Trenchers?

[Barryh]

Originally Posted by J_J

I think Bob carved out his pond with a chain trencher, if I remember right. However, either one will chew up the ground or loosen the soil.

Yes, the stump cutter will work very well as a shallow trencher. You should be able to trench about 8 in deep. The wheeled trenchers will trench to about 12 in. Of course, if it is used in rocky soil, you can expect the teeth to wear more. You could make your self a nice trencher, by using a similar hyd motor, a hub to fit the shaft, a 30 in diameter disk, just drill the disk for the bolt on stump cutter teeth or trencher teeth. Put this together, with a quick attach plate, and you have a trencher.

Sounds good thanks.

[BobRip]

Originally Posted by J_J

I think Bob carved out his pond with a chain trencher, if I remember right. However, either one will chew up the ground or loosen the soil.

Yes, the stump cutter will work very well as a shallow trencher. You should be able to trench about 8 in deep. The wheeled trenchers will trench to about 12 in. Of course, if it is used in rocky soil, you can expect the teeth to wear more. You could make your self a nice trencher, by using a similar hyd motor, a hub to fit the shaft, a 30 in diameter disk, just drill the disk for the bolt on stump cutter teeth or trencher teeth. Put this together, with a quick attach plate, and you have a trencher.

I did kind of carve out the pond with the trencher. It breaks up the soil and acts as a conveyor to pull the soil out. This was a very small pond (20 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep). The trencher is good at breaking up soil and then typically you can use a bucket to move the soil. I think the stump grinder would do this, but 8 inches is not very deep. The beauty of the PT is that you can change attachments every few minutes and still be very productive. Perhaps one attachment will be very slow on a given project, but combining two can make a project go very quickly.

[Barryh]

Originally Posted by BobRip

I did kind of carve out the pond with the trencher. It breaks up the soil and acts as a conveyor to pull the soil out. This was a very small pond (20 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep). The trencher is good at breaking up soil and then typically you can use a bucket to move the soil. I think the stump grinder would do this, but 8 inches is not very deep. The beauty of the PT is that you can change attachments every few minutes and still be very productive. Perhaps one attachment will be very slow on a given project, but combining two can make a project go very quickly.

Bob good idea, those are my thoughts too, use the tree stump grinder to cut in and around then scoop out the loose soil with my small bucket, and use other attachments / including any home made stuff. Which will be my first priority now. To find a welder and make some custom digging tools to use with my hitch adapter / tubing. Appreciate your input.

[BobRip]

Originally Posted by Barryh

Bob good idea, those are my thoughts too, use the tree stump grinder to cut in and around then scoop out the loose soil with my small bucket, and use other attachments / including any home made stuff. Which will be my first priority now. To find a welder and make some custom digging tools to use with my hitch adapter / tubing. Appreciate your input.

Some people have used the potato plow to break up soil. This is must cheaper initially and much less maintenance. I think it actually might work better than the stump grinder for soil break up. I have not done this much since I do have the trencher.

[AltavistaLawn]

Originally Posted by JD-Beach

The vast majority of landscape folks around here use a vibratory plow to install underground piping. It goes in fast, in one step, without tearing up the surface a great deal. The only digging that is needed is a foot or so at the pipe intersections and at the sprinkler heads. With the weather conditions here the pipe does not need to be too deep. Toro - Professional Contractor Compact Utility Attachments

We're just getting into irrigation. I'm in the air between a vibratory plow or a wheel trencher for the 1850.

You guys that do irrigation, what do you suggest?

[J_J]

Originally Posted by AltavistaLawn

We're just getting into irrigation. I'm in the air between a vibratory plow or a wheel trencher for the 1850.

You guys that do irrigation, what do you suggest?

I have both, it is just a matter of choice for the differeent jobs.

[SGBotsford]

Originally Posted by BAGTIC

I would like to lay a lot of irrigation pipe in the orchard and pastures. Leaving them on top of the ground results in too much damage from the tractor, cows, and mowers.

I've been laying 1.5 inch pipe at my tree farm in what I call 'surface flush' I try to keep it just barely visible. In practice I have a black dotted line to remind me where it is. This way I can spot leaks, and the ice plugs thaw when the ground thaws.

What I've been doing is use a single chisel. The downside of this is that it makes a rough trench becuase it tears the sod.

I want to make a trencher for this using a couple of coulters from a 3 bottom plough ahead of the chisel. That way the edges would be neater.

For smaller line a pair of disks mounted so the front edges touch might just open up enough to stuff the pipe in.

Or run a furrow opener 2 inches down. I suspect that the sod might just flop back.

For a real trench, would it work to take something like 1/4 of a round of 36" diameter pipe. and bolt it onto a blade. You overlapp 6" onto the blade, then the bottom of the arc would be about a foot below the blade. First pass is about an inch down, to cut the sod in half. After that each pass takes about 2-3 inches. When it starts getting deep the blade spreads the spoils a bit. (Or you take off the blade if you want the spoils in windrows on either side.

Again, with this one it would do a neater job if you put coulters in front of it. Trouble is, that you either have to use big coulters, or you have to remove the coulters after the first couple passes. PITA.

A more general purpose solution would be to use something like a tool bar cultivator as the frame. Mount the scoop on a pair of the chisel/sweep mounting springs. Mount coulters the same way. (The TBC I have has two types of spring -- one with 2 turns which puts the chisel point in front of the bar, and one with 2.5 turns with chisels about 2 feet further back.)

With everything spring mounted the consequences of scooping the edge of a mother rock aren't quite as bone jarring.

Haven't *DONE* any of this. (except for the first thing) Just thinking out loud.

[BAGTIC]

I have discovered that breaking up the crust with the potato plaw first makes the rotor tiller work MUCH FASTER. I have gravelly loam.


Has anyone tried using the wheel trencher to grind down tree stumps?


The wheel trencher would have been much more useful if it had been offset to one side like the lawn edger. As it is it is impossible to cut a trench really close to an existing fence or structure.