them reseal it, and test it while you watch.

 

[lowellw2]

Since you are in Austin, you may want to discuss your problem with Hydraulic House, 6300-A Burleson Road. Their phone is 512-385-7100. I've dealt with Eddy Pabon. I don't yet have a PT but I'll bet you bought the one that was located on the west side of Austin near Dripping Springs. I looked at that one, but didn't have the $ at the time. I've used the Hydraulic House to rebuild a cylinder and hoses on my Kybota. I'm told the big contractors use them.

 

[lowellw2]

Since you are in Austin, you may want to discuss your problem with Hydraulic House, 6300-A Burleson Road. Their phone is 512-385-7100. I've dealt with Eddy Pabon. I don't yet have a PT but I'll bet you bought the one that was located on the west side of Austin near Dripping Springs. I looked at that one, but didn't have the $ at the time. I've used the Hydraulic House to rebuild a cylinder and hoses on my Kybota. I'm told the big contractors use them.

 

[tlb]

Lowell,
Thanks for the feedback. Yes I bought the one in DS. I picked it up May 2004 and was told it was 2 years old at that time. You know what the terrain is like around here and I have used the heck out of this machine. Knowing what I know now I wish I had gone with at least a 1430. Interestingly, I found a thread posted by the guy I bought the tractor from about a year before I bought it and he recommended the 1430 for this area. I would agree with his assesment. The 425 just doesn't have the muscle to handle the terrain, rocks, and trees. I think this is why the wheel motor gave up the ghost. In the 2 years since I bought the tractor I have had to replace all 4 tires with 6 ply (slime just did not work), have the lift arms re-welded 4 times, replace the mower spindle, re-weld the mower deck, replace 3 mwer blades, and re-weld the small material bucket. I do not think these are quality issues, rather a characteristic of the area we live in. Given a choice between a CUT and a PT I would still choose the PT.
-Tim