Water in my oil....deere 1020...HELP

[Blueflint]

I have developed a coolent into oil leak on my 1020 Deere. It is a 1969 mfg with the 135 gas engine, about 1,500 hours on it, runs great. I caught it before any damage was done looks like. I removed the head and there are on obvious problems. Shining a light up into the crankcase, I can see a few bright green drips along 2 on the liner lower edges. Seems that is most likely the problem. The engine serial number is 133647 and that indicates this is the early one seal type liners. Now...how do I get the liners out? I put a piece of wood on the lower edge and rapped it with a hammer but there seemed to be no movement. Any help would be appreciated...I need to geet this thing going soon, we have a small produce farm and it is about time to get things going.

Thanks, Tony

 

[jd110]

The liners/sleeves get pretty tight from rust and deposits over the years. I assume you have removed piston and rod assemblies. There are sleeve pullers made for the purpose of removing the sleeves. They are the best and safest way of removing the liners without damage to the block. With that said, I have successfully removed liners with a length of steel rod and a hydraulic jack. If you place the steel rod on the edge of the liner so it can't catch the edge of the block when it moves, jack up on the liner with the hydraulic jack. Sometimes they can be so tight that the front of the tractor will raise off the ground. If they won't move, try tapping on the top of the liner with a brass hammer. The vibration can help get them started. Again, I stress the need for having the rod used for pushing placed properly. The liner sometimes will move quickly when it starts and damage to the block can happen. You may be able to rent a puller from local dealer or machine shop or rental yard if this method sounds too risky.

 

[stuckmotor]

After an overhall, my tractor once had a water in the oil, problem. I tightened down the head, changed the oil, and filter and never had that problem again.

If pulling the liners is really necesary, there's a homemade liner puller on another forum. If I find it again, I'll get back to you.

 

[art]

After an overhall, my tractor once had a water in the oil, problem. I tightened down the head, changed the oil, and filter and never had that problem again.

If pulling the liners is really necesary, there's a homemade liner puller on another forum. If I find it again, I'll get back to you.

You are lucky!

 

[Blueflint]

O.K., got one liner out and will work on this again later this week. Now...this is an older model, engine serial number is 133647T, tractor made in 1969, engine looks to be made in 1968 (date on bearings is 12-67). There is only one o-ring on the liner...which is what I expected...which is what the early ones had. Now for my replacements...I guess I need the "before serial number 162,078"...description states "two grooves on sleeves". I know this is an upgrade, just want to make sure I get the right kit. Any insight? Thanks

 

[Tx Jim]

AR52252 CYLINDER LINER & PACKING ADD 103.00 USD 309.00 USD

CYLINDER LINER
(GASOLINE ENGINE SERIAL NO. -162078)
(DIESEL ENGINE SERIAL NO. -154765)
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY ENGINE SERIAL NO. REMARKS
1 R48637 WASHER 6 (USE WHEN AR51902 OR AR52252 HAS BEEN INSTALLED)
2 R48638 O-RING 3 (USE WHEN AR51902 OR AR52252 HAS BEEN INSTALLED)
3 AR51902 CYLINDER LINER 3 (DIESEL) (SUB FOR T20085) (USE WITH T26935)
AR52252 KIT 3 (GASOLINE) (SUB FOR T20080)