3-Point Hitch Newbie question - How is the 3pt hitch supposed to work?

[Tim Berframe]

Hi,

I have had my Jinma 354 for 6 years and only used it maybe 300 hours. I am wondering if the 3pt hitch is normal. My observations:

It is up or down, I can't stop it at a desired height (this would really help smoothing dirt with the box blade)
If it is down, it floats. This sucks when using the box blade for pushing snow because it doesn't scrape clean, it smooths out a uniform layer of the snow I am trying to get rid of.

When it raises to the top, it bogs the engine down significantly and I have to relax back on the lever a hair but not too much or it falls to bottom again. It is real touchy.

When machine was new, there were Chinese characters on the lever and at the bottom denoting position but they have long since disappeared so I never knew what they said.

Questions:

Does anything sound 'wrong' here?
Should I be able to 'lock' it in a down position so the blade scrapes?

Thanks for any help,

Tim

 

[puckgrinder85]

3 points always float, however you can change the angle of the blade with the top link to give you different results. This is also why people warn against a 3pt "trailer hitch" if your pulling trailers around, since there is no down pressure the trailer can lift the 3pt and make you lose control of your tractor.

Some tractors do not have a variable position 3pt, its either up or down and that sounds like yours. Most have infinite variable where you can go full up or down and anywhere in between.

 

[creekbend]

I am not familiar with your make and model, but is there a three point hitch lowering speed knob underneath the front of your seat? My Kubota does. BTW, do you have an Operator's Manual for your tractor. Best wishes.

 

[creekbend]

I am not familiar with your make and model, but is there a three point hitch lowering speed knob underneath the front of your seat? My Kubota does. BTW, do you have an Operator's Manual for your tractor. Best wishes.

BTW, Welcome aboard.

 

[Gary Fowler]

You will likely get a better response posting this in the Chinese tractor forum here on TBN. The Jinma 354 is fairly recent model and should have infinitely variable positioning of the three point. There is obviously some misadjustment of the lift lever as you say it stalls the engine if pulled all the way up/back to raise the lift. There is an adjustment that can be done, but I am not familiar with how to do it but it has been discussed here on TBN before.
As for floating, you wont get any relief there as that is all any of the 3 PH do on todays tractors. They have no down pressure on almost all CUT< I think maybe there is one or two exceptions, but Jinma isnt one of them and neither is any other brand listed on TBN forums. Someone is sure to jump in here and say that their tractor has down pressure now.

 

[murphy1244]

:welcome:

 

[SSdoxie]

To get more agressive cut with your blade, adjust the top link longer if you are pulling forward. If pushing in reverse, shorten the blade. The closer the cutting edge is setting pependicula with the ground the more it will "drag" across the gorund wihout digging in. More angle it has in direction of travel the more aggressive cut it takes.

As others mentioned, post your 3pt operation post your question in the Chinese Tractor forum.

 

[jinman]

The operation of your 3PH sounds like it is in "draft mode" to me. You may have a selector that puts it into "position control mode." Also, most tractors have a lift limit stop of some kind. On mine, it's an arm that moves with the rockshaft. It is adjustable so that the 3PH lift stops before it goes into the mechanical stops and the hydraulics go into relief bypass. If your Jinma does not have that, you may need to put a limit on your 3PH lever so that you cannot raise it above the critical point. All of these things should be cleared up in the Chinese tractor forums if you post there as you've been advised.

 

[Arkaybee]

To get more agressive cut with your blade, adjust the top link longer if you are pulling forward. If pushing in reverse, shorten the blade.

Don't you mean just the OPPOSITE adjustments from what you have described?
i.e. pulling forward you get more aggressive with shorter top link; pushing to the rear a longer top link makes the cut more aggressive.

HTH

Arkaybee

 

[npalen]

Probably depends a lot on how the edge of the blade is worn. Tilting the blade forward would probably work better if the blade is worn flat on the cutting edge. Tilting the blade back would tend to let it "sled" rather than cut.

To get more agressive cut with your blade, adjust the top link longer if you are pulling forward. If pushing in reverse, shorten the blade.

Don't you mean just the OPPOSITE adjustments from what you have described?
i.e. pulling forward you get more aggressive with shorter top link; pushing to the rear a longer top link makes the cut more aggressive.

HTH

Arkaybee