Brake Seizing 1954 Ford NAA

[Ortis]

When I press the right brake pedal on this tractor, or even at times if I don't, the right wheel locks up and does not release until it is dragged along for a while. I'll pull the wheel and look, but has anyone else been through this? Could it be as easy as a missing return spring, or do these get a worse affliction?

 

[jinman]

Ortis, has the tractor been sitting for awhile and not used? If the brake drum is binding due to rust on the hub, that could be the reason for your problem. The brakes on the NAA are self-assisting type brakes. It's kind of a poor man's power brakes. When you step down, the mechanism uses the pressure and rotation of the wheel to actually apply more pressure than you are exerting on the pedal. It's a nice system, but if the brakes bind a little, they self-engage.

Before you pull the drum, you might back off on the adjuster on the inside of the wheel. Are you familiar with how to manually adjust brakes? Otherwise, it's a simple job to pull the wheel and hub to do an inspection if the wheels aren't loaded with water. In order to get the drum off, you may have to back off the brake adjustment too. It's a slot on the inside of the wheel hub and is supposed to have a rubber grommet dust cover in it, but many of these have been lost. In the slot you will see a star-shaped nut that you can use a screwdriver to turn. I believe up loosens the brakes and down tightens, but if you turn it one direction, you'll quickly see if that's right or wrong and continue or go the opposite direction.

Let us know what you find.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree with Jinman... check your return springs to make sure the pedal isn't falling. and letting the brake self-energize.

Same with the brake drag.. check the adjustment. just jack the tracto up and get a big screwdriver.. it's just a star wheel adjuster. takes 5 minutes..

Soundguy

 

[Ortis]

Thanks to Jinman and Sounduy. It'll be another week before I get to the brakes, but your suggestions make sense. The rubber plug over the adjuster hole is not, and I can see a lotta hay in there. Next week, I'll pull the wheel, and I bet I find hay jamming the mechanism, a broken return spring, AND badly worn shoes since they are dragging enough that the drum gets warm. So far, I still think I got a fair deal since this thing has sat outside for long time, judging by a the guages being rusted stuck. Thats the next project.

 

[OrtisEvans]

FYI, I found the problem. The drum is so worn that someone must have run it with no lining left for a long time. The cross secition which should be straight across is concave. There not just some gouges or scratches it is worn maybe 1/8" in the center. The local shop would not turn it because of the amount of metal that would have to be removed. I may have them do it anyway - I never run the tractor at 70 mph on the interstate so a drum failure should not be disasterous. Yes, I ordered a new one, but the company kept promising delivery but failed. Eventually I'll find one

 

[Soundguy]

8n and naa use the same drums.. repops ( cast iron ) are plentiful.

here's a link to a buddy of mine with one for sale very reasonably.

Ford Tractor Rear Axle and Brake Parts For Sale

john smith is a great, honest guy.