Super C Knock in bell housing

[TNSuperC]

Well my 61 year old tractor developed a knock this weekend while I was bush hogging. Sounds like it is coming from the bell housing area under the battery box and not under my seat (which would mean tranny trouble). I don't hear the knock when I move in reverse only when I'm going forward. The knock does not seem to be consistent (rhythmic)...not a fast knocking like the flywheel. It pulls fine, shifts fine.

Guess I'll be splitting the tractor to see for sure what is going on.

Up at the engine, there are six bolts that connect the bell housing. The bell housing section looks to be maybe 3-4 feet long and connects to the rear section with four bolts.

Any advice at this point?

 

[DJ54]

Going to take a wild guess, and say a clutch release yoke pivot pin (#29 in the exploded view below) cotter pin may have worn, or broke off, allowing it to go to one side. If memory serves me right, there are two cotter pins, just inside the yoke to hold it in place. You should be able to see it in the top of the torque tube. One side comes through behind where the starter mounts. The pin should be about flush on both sides.

That, or the drive shaft flex joint bolts may be worn/loose allowing it to wobble some.

Or, one of the clutch return springs (#17) may have broken, cocking the clutch release sleeve.

Then again... Are all plugs and inspection covers in place..?? 'Tis the season where lil' critters are making a winter home..!!


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[TNSuperC]

The knocking sound was my front wheel rim...bolts had come loose from a recent flat. :duh: Didn't notice it til I went back out to do some test runs to trouble shoot. What a relief! Fatalist you say? Me? Well no sir, but I'm sure bad luck is just waiting to hit.

Pulling a 5' cutter (drag type) through some fairly thick overgrown pasture...blackberry briars, Johnson grass, orchard grass, iron weed, sericia, and others I can't name. The stuff is mostly up to the belly of the Super C. Some is taller than the hood. Runnin mostly in 2nd...she just lugs down and pulls on through.

I'm having the most fun running at night. All three lights burning brightly. The few cars driving by slow down to gander at the spectacle. The lights are placed perfectly to adjust direction by hand from the seat...simplicity is the best design.

 

[DJ54]

Glad that's all it was..! At least you'll know where to look if you hear it again. Amazing how those sounds seemingly travel through the chassis. That be known as "experience"...

 

[stuckmotor]

I'm glad it was something easy. Do you have any idea of the fuel per hour the Super C consumes while doing the work you described. Just curious.

 

[TNSuperC]

Haven't measured it but about 2 gal/hour.

If you're familiar with these tractors, you know the throttle control has notches. Past the "wide open" notch, there is an area that is "scooped out," meaning, you can move the throttle a good ways past wide open, but you have to hold it there. When I run the cutter in this thick stuff, I jam a rag between the throttle lever and plate to run "wide open + some." It'll still lug in the really thick stuff, but not as bad.

 

[stuckmotor]

My cousin used to run Super Ms with all fuel engines. He ran them on gasoline in both the starter tank and the main tank. He told me that his drivers plowed until the main tank was empty and that was the signal to come home for lunch. They returned on the starter tank, filled back up, and went back after eating.

 

[TNSuperC]

OK, now I have another problem that just came up. I just noticed today that I have an oil leak around the belt-drive shaft. There is a bushing that has run out of the housing and allows oil to leak. I don't use the belt-drive shaft, but it is controlled by the same lever that controls the PTO...which I have been using. Any advice on how to repair this?

 

[farmeratheart]

Dad had a C and a 200 when I was a kid- same tractor 10 years apart ... The C had the belt drive accessory and the 200 did not. One time when the C was down for a long-term repair we switched the belt-drive to the 200. The cover on the 200 fit the C perfectly. Finding one of these cover plates would eliminate your issue.

 

[DJ54]

If it's still on the shaft, just tap it back in. That is a spacer for the belt pulley, to keep it out of the seal, when installing the pulley. If it starts out again, might consider lightly staking it with a center punch. Not too much, you may need to get it off someday.