1952 ford 8N restoration

[Soundguy]

I'm restoring a '52 ford 8N. This will be my first tractor restoration. Any tips and/or tricks.

I've ordered my replacement parts from www.just8ns.com and am having a machineist make one part for me. Mostly it will be a sheetmetal / paint / rubber replacement, as the motor runs decent enough for now not to tear down.

Soundguy

 

[professor]

Look for oil leaks in the rear wheel seals. The old Fords were bad to leak at these seals. This looks messy especially if you show it. If you plan to use a rotary cutter(bush Hog) be sure to put an overriding clutch on your pto.

 

[Kodiak]

I would suggest you completely rewire it. The insulation was prone to crack and split all the time on the older models. And a radiator pressure test isn't a bad idea.

 

[Steve_in_Ont]

Also, check out:

http://www.n-complete.com/default.htm

They might be able to help...

 

[Soundguy]

Luckilly enough, I can find no leaks anywhere. Not even pto, etc. I especially scrutinized the wheel bearing areas and looked for leaks and side to side 'rocking' play.

I did have to replace all 4 of the tie rod end 'greae cup' seals.
Luckilly ( again), even with the bad seals, the previous owner kept the grease to it heavy, and the tie rod ends looked excelent.

I had a bit of a time putting a new breather tube on it.. had to loosen the exhaust a bit to manuver in there.

I'm taking pictures as I go.
I had to make a quick run to the local harbor freight tools and pick up a bunch of cheap..er inexpensive tools i didn't have, to start this work.... But heck.. for 50 bucks i got a decent set of 1" and up soctets/breaker bar, tie rod end tools, nut chissels, and a big cresent wrench....

Soundguy

<font color=red>Look for oil leaks in the rear wheel seals. The old Fords were bad to leak at these seals. This looks messy especially if you show it. If you plan to use a rotary cutter(bush Hog) be sure to put an overriding clutch on your pto.

 

[Soundguy]

hehehe.. you must have seen my tractor already. There were 2 original cloth wires on it, and the rest were a hodgepodge twisted together electrical taped mess.. some weren't even stranded wired.. they were ac type wire.. like 10-2 . The worst one was the wire to the starter button.. it was mostly bare in 5-6 spots... yikes..
I'm keeping the electrical system 6v, and having hte generator and regulator checked out, and have a new ammeter for it. I also got a new wiring harness, and it will accomodate the lighting, etc.

Soundguy

<font color=red>I would suggest you completely rewire it. The insulation was prone to crack and split all the time on the older models. And a radiator pressure test isn't a bad idea.

 

[cj7]

Post us somw pics!

I used to have a 53, Liked it alot lots of fun. I needed more power. Bought a IH574. Then I needed a small loader and tractor. I have a L2500 now.

The 8N had the most character!

 

[Soundguy]

OK, As of now, I've just had 2 days to tear into the machine. I've replaced the breather tube, front and rear tie rod ends grease seals, non oem radiator cap, ammeter, and various leaking grease fittings, and the transmisson shifter boot ( very difficult with greasy hands! ). I have sent the generator and regulator to the shop for testing, and have removed the front rivited style bumper to repair some dings/dents.

Here is a pic of the 'dead' parts. Notice the starter button wire on the left.... it is frayed right where it passes through the sheet metal and gromet.. yikes!

Soundguy



<font color=red>Post us somw pics!

 

[Soundguy]

And here is a pic of the machine as i got her a few weeks ago.... Biggest problem is charging system, and the paint was BRUSHED on.

Soundguy

 

[cj7]

That is a fine looking piece.