Wiring gurus... a question about wiring factory work lamps

[bxowner]

My 2320 was delivered last night. I bought the pair of front-mount work lamps and had the dealer install with the new tractor. As many of you have posted (archives search), I don't like the all-or-nothing aspect of having them wired through the headlamp switch. In fact, the switch does not appear to be properly wired (according to the owner's manual, the 4-way is supposed to go 'off-hazard-headlights-headlights&hazards&worklamp'... mine goes 'off-hazards-headlights&worklamps-headlights&hazards'). Adding to the issue, I'd like to wire a Hella dual-beam rear work lamp (as I've done on countless trucks) on an independent switch and fused wiring harness.

My questions are #1 - are all Deere switches now in the physical shape of the turn signal switch? If so, I have no use for turn signals and would just assume replace the switch with a 3-position so that I can independently wire front and rear lamps. But I'd like the factory-shaped switch. Any suggestions about which 3-position switch to ask for at the dealer parts desk (i.e. "get yourself the hydraulic diverter switch from a 4720"). I assume these switches are quite expensive...

Question #2 - any reason I can't just use the turn signal switch? Push it left for forward work lights, right for rear?

Question #3 - is it me or is the location of the lamps annoying? It seems to reflect right into my eyes, making it even harder to see than with them turned off. Has anyone moved them to a better location?

Observation #1 - the lamps are the same units as those on my Toro snowblower.

Conclusion (for now) #1 - I may just turn them around and use them as rear lamps...

Admission #1 - it's not in my nature to 'just turn them around and use them as rear lamps...' I'm not going to be happy until I've fiddled with them.

Admission #2 - they'll probably break during the fiddling process.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

 

[kennyd]

I personally would not rewire or replace the turn signal switch. I like to keep the factory wiring in place as much as possible.

When adding my lights, I chose to mount them high on the ROPS to help keep the glare to a minimum. There are may threads on making brackets or clamps to attach to the ROPS, or some chose to drill small holes in it to mount then as I did-this is a heated topic here!

I used sealed switches from a marine supply store for mine, but there is a JD switch from the gator's I think that others have used. Search post's by "bloomingtonmike" I think for the part #.

I f you are adding 4 new lights, I seriously suggest that you do NOT wire them through the headlight switch, but rather run a new 30amp circuit on a relay from the battery.

HERE are pictures of my install...

 

[bxowner]

Thanks for the leads.

With regard to using the turn signal switch, I used it on my Kubota and it worked beautifully. I simply pulled the factory harness off from the switch and shrink wrapped it... when I sold the tractor, I pulled out my dedicated (relayed) wiring harness and reconnected the factory turn signal harness to the switch. I totally agree about retaining the factory harness.

I haven't looked yet (it's in the teens and quite blustery outside now), but I question whether the turn signal completes the circuit on a John Deere. It didn't on the Kubota, allowing me to use the switch.

 

[kennyd]

I belive the TS switch is just a DPDT switch (ON-OFF-ON) but not 100% sure. Please let us know when you find out...