Slowing down tractor with non hydro transmission

[canoetrpr]

I apologize if this is is a basic question but as some of you know I am strongly considering a Kubota M series with the hydraulic shuttle.

When I am out bush hogging with a tractor that is non hydro and have my PTO going with the engine speed set appropriately for PTO 540 RPMs, when I come to the end of my field and have to execute a turn, what is the right way for me to slow the tractor down for the turn?

With a hydro, I just let up on the pedal as it does not affect my engine speed.

With a manual transmission like my MF 255 or a tractor with a hydraulic shuttle do I just step on the brakes as I would for a car that is in DRIVE? I can use the steering brake I imagine or do I shift into a lower gear to slow the speed?

 

[dennis52]

A couple of things gratefully I picked up from other members:

Slow down the revs on your hand throttle and use your foot throttle pedal to go through the turn. I rarely ever have to change gear. Once you turn you can rev it back up to 540 with either foot or hand throttle.


You do not have to keep the bush hog up to 540 religiously as some slashing (bush hogging) only requires maybe 450 or 500 or less.

The other tip is to keep using your foot throttle if you have to slash up and down hills or around obstacles in order to regulate speed and control the tractor

On hills when going up and down: reduce revs, foot momentarily on foot brake, shuttle into reverse (or forward) then increase revs. with foot throttle

Once you get into the swing of it, it is quite easy and convenient.

Don't let the slasher dictate your tractor driving and be comfortable letting the pto rev up and down.

 

[PoorPlowboy]

TractorData.com - Overrunning PTO Clutch

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Dennis52 nailed it.....I rarely ever shift gears, unless it's UP....I mow in a gear that's a controllable speed, and don't usually find the need to slow up. And his point about throttle down/throttle up is spot on. No need to worry about rpm variation.....won't hurt a thing.

And yes, you can use the turning brakes.

I've literally spent hours on end without touching the clutch or shifter in a big field....That's easier on the tractor and more efficient use of time in my book.

 

[gwdixon]

And yes, you can use the turning brakes.

On the M7040 (and most tractors) if you use the split brakes to turn without throttling down you will experience an acceleration through the turn as all the power is switched to one rear wheel.

It works great for turning on the flat but be careful if using the split braking while mowing cross hill and turning downhill at the end of the cut.

Try it at the dealer so you can experience the phenomenon. Set the engine hand throttle while moving along as with mowing - not too fast. Then step on one of the brake pedals (make sure they are not connected) and hang on.

FWJ, with his considerable experience, can elaborate.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

On the M7040 (and most tractors) if you use the split brakes to turn without throttling down you will experience an acceleration through the turn as all the power is switched to one rear wheel.

It works great for turning on the flat but be careful if using the split braking while mowing cross hill and turning downhill at the end of the cut.

Try it at the dealer so you can experience the phenomenon. Set the engine hand throttle while moving along as with mowing - not too fast. Then step on one of the brake pedals (make sure they are not connected) and hang on.

FWJ, with his considerable experience, can elaborate.

Any tractor with an open differential and turning brakes will do the same to some extent. Use turning brakes LIGHTLY....so as not to lock inside wheel.

When turning on a side hill, ESPECIALLY so when turning down the hill, it's best to throttle back to a relatively low engine speed, and of course, you should already be at a low ground speed (via gear selection)