Snow Snow blade options

[SpringHollow]

I need to get a blade for my Power Trac to plow snow with on my gravel driveway. My only experience has been back blades, loader buckets, and loader mounted spring-trip snow blades. While buckets work, a wide loader mounted Curtis blade has worked real well with my conventional tractor for my snow removal needs. I hated using a rear blade - it definitely bothers my neck to look back all of the time and the back blade does not work well in deep snows.

It seems like I have 3 options on a Power Trac for a loader mounted blade:

1.) Power Trac's snow/dozer blade

2.) Power Trac's snow/dozer blade with rubber edge

3.) Curtis type snow blade with trip-springs like I have been using.

The trip springs currently cut back on the amount of jarring I and my CUT currently receive when I hit a chunk of ice, etc. For those using Power Trac's blade, is this jarring significant on a blade with no springs? FYI, I tend to drive relatively slow when plowing even though I know momentum is a wonderful thing for removing obstacles.

For those using a rubber edge (which would help cut down on some of the jarring), does it remove much snow/ice that has been compacted onto the driveway? A metal edge certainly has some ability to cut into the hard stuff. With a Curtis plow, I adjust the shoes and tilt in order to get the level of aggressiveness that I need at the time while minimizing the amount of digging in to the dirt.

Thanks for your help.

Ken

 

[ddonnell]

I also have the Curtis loader plow and love it. Finally got to use it today.

Have you thought about welding a PT attachment plate to the rear frame of your Curtis? I would think that some 1/4" gussets top and bottom would give it adequate strength. Seems like you'd have the best of both worlds. Aux. hydraulics would angle the blade.

 

[SpringHollow]

My brother is getting my Ford 2120 so I am letting the plow go with it since he would need one any ways and this is already set up for the 2120. I added the auxiliary hydraulics to it and use the rear hydraulic remotes to control the angle. That makes it very nice for plowing. I am surprised everyone does not mount them on their loader especially if they have a quick attach FEL which I do not. Today was my first time plowing this year but in previous years, I have used it to pile up snow into huge piles - something one can not do with a frame mounted plow.

One option I am considering is another Curtis plow (option 3). This is more expensive than a Power Trac plow that does not have springs so I wanted to see what other people thought about the various options.

 

[MossRoad]

I have a paved driveway, a crushed limestone parking area, and about 50 yards of grass path that I plow. I also have the PT power angle snow blade. It was $450.00 when I bought it. Worth every penny. I drop the edge of the blade directly on the asphalt in float and charge ahead. I've hit the frozen grass a couple times at full speed and it is quite the jolt. However, nothing has ever broken or bent. At worst, the tilt seat tilts forward and you move into the steering wheel a bit. Then you slow down for a while. The limestone tends to get pulled up by wet snow. After the limestone has a packed base, however, it is not much of a problem. So, usually in the grass and limestone, I tilt the blade back about two inches and let it ride on the guage wheels. It works fine and leaves just two inches of snow. If a car or truck or person can't get through 2" of snow, they shouldn't be out there.

 

[ddonnell]

ksimolo,

There seem to be a multitude of used spring tripped plows for sale that come off trucks etc.(Curtis, Western and others). As long as you find one with working hydraulics and the right width, I wouldn't think it would take too much to modify the mounting arrangement to work with a PT plate. And probably for a lot less than laying down 2K+ for a new Curtis loader plow. Shorten down the existing frame attachment assembly to get the plow as close as possible to the PT and add an attachment plate with some bracing.

 

[DavidVT]

I sent an old plow truck to the salvage yard but kept my plow and the mounting bracket from the truck frame.

I bought a quick attach plate for my FEL and welded the trucks mounting bracket to it. If you don't weld, both parts are not heavy and can be brought to a commercial welder without much trouble. You will also need a hook at the top of the plate for the plow's lift chain.

I put some money in the plow swing hydraulics by adding a third spool to my loader. There are many ways to do this if you are a DIY'r.

I have not yet done it, but I recommend getting the plow frame shortened up. The 7' plow way out on that standard plow frame can lift my back wheels (L3430) off the ground if I try to stop the FEL's drop in mid air while letting the blade down.

Move's snow great! Make sure you make the plow's hydraulic hoses long enough allow you to curl the plow down to push yourself out of jams. My first attempt had short hoses.. very messy indeed!!

AS WITH ANY project (DIY or otherwise), watch out for safety first and foremost!!
As an example, BEWARE the non-trivial potential to lift the FEL and plowframe so high that the plow can flip over and hit you. If you don't plan for that possibility, watch out. Just consider pulling back on the FEL control while you turn your head and watch yourself backup. It would not be hard to get all that mass up high where it can flip over and maybe hurt you or worse!

 

[kjm3232]

We have the power trac blade without the rubber edge. This week was the 1st time we really used it. It did a very good on getting the snow off of our paved driveway. We went slow so didn't get much jolting when we went into the ground after pushing the snow off the driveway. It was even good at pushing and lifting snow farther back that was already stacked off on the side of the driveway. The UPS driver was impressed with it as well. He was stuck in my sister-in-laws driveway last nite and i used the blade to push as much snow out of the way as possible. Unfortunately, he was too far stuck in the gutter off of the side of her driveway and he had to use our phone to call for a tow truck to get him out.

 

[Arnie_T]

I have a stock pt425 with Turf tires and find moving snow quite easy. I live in the great Tug Hill region of NY--and as you have likely heard--we have had a bit of snow over the past week or so.(87.1 inches) I have the snow/dozer blade with the steel cutter edge-- Instead of the bogie wheels on the plow I welded 3 ears to a 3/4 inch steel pipe that is bolted to the cutter plate holes ( one each end and in the middle) The pipe is the full length of the blade. The round edge rides over all irregularities and does not dig up the lawn if you are careful. The 4 in one bucket is also helpfull in moving the piles--and creating new paths where I had not been before. The pt425 is much more maneuverable than my F-150 and plow gets the job done quicker than the truck and never got stuck . Quite satisfied I made the purchase.

 

[pajoube]

I have a stock pt425 with Turf tires and find moving snow quite easy. I live in the great Tug Hill region of NY--and as you have likely heard--we have had a bit of snow over the past week or so.(87.1 inches) I have the snow/dozer blade with the steel cutter edge-- Instead of the bogie wheels on the plow I welded 3 ears to a 3/4 inch steel pipe that is bolted to the cutter plate holes ( one each end and in the middle) The pipe is the full length of the blade. The round edge rides over all irregularities and does not dig up the lawn if you are careful. The 4 in one bucket is also helpfull in moving the piles--and creating new paths where I had not been before. The pt425 is much more maneuverable than my F-150 and plow gets the job done quicker than the truck and never got stuck . Quite satisfied I made the purchase.

Can you get a picture of the skids?
PJ

 

[Arnie_T]

Not sure these images will work.
Next time will use 1 inch or bigger pipe for better radius--that's all I had-- but it works.
Basic process is to set all parts with clamps and duct tape-- tack weld ears to pipe--remove and final weld--put back on blade--mark holes--remove and drill holes--- install--and go