Clutch does not disengage

   / Clutch does not disengage #1  

cruiserbiker

New member
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Messages
5
Location
Brandon, Ms.
Tractor
350di mahindra
I have a e350di and the clutch about two weeks ago didnt seem to want to disengage when I went to put in gear. Now it is just like it is out all the time and cant put it into gear.. still have a good pedal as always.
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #2  
Sounds like it may need adjusting? I was talking to my Mahindra dealer, and he told me they get lots of clutch calls, as people are real bad about riding the clutch, and that is sure trouble. You may want to call your dealer.

Good Luck, Les
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #3  
It sounds like your clutch has locked up to the pressure plate. Not an uncommon problem if the tractor has been setting awhile, even on the 8 and 9Ns. You have to remove the cover on the underside and attempt to drive something sharp (like a machete blade)between the clutch and pressure plate.
You may have to turn the motor over by hand or key switch to get all the way around. It'll pop free once you've done that.....so I'm told. Never done it myself.
Good luck.
 
   / Clutch does not disengage
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks , I thought something like that had occurred. I will give it a try.
 
   / Clutch does not disengage
  • Thread Starter
#5  
No access to the clutch from underneath the Mahindra 350di /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #6  
When my Allis Chalmers D-12 used to rust the clutch to the pressure plate, most times I could break it free by putting it in first, press the clutch pedal and bump the key to start. One time that didn't work, so I c clamped the clutch pedal half way down, next couple of days tightened it alittle, then ended up having to spay the heck out of the clutch with WD-40 (I had an access hole underneath) before I could get it to break free. I flushed the clutch with water when it finally broke free and rode the clutch for a while to heat it up and it never slipped. After that episode, I learned to c clamp the clutch pedal at least half way down if I wasn't gonna use the tractor for a while. Good luck gettin it free.
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #7  
I saw this happen a couple of times to the 1956 Ford 641 my dad had. Usually happens after infrequent use. I was probably a teenager then, so don't remember much about it....but do remember my dad had a technique for dealing with it. To the best of my memory, he would get the tractor started and actually drove the thing down our country road and would hit the brakes real heavy a few times (as in stomping ) and after several tries would usually get it broken loose. Of course , dealing with a rolling tractor you can't clutch, may be dicey. Maybe someone else has heard of this ? Anyhow, I remember us also putting something on the clutch pedal , like a half block , to depress the clutch slightly while it was being stored for long periods to avoid this problem. That's as I remember it....wouldn't swear to it though and do it at your risk.

sassafraspete
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #8  
Pete, I suspect you're right about how your dad got the clutch unstuck. My first tractoring experience was with a 1940 John Deere and when used infrequently, the clutch would stick. You could start it in neutral (hand crank in the front end), but then could not get it in gear. So we always parked it behind the barn with a bit of room in front of it. So the procedure was to start it in neutral, let it warm up so it would start easily next time, then shut it down. Put it in low (1st) gear, throttle at idle, give the crank a good hard pull, then get out from in front of it as it started moving, run around it and climb on from behind, then pull the throttle wide open and stand on the brake and clutch pedals as hard as possible until the clutch popped loose. Then everything was OK until the next time we left it parked for a week or so. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #9  
When we used to do a lot of importing of used Japanese tractors, it was fairly normal to have one or more stuck clutches per container. I routinely used the "start in gear then stomp on the brake method" of breaking the clutches free until one day the weakest link in the system wasn't the stuck clutch nor the brakes and I blew out the rear differentlial. Now if presented with this problem, I'll gentle try the brakes and if that does not work I'll find an access hole and tap on the clutch a little then try again. That has worked real well.

They say we should learn from our mistakes, but it's even better to learn from others mistakes. So learn from mine. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif The stomp on the brake method can damage the tractor if you are not careful. I think it goes without saying that it is also a dangerous method if you aren't real savvy doing this sort of thing.
 
   / Clutch does not disengage #10  
That surprises me, Dave. I would have thought you'd just stall the engine before anything else broke. Of course I learn something new frequently on this forum. And it's been 50 years since I did that on a two cylinder gas Deere. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
 
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