Lifting capacity

[RegL]

On my 1445, there is a small block at the left rear that has two relief valves.
As far as testing, or adjusting, you can plug a gage in the circuit and adjust. You can do this by teeing in a gage, and try to lift an imoveable object, that way, you can see and hear when the relief valves are operatig. Before I put a hydraulic gage in my system, I was having trouble with the lift capacity , which was very low. PT told me to send them back to them, and they would check the relief pressure. I could have taken them to a local hydraulic shop for testing, Anyway, they tested OK. It turned out to be the lift pump, which I believe was leaking internally. A new lift pump fixed my problem.

Thanks JJ. I like the idea of installing a pressure gauge. I don't want to get greedy with the lift circuit but it would be nice to know that I'm getting every bit it was designed to do. And hope I'm Not being to dumb here, but do you mean left rear of pump or engine compartment?

 

[Bob999]

Thanks JJ. I like the idea of installing a pressure gauge. I don't want to get greedy with the lift circuit but it would be nice to know that I'm getting every bit it was designed to do. And hope I'm Not being to dumb here, but do you mean left rear of pump or engine compartment?

One additional thought. I have seen specifications for pressure and flow for the PTO circuit. I have never seen specifications for the lift circuit. The pressure spec might be the same and might be different. I think it would be prudent to contact PT before changing any safety valve setting!

 

[BobRip]

I agree about the variable rating per attachment. I doubt that PT wants to complicate their marketing stretegy to rate as you say, or they are too lazy to do so. They are not much on documentation.

 

[J_J]

My relief valves are located close to the left rear wheel . My relief block assembly looks like an aluminum block with hoses coming in and out. The relief valves used by PT are screw in cartridges. They can be taken out and set with a hydraulic test set, or hydraulic shop, or you can do it your self with a gage plumbed in the circuit. The setup is real simple to make. Insert a tee fitting in the circuit and install a female quick disconnect. On the gage, screw on the male part of the quick disconnect. I would recommend liquid filled gages. Just plug it in the circuit you need to check. I leave my gage plugged in all the time. You could do this for all three circuits, and you can then do most all your hydraulic trouble shooting.

 

[RegL]

My relief valves are located close to the left rear wheel . My relief block assembly looks like an aluminum block with hoses coming in and out. The relief valves used by PT are screw in cartridges. They can be taken out and set with a hydraulic test set, or hydraulic shop, or you can do it your self with a gage plumbed in the circuit. The setup is real simple to make. Insert a tee fitting in the circuit and install a female quick disconnect. On the gage, screw on the male part of the quick disconnect. I would recommend liquid filled gages. Just plug it in the circuit you need to check. I leave my gage plugged in all the time. You could do this for all three circuits, and you can then do most all your hydraulic trouble shooting.

Thanks. Found them right where you said they would be.

 

[BobRip]

I went over to a neighbors house to move some dirt. It was in a pile and very wet. I attached the 4 in 1 bucket with Markham tooth bar, but I forgot to put on weights. I did the PT pucker about 4 times and gave up. That's the last time I will try to dig without weights. I made a new weight holder that is shorter than the old weight box so it takes less room in my garage. I welded a Kubotoa 55 pound weigth to a 2 inch receiver tube and put it in the two inch receiver in the back. I left the tube about two inches longer than the back of the weight so I can put my other weight on if needed. See attached picture. I will probably weld an angle iron across the end to support the 2nd weight. I do not want to pick up a unit with two weights.

 

[Gravy]

Bob,

You probably know this, but if those weights are cast iron, watch out for cracking right next to the weld. DAMHIK(Don't Ask Me How I Know). I bet one of those weights falling on your foot might make an owwie...

Gravy

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

You probably know this, but if those weights are cast iron, watch out for cracking right next to the weld. DAMHIK(Don't Ask Me How I Know). I bet one of those weights falling on your foot might make an owwie...

Gravy

I did not know that. It was a little difficult to weld and I had to put a lot of heat on it. Maybe I should weld some steel around it. Do you have any suggestions on how to weld such a material?

 

[J_J]

On welding cast iron. I believe that you have to heat up the cast iron with a torch before you start welding. I don't know the correct temp. You could just bore some holes in it and bolt on some plates.

I know they heat up engine blocks before they weld

 

[Charlesaf3]

Perhaps you were told that the rating is at the attachment point. That is the only way a tractor could have a single rating as I understand it. This is because each attachment has a different weight and the effective point of the load differs (it is much further out with the mini-hoe than with a bucket). If the lifting capacity were listed at other than the attachment point PT (and any other manufacturer for that matter) would have to publish a table of lifting capacity--with the small bucket = xxx, with the large bucket = yyy, with the mini-hoe =zzz, etc.

Isn't the standard the weight that can be lifted 500 mm out from the attachment point, and the attachment weight has to be subtracted from that?

On my b3030, I haven't put the rear wheels in the air. Have come across situations where the bucket wouldn't lift while digging. The hydraulic relief gave. Not sure if that will be helpful. It certainly seems reasonable to me that a Powertrac would need weight in the rear, but I'm coming at that from a CUT perspective - never owned a PT, but I think they look neat and I sure would love to play with one.