New to me... 2005 Ironhorse (Jinma) 284

   / New to me... 2005 Ironhorse (Jinma) 284 #1  

Reaney in NH

New member
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
20
Location
Newport, NH
Tractor
John Deere 420 Backhoe
Tractor is in great shape.. has 135 hours. Has the Jinma Loader installed. Most hours were using a brush hog... Loader looks like it was only used a cpl of times. I bought the pkg for $5500.00

1st question... Idle is either very high... 1600 rpm or so low it stalls. I tried to adjust what looks like the Throttle HIGH/LOW adjustment located where the throttle cable hooks to the pump and I can't seam to find the right speed. It seams like if I turn it back far enough to make even a small change it stalls or tries to. If I goose the throttle it will sometimes drop to around 700rpm for a moment then return to 1400-1600 rpm idle. I am thinking a governor control problem... anything I can do?

2nd Question... I know the Jinma Loader is not nearly as strong as the Koyker... But The Jinma is what I got. What can I do to make it stronger? I know the Koyker has a brace that goes fromn the loader frame to the Rear axle housing... the Jinma does not... Should I add one? Any thing else I should do?

3rd Question. I do not know any service history... Should I do the complete fluid flush like most of you recamend on the Jinma's? I can only assume the "Ironhorse" for the money they get for a new Tractor ($14K) I heard... they would prep then correctly.

Thats it for now... Thanks for the help
Reaney in NH
 
   / New to me... 2005 Ironhorse (Jinma) 284 #2  
Reaney in NH said:
Tractor is in great shape.. has 135 hours. Has the Jinma Loader installed. Most hours were using a brush hog... Loader looks like it was only used a cpl of times. I bought the pkg for $5500.00

1st question... Idle is either very high... 1600 rpm or so low it stalls. I tried to adjust what looks like the Throttle HIGH/LOW adjustment located where the throttle cable hooks to the pump and I can't seam to find the right speed. It seams like if I turn it back far enough to make even a small change it stalls or tries to. If I goose the throttle it will sometimes drop to around 700rpm for a moment then return to 1400-1600 rpm idle. I am thinking a governor control problem... anything I can do?

2nd Question... I know the Jinma Loader is not nearly as strong as the Koyker... But The Jinma is what I got. What can I do to make it stronger? I know the Koyker has a brace that goes fromn the loader frame to the Rear axle housing... the Jinma does not... Should I add one? Any thing else I should do?

3rd Question. I do not know any service history... Should I do the complete fluid flush like most of you recamend on the Jinma's? I can only assume the "Ironhorse" for the money they get for a new Tractor ($14K) I heard... they would prep then correctly.

Thats it for now... Thanks for the help
Reaney in NH

Hi
Sounds like a pretty good deal. I'll take a run at your questions:

1. Idle(lowest throttle position) should be 900 RPM. I forget what the two adjustments on the injector pump do right off the top of my head, I will have to look at my notes when I get home. Silly question first though, is the throttle linkage(hand and foot) allowing the throttle actuator on the injector pump to go all the way home(idle) position. Quick check is to disconnect it at the injector pump and see how it idles with the pump lever all the way home.

2. I think the chinese loader is plenty strong for this tractor, which as you are indicating could be a problem. Have there been tractors broke in two? Yes, but that is true of all makes, not just the chinese. It also does not appear to be very common. Not knowing the EXACT circumstances of these failures make it impossible to determine if weakness or abuse was the cause. Will additional framework between loader subframe and tractor rear end help reduce stress? It sure will, and multiple load paths are always desireable. It surely won't hurt anything and there is a lot to be said for peace of mind. IMO, for normal/residential use, with hydraulics set to correct pressures, I think you will be far more likley to experience front end problems on a 200 series with FEL, than to crack the tractor in two.

3. Don't know the service history? When in doubt, flush it out... You then have no doubt as to what is in there and you can start a known history from that point on. If you search back in this forum, you will find a wealth of info and differing opinions on this. From past experiences, I personally went along with Greg G's approach of flushing everything with Kerosene. I went the extra step of removing transmission and creeper covers to suck out the last little bit of kero that wouldn't drain out(also a good opportunity to inspect geartrain). I also supported the FEL with engine hoist and cycled cylinders to purge as much kero as possible. It will evap on it's own if you don't care to do this, just watch the fluid levels. Comes back to that peace of mind thing I mentioned earlier. It also gives you a good opportunity to drag a wrench and sockets over all the fittings and hardware to make sure they are tight. It is a diesel, it rattles and if you don't take a wrench to it, parts WILL fall off:)

Enjoy your new toy... I mean tool.
 
   / New to me... 2005 Ironhorse (Jinma) 284
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Hi Ron,
Thank you for the response. On the idle problem. Yes, the lever is returning to the stop. As I turn the screw the lever returns with it... I turn it prolly close to half turn or more before the idle changes at all.. then its drops to nothing and stalls.... Its almost as if the Governor wieghts are sticking... but I don't know enough about this thing yet... but I will. LOL

Thanks for the info.
Reaney in NH
 
 
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