...we are still searching for an operators manual on this unit...soooo, can anyone talk me down on how to set the timing (are there timing marks anywhere ?) -- particularly: what position should the "plunger crank" be in for timing
14t baler timing (plunger crank position)
- Thread starter buffie
- Start date
Thre are no timing marks on this equipment. But, here goes. You will need to know the names of the parts involved.
Turn the flywheel ccw to move the plungerhead on the compression stroke to a point where the face of the plungerhead is in the center of the front feeder slot in the bale case.
Locate the left hand edge of the the feeder tooth 17 5/8" (measured horizontally) from the extreme left-hand top of the feeder support. Use a block of wood to hold the teeth in this position. Place it between the teeth and the feeder support bracket. Now connect the main drive chain and tighten the chain with thumb pressure on the idler sprocket.
With needles in home position, trip the knotter using the measuring wheel and then rotate the clutch ring CCW (as viewed facing the LHS of the baler) until the lug on the the inside of the clutch ring contacts the trip dog roller. Now put on the knotter drive chain. If the teeth don't exactly line up, back the clutch ring away from the roller until you can get it on.
If you get it right, the needle timing will be good when the tip of the needles has risen flush with the top edge of the bale case bottom grooves. At this point, there should be 1 to 2 1/4" between the face of the plungerhead and the center of the rounded portion of the tip of the needle. Better if closer to the 1" reading.
You may have to adjust the length of the needle lift link if these dimensions are impossible to achieve.
Put the shields and covers back on. Run it thru by hand a few times (including the knotter trip) with the twine removed and the bale case empty to make sure it all cycles properly. Other wise, there's gonna be some noises (at about $300 per clunk).
By any means get a manual you can see the pictures really well and read the full text. I put a video on Youtube in slow speed to show its cycling. Look for it by searching for "baler knotter"
Turn the flywheel ccw to move the plungerhead on the compression stroke to a point where the face of the plungerhead is in the center of the front feeder slot in the bale case.
Locate the left hand edge of the the feeder tooth 17 5/8" (measured horizontally) from the extreme left-hand top of the feeder support. Use a block of wood to hold the teeth in this position. Place it between the teeth and the feeder support bracket. Now connect the main drive chain and tighten the chain with thumb pressure on the idler sprocket.
With needles in home position, trip the knotter using the measuring wheel and then rotate the clutch ring CCW (as viewed facing the LHS of the baler) until the lug on the the inside of the clutch ring contacts the trip dog roller. Now put on the knotter drive chain. If the teeth don't exactly line up, back the clutch ring away from the roller until you can get it on.
If you get it right, the needle timing will be good when the tip of the needles has risen flush with the top edge of the bale case bottom grooves. At this point, there should be 1 to 2 1/4" between the face of the plungerhead and the center of the rounded portion of the tip of the needle. Better if closer to the 1" reading.
You may have to adjust the length of the needle lift link if these dimensions are impossible to achieve.
Put the shields and covers back on. Run it thru by hand a few times (including the knotter trip) with the twine removed and the bale case empty to make sure it all cycles properly. Other wise, there's gonna be some noises (at about $300 per clunk).
By any means get a manual you can see the pictures really well and read the full text. I put a video on Youtube in slow speed to show its cycling. Look for it by searching for "baler knotter"
parkfamily
New member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2010
- Messages
- 2
- Tractor
- John Deere
Your information was really helpful. I got my baler timed. And that is working good, but now I have another problem. I am wondering if you can help me out. (It is now raining on my hay! DANG.)
When the measuring wheel drops and calls for the needles, the needle bar drops about 2 inches and releases the thing that breaks the shear pin on the fly wheel. Is there a way to adjust that?
When the measuring wheel drops and calls for the needles, the needle bar drops about 2 inches and releases the thing that breaks the shear pin on the fly wheel. Is there a way to adjust that?
The thing that breaks the shear pin is doing it's job. Either your timing is still off or the needle brake is too loose. Is the plunger head face further than 2 inches from the tip of the needles? If it is, then jump the timing chain one notch to see if it improves. Try tripping the needles by hand and turn over the flywheel by hand untill the needles are about half way through their cycle. Then grab the needle frame and try to pull it. It should take about 40 lbs of force to move the needles. They should never drift by themselves. If it is less than that, tighten the needle brake.