Re: Who has a Tiller Atatchment, Opinions?

**woodlandfarms** · 03-22-2007, 03:43 PM

Box Blade. On a normal 3pt you can adjust the shackle to tilt the boxblade. good for first drafts on roads and such... But all 3pt adapters I looked at, and most of the powertrac toys, do not seem to have tilt built in. Someone was going to try and make a PT adapter with a tire rim to create tilt. Never heard if that happened...

Anyway, it is to tilt the box blade. Lackendar added a couple of attachment point above and below the level point to allow angle work...

**MossRoad** · 03-22-2007, 04:11 PM

O.K. You want to tilt it side to side for things like crowning a drive, etc.... I got it.

**J_J** · 03-22-2007, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by AltavistaLawn

I think the tiller is designed to be pulled backwards.

It works either way. You are cutting the soil with the sharp edge

**bbabineau** · 06-16-2007, 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by woodlandfarms

AltaVista

Ken and I ordered our 3pt from Lackenders. He put into his rig an adjuster so that we could tilt the box blade angle. It is remedial, and I have yet to see it and see if it works. Ken will have his sooner than me...

Anyway, just a thought.

Carl

Can anyone post a picture of the Lackender adapter got 3 point implements. I contacted them and if they supply the plate, the price is almost 1K delivered. Seems quite high to me and wonder what it looks like for that amount of cash.

**woodlandfarms** · 06-16-2007, 07:08 PM

Here are some pix. They are not very good and I am not at the tractor until the end of the month... I am sure Ken will get you better pix before I get to...

That price quote has to be wrong, unless Steel has gone through the roof. I think mine was $425 plus $65 for the adapter plate... And cause i bought so much from him he reduced the price

**SpringHollow** · 06-16-2007, 10:29 PM

Unfortunately, I just dropped mine off a couple of hours ago to a local welder to have the attachment plate removed and the correct one put on at the correct angle. This was the first one Lackender made for this size tractor and he made a mistake when fabricating the plates. Fortunately, i caught the mistake before Woodland Farms had his shipped. A friend was going to weld mine but he has been recovering from knee surgery and having a rough time of it. I finally could not wait any longer so I gave it to the local welder. I have a couple more attachments that need to be corrected as well.

Ken

**BAGTIC** · 06-27-2007, 11:21 PM

Originally Posted by ernemats

I have a 48 inch tiller for my 422. It does good if you don't have many rocks. I have a lot of rocks fist sized to plate sized and the stones are constantly getting lodged between the tines and the housing. Itis easy to get them out usually just turn the power takeoff switch off and they fall out if that doesn't work just put down pressure on the tiller with switch off and back up a little, then just wait till you hit another rock and repeat the procedure. The bigger tiller might be different.

I have a 48 inch tiller on a PT425. I have rock problems too. It is made worse by PT's making the clearance between the tines and the housing closer on the outlet side than on the entrance side.

I have finally settled on the clearance technique of stopping the tiller then lifting it and rotating it upside down. I then bounce/jounce the arms a few times until I see the tines move freely. I was having to stop every 25-50 feet to clear the rocks by hand and I got tired of turning off the tractor, dismounting, clearing the rocks and starting up again.

I think the tiller works better if you connect the hydraulic hoses so the tines dig from the bottom up instead of conventionally top down. Land Pride makes BOTH kind of tillers and they recommend bottom up.

On Monday a friend showed me an old walk behind Sears tiller from an auction that digs bottom up. He says it is the best small walk behind he has ever used and he wouldn't go back to the conventional style for anything. When a tine catches a rock on the way up it tends to pop it out. When it hits a rock on the way down it tries to pound the rock downward through the hard base underneath.

**J_J** · 06-28-2007, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by BAGTIC

I have a 48 inch tiller on a PT. I have rock problems too. It is made worse by Pt's making the clearance between the tines and the housing closer on the outlet side than on the entrance side.

I have finally settled on the clearance technique of stopping the tiller then lifting it and rotating it upside down. I then bounce/jounce the arms a few times until I see the tines move freely. I was having to stop every 25-50 feet to clear the rocks by hand and I got tired of turning off the tractor, dismounting, clearing the rocks and starting up again.

I think the tiller works better if you connect the hydraulic hoses so the tines dig from the bottom up instead of conventionally top down. Land Pride makes BOTH kind of tillers and they recommend bottom up.

On Monday a friend showed me an old walk behind Sears tiller from an auction that digs bottom up. He says it is the best small walk behind he has ever used and he wouldn't go back to the conventional style for anything. When a tine catches a rock on the way up it tends to pop it out. When it hits a rock on the way down it tries to pound the rock downward through the hard base underneath.

For those of you that are having rock problems with the tiller, why not install a reversing valve and plug the tiller hoses into the new valve. In one position, the tiler runs normally. If it gets jammed, flip a switch, and it turns in reverse , and kicks the rocks out. Some people like to till in reverse anyway.

This will also work using the auger. If it gets jammed, reverse and pull out.

**hogi** · 07-02-2007, 05:02 PM

Originally Posted by J_J

For those of you that are having rock problems with the tiller, why not install a reversing valve and plug the tiller hoses into the new valve. In one position, the tiler runs normally. If it gets jammed, flip a switch, and it turns in reverse , and kicks the rocks out. Some people like to till in reverse anyway.

This will also work using the auger. If it gets jammed, reverse and pull out.

JJ, How would you plumb the valve? Could you add a link to the type of valve you are talking about? Could you use a motor control valve like this one: Surplus Center Item Detail on the supply side of a reversing valve, therefore being able to reverse and control the speed of any attached motor?

**J_J** · 07-02-2007, 07:40 PM

Originally Posted by hogi

JJ, How would you plumb the valve? Could you add a link to the type of valve you are talking about? Could you use a motor control valve like this one: Surplus Center Item Detail on the supply side of a reversing valve, therefore being able to reverse and control the speed of any attached motor?

The valve that you selected, is just a speed control for a one direction hyd motor.

If the tiller hydraulic motor is bi rotational, then you can plumb in the valve below. It will detent in three positions. All you really have to do is plumb the valve into the circuit for the PTO. Once installed, this is how it should work. The hydraulic lines for the tiller would be connected into the quick disconnects that are now on the selector valve. You then flip the switch for the the PTO, and the hyd fluid is sent to the new valve. In the neutral position the hyd fluid is routed back to tank. In the forward detent the tiller will till in the normal way. If it becomes jammed on a rock, just pull the valve handle back to neutral, and then pull the valve handle back to reverse the tiller.

Caution.

This maybe a safety issue some how. Pt might be worried about the tiller slinging debris back toward the operator.

One of the guys said that Terry said that the tiller motor was not reversible. If this is true, then there is no fix, except to replace the tiller hyd motor with a bi rotational hyd motor.

Surplus Center Item Detail

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