430 baler tying problems

   / 430 baler tying problems #1  

gary d s

New member
Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
1
Location
Choctaw, OK
Tractor
430 John Deere
Hi, I'm Linda. I turned to this website for help since my husband is too stubborn. He ended last season with the baler working fine. This season it ties over and over in the same place and won't cut. He has replaced parts, greased and about everything that you would normally do. If you reply I think your comment will go to his email. Any suggestions?
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #2  
Linda
The tying mechanism on a JD 430 rd baler is a little complex. First tell your hubby to be sure all 5 springs in attached photo are intact and attached correctly. Hay/debris can build up under parts key # 14 keeping spool valve from shifting allowing twine arm to move to the RH but not return to LH side to put twine on bale and cut twine. Also rust/debris on spool shaft of valve can cause problems. Back when 430's were new I sold and delivered them. Your hubby can feel free to call me at 8one7*five1seven-1five9zero and I will try to help him. Also I baled many bales with a 430 before I upgraded to a 435,then a 466,then a 467 in my 20+ yr custom hay baling career.
 

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   / 430 baler tying problems #3  
I am pretty familiar with the 430. Does it try to tie when the bale is about three feet around? This is a very easy and cheap fix. On the right hand side, open the door. Look below the twine box. Find an arm made from about one inch bar steel kind of behind the twine arm pump. It will have a slanted angle cut towards the front of the baler and the rear of the bar goes...who knows where. It is the bar that the manual tie rope connects to. Anyway, find that bar, There should be a little spring about 2-3 inches long holding pressure on the bar. It should hold pressure to make sure the bar slides back and latches after the gate closes. If it is gone or sprung, your baler will want to tie just as the bale starts forming. Look in your operators manual for pictures in this area showing the spring. It is hard to describe something that is probably not there.
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #4  
levijames
A 430 can tie a 3 ft diameter bale every time even if spring you referred to is attached and not sprung if tying mechanism fails to reset because of an obstruction when tailgate is closed after bale is ejected.
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #5  
I just bought a 430. I roll up around 1k bales per year

is it OK to pressure wash the whole thing, including inside the doors to remove debris and chaff?

Mine needs a good cleaning, but appears to be in good shape.
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #6  
I would check to make sure that the spring bars that hold the hay down against the strippers isn't bent and catching the string as it travels across on it's way to the cut off. Something is stopping the string from aligning against the left side of the bale and lining up with the blade mechanism.
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #7  
I just bought a 430. I roll up around 1k bales per year

is it OK to pressure wash the whole thing, including inside the doors to remove debris and chaff?

Mine needs a good cleaning, but appears to be in good shape.

High pressure washing can lead to brg failure from water being pushed past brg seals. Blowing off with air is better choice for cleaning.
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #8  
thanks Tx Jim

that makes sense to me.

I learned to bale on a 605C. Now am moving onto a 430jd. it is like going from counting on fingers to using a computer.

this will be an interesting season.
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #9  
subscribed
 
   / 430 baler tying problems #10  
Good Afternoon, I found this old post about JD 430 tying problems. I have a 530 doing a similar thing and I hope you can help or point me in the right direction. In the thumbnail you had showing the parts break down, #21 is not returning to the home position back under #14 after I dump a bale, I have to manually pull #21 forward towards the tractor about 1/4 inch before I start a new bale. I have replaced the springs, changed the filter, and check the fluid level. If I reset #21 back under #14, the tying arm will travel correctly, however I also have to apply pressure to the arm when it reaches the RH side to make it click and then travel back to the LH side. It will start to pull the knife blade down, but does not seem to have enough pressure to complete the knife cut. any ideas? thanks in advance Carl
 
 
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