1845 starting problem

[Bob999]

After mowing today I shut down the 1845 to clean the mower. When I tried to restart after cleaning the engine would not start.

The battery checked out OK and the connections at the battery were clean. The fan would start up when I turned the ignition on but the starter did nothing when the key was turned to start.

I started to trace the wiring to the starter and found a 50 AMP fuse in the dircuit to the starter solenoid. I pulled the fuse out and it was not blown but the contacts were a little dirty. I cleaned the contacts on the fuse and reinserted it and the engine started.

 

[BobRip]

Re: 1845 starting problem

Thanks for the description and fix for your problem. Where do you store your PT? Could moisture have gotten into the fuse holder, or is this just one of those things that occasionally happen?

On my PT 422 I have replaced both of the fuse holders (20 amp). I think vibration loosenedd the connections inside the holders. They are insulation displacement type and I have seen problems with them in trailers.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Re: 1845 starting problem

Bob:
The contacts may have been the problem, but you may also have the dreaded "solenoid needs all 12 volts" problem. Mine often wouldn't start when hot. Finally, pursuant to advice on here (sorry, I don't remember whose.) I wired a Ford solenoid next to the starter - a solenoid to feed the solenoid. It's a long circuit from the battery, through the junction box & fuse, up to the starter switch and back to the solenoid. The Ford solenoid doesn't seem to mind, but it didn't have enough to pull the Deutz solenoid in, particularly if the hydraulic fan was running. It hasn't missed a lick since the installation.

 

[BobRip]

Re: 1845 starting problem

I saw this "solenoid needs 12 volts" on some cars and have added a relay to compensate. I think the solenoids were designed before all of the interlocks (seat, blades, gear, etc.) were required. Now with all of these devices there is much wire, connectors, and switches between the battery and the solenoid.

These failures were definately the fuse holder. One was for the fan. When you wiggled the fuse holder it would start and stop. The other was running power and not starting.
There is only one interlock fpr starting on the 422 (I think) it is the PTO. You cannot start if the PTO switch is on.

 

[Bob999]

Re: 1845 starting problem

Where do you store your PT? Could moisture have gotten into the fuse holder, or is this just one of those things that occasionally happen?

I store it in a garage and the conditions were dry when this happened. As a result I discount the moisture theory.

I think it was simply a problem of too much voltage drop across the contacts on the fuse with the result that the solenoid would not pull in.

Charlie Iliff's explanation of the requirement for a full 12 volts seems to be the best fit for what happened.

 

[DHS]

Re: 1845 starting problem

Bob,

Last month I had a bad battery cable. Actually, the positive post connector that clamps the starter cable was not making adequate contact. I removed the bolts clamping the cable and noticed the cable was badly corroded. The connection was good enough to indicate 12 volts at the starter end of the cable but not good enough to carry starter current.

Dale

 

[jfh28]

Re: 1845 starting problem

I had the same problem with my 2425 and the fuseholder. If you gave it a good squeeze where it pricked the wire it would start up. Haven't had any problems since replacing it. Still haven't found the fuse going to the fan but have not had any problems with it either so leaving well enough alone.

Jack

 

[Bob999]

Re: 1845 starting problem

Some new information on the starting problem.

It was getting worse and I started a more careful examination of wiring and connections. When I opened the wiring connection box in the engine compartment wires at the number one and two connectors, on the side that connects to the wiring harness to the instrument panel, broke off with just a light touch. The number one connection is the power supply to the instrument panel and all switches. The number two connection is the power from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start.

It appears the problem was that the wires were cut a bit short and pulled very tight to connect to the connector block--with heat cool cycles gradually causing the wires to break. (I have to wonder if something like this could have caused the fire in Sedgewood's 1845?)

The wires coming into the box are too short to re-strip and re-connect so I need to make some mods to get things working again.

I will bypass connectors one and two on the connection block in the engine compartment as a work around for the short wires.

Additionally, my intent is to install solenoids for the fan and starter solenoid circuit so that current to power these devices does not flow through the ignition switch. While I am at it I also plan to replace the 50 amp main power supply fuse and the 20 amp fan fuse with circuit breakers.

 

[Sedgewood]

Re: 1845 starting problem

Some new information on the starting problem.

<snip>

It appears the problem was that the wires were cut a bit short and pulled very tight to connect to the connector block--with heat cool cycles gradually causing the wires to break. (I have to wonder if something like this could have caused the fire in Sedgewood's 1845?)

<snip>

Nope. I never figured out the cause of the fire and while it was probably electrical it wasn't the connections from the cable to the connector block. I took a look at a picture I have that shows them all intact after the fire.

I've been having start problems too and found my main problem to be high resistance in the neutral safety switch or it's connections. I bypassed it and now I sometimes get a hesitation before the solenoid pulls in. I think a start relay would be a good idea in my system too.

Sedgewood