Help with 1845

[ernemats]

I just purchased a 1845 slope mower (1996 model with 3 point attachment instead of the quick attach) . My questions for others with an 1845
1. What air pressure do you use in the 8 tires? Mine are 6 ply r-1 tread with the recommended max pressure of 50 lbs. currently 40 lbs in them.
2. After running for 30 minutes or more mowing the temperature gauge reads almost the max. of 240 degrees, I have blown out and hosed out the cooling fins and it still gets about as hot, any suggestions or comments?
3. After running it if you shut it off it will not start for several hours unless you use a battery charger set at high voltage then it starts ok. I had the battery load tested at NAPA and they said it was good. Connections seem ok. The volt meter starts out around 13 volts and after running a while it drops to about 11

 

[cqaigy2]

Went thru a similar starting issue with my Dad's piece of Craftsman mower just the other day. I was measuring voltages with one of the probes attached to a fin on the motor. Things looked ok, battery tested ok, charging voltage pretty good at 14volts. Put it all together and it started no problem.

Two weeks later "tractor" doesn't start, so back to basics and cleaned clean looking connectors on the battery and cables with sand paper and it's been working just fine for two months now. I believe there was a bit of voltage drop across the connector on the negative side.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have an 1850, newer model.... So take this with a grain of salt.

1 - I was told to run the inside tires at no greater than 12, and the outside at 8 for severe slope mowing. Right now my severist slope is 30 degrees that I can handle and I slide a bit. I guess I need to reduce the pressure as I am running 12 on all tires. But, by reducing the pressure you are opening a can of worms if you are working in brush or that sort of stuff....

2 and 3 may be inter related. Your overheating issue may or may not be an issue. First you should confirm engine temp by another method. Lots of people like using a infrared thermometer. I tend to believe you are over heating. Your cooling fins need to be WASHED, and you are cleaning the cooling fins on the engine, not the cooler in the hood, right? You are removing the front cover off the engine and blowing that out as well, right? It is possible that over the years your cooling radiator on the engine has sludged up. You might have some luck with running an oil cleaner / sludge remover and see if that improves your situation. You can remove the oil cooler off the engine and blow it out, but you may want some spare tubes to run back and forth to the engine.

Other people will know if the Deutz has a high temp engine oil kill switch. I think mine does as I have been stranded on a slope a few times... It also may be a low oil sensor (you sure you have enough oil).

I do not mean to be condescending in any of this, I only ask what I do cause it has always been the simple things that have bit me bad with my PT....

 

[Bob999]

I just purchased a 1845 slope mower (1996 model with 3 point attachment instead of the quick attach) . My questions for others with an 1845
1. What air pressure do you use in the 8 tires? Mine are 6 ply r-1 tread with the recommended max pressure of 50 lbs. currently 40 lbs in them.
2. After running for 30 minutes or more mowing the temperature gauge reads almost the max. of 240 degrees, I have blown out and hosed out the cooling fins and it still gets about as hot, any suggestions or comments?
3. After running it if you shut it off it will not start for several hours unless you use a battery charger set at high voltage then it starts ok. I had the battery load tested at NAPA and they said it was good. Connections seem ok. The volt meter starts out around 13 volts and after running a while it drops to about 11

1. I run 6 ply turf tires at 7 lbs. The manual that came with my tractor suggests 5-6 lbs for best traction.
2. Only suggestions I have is to check with a light to ensure the coil is clear and if it is clear check the belt on the alternator to ensure that it is not slipping (the fan that provides the air for the radiator is on the alternator).
3. I had a similar starting problem and the problem turned out to be in a junction box in the rear. PT uses a multi wired cable to connect between the instrument panel and the engine and the connection on each end is to a connector block. the wires were cut a little short in the rear and when I found the problem there were only a couple of strands still unbroken of the 2 wires that carry battery current from the ignition switch to the rear connector box--and which have to power the fan when you are trying to start hot. So my diagnosis was that when trying to start hot the fan would draw enough current through this diminished connection that the starter solenoid would not pull in. As soon as I repaired the connection the problem was resolved. I think that installation of a relay--to avoid full fan current being drawn through the start switch during hot starts-- is advisable.

The voltages you are seeing are too low. Charging voltages should be 14+ to start out tapering to perhaps 13.8 once the battery is warm and fully charged. The same cable harness (a 14 wire cable I think) I mentioned above carries the voltage signal from the rear to the instrument panel and a bad connection at either end or a bad wire could give a bad reading. Check the voltages at the battery with a know good meter--if they are different the problem is in the wiring or the meter on the PT.

 

[marrt]

The starting problem is caused by the voltage being too low at the starter solenoid (for example, if the fan has run a while when you shut off the tractor and the battery is drained a bit). This is a common problem on earlier 1845's and PT sells a "kit" to fix it. It's been discussed here before and you can probably find a picture. Otherwise, I can try to post one.

Overheating is another common problem. I built a screened "cage" around the rear of my 1845 with double screen. Also screened the entire engine compartment. This made a HUGE help and I haven't needed to blow out the cooler since. Otherwise, it needed to be cleaned at least every other mow (3 acres of grass) sometimes more in the spring or dry conditions.

 

[ernemats]

Thanks for the advice all of you. Today I cleaned the battery terminals and ground , it seemed to help with the voltage meter reading a little bit higher than before. I also used some simple green cleaner and cleaned and hosed out the cooler fins of the engine and hydraulic cooler. I had previously blown out both with compressed air and water. A lot more dirt came out and it seemed that it ran a little cooler, but still about 3/4 way up on the temp. gauge. I will keep trying other suggestions.

 

[woodlandfarms]

3/4 up is normal. 220 is high normal. ( I think this, it is 11PM and I am not going to go outside and check).

 

[Bob999]

My experience with operating temperature is that on a cool day and a clean oil radiator I operate at about 200F. On a hot day and a clean radiator I operate at about 210F. Generally I clean the radiator when the temperature reaches 220. The Duetz operation manual for the F3M 1011F engine specifies a maximum oil terperature in the oil sump of 130C--approximately 266F if I have done the conversion correctly.

 

[ernemats]

I think some of your ideas helped. A good cleaning of the cooling fins helped . the high temperature issue and cleaning the battery terminals and ground connectors seems to make the volt meter read higher. Now another question the brake tender will not pump up by hand over 500 psi and it should go up to 2,000psi to adjust brakes. When running with the brake tender off the psi varries from about 800 to 1,800 psi which Terry said it should run. Terry thinks either a brake hose leak or the accumilator needs charged. I can not find any leaks in the brake lines, has anyone any experience getting accumilator charged?

 

[duane]

Ernie,

Do you still have your PT422. I think you lead the pack with the number of hours on that machine.