Dunham Culti-Packer

   / Dunham Culti-Packer #1  

Dargo

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I have had a Dunham Culti-Packer (that's how it's written in block lettering in the steel) that has two rows of steel wheels and is about 9' wide. It was made by Dunham Co. in Berea, OH according to the markings. I've had it for many, many years and I bought it from an auction from an old farmer who had it. He was in his upper 90's when he passed away and there is no telling how long he had it. Anyway, the outer bearings, if you would call it bearings, are pretty well gone. I took the end cap off of one end and it just looked like there was this giant cotter pin through the axle and a big washer. On the inside where the steel wheels are, it's just open and any grease I put in the end caps just falls out from the center.

Is anyone familiar with these? I'm wanting to get some sort of bearings put in the four end caps or something to keep this from seizing up when pulling it. I am thinking about getting some bearing and a pillow block setup, but the axle shaft is so galled and scored that I'm not sure that that would work either. I don't want to go through all the trouble of taking the axles out and having it machined or replaced. Any ideas on a relatively simple but effective fix?
 
   / Dunham Culti-Packer #2  
I've seen a BUNCH of those things with WOOD BLOCKS shaped to fit the axle and slathered with wheel bearing grease that have served a many an acre. Roller bearings would be better for obvious reasons, but anything that allows them to roll and doesn't fall apart seems to do the job. NOT a precision tool by any stretch. Those old cultipackers are the best thing in the world to "finish" a seedbed with. 20 years ago, they were a dime a dozen. Now it takes a bunch of pesos to nab a good one.
 
   / Dunham Culti-Packer #3  
I've got one of those Dunham cultipackers, too and my bearings are also really sloppy. Im wondering if a guy with a torch and some babbit could make it work better. Just a thought.
 
   / Dunham Culti-Packer
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#4  
Farmwithjunk said:
Now it takes a bunch of pesos to nab a good one.

That's exactly why I want to fix this one. :) I thought about buying a new bigger one until I saw what the prices are now. Any repair I do to mine will cost more than I paid for it. :eek: That sounds bad, but when looking for parts for mine I saw the exact same thing I have listed for $1100! :eek:

I do not farm any, but when putting in a lawn the culti-packer works great between rototilling and using a gill, and then again after you plant grass seed after gilling.
 
   / Dunham Culti-Packer
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#5  
Okay, anybody know for certain how to tell cast steel from cast iron? I have bought stress proof hardened new axles for the cultipacker (dang, not cheap!) and four high quality bearings in flanges in which the new axles will ride. My issue right now is that I need to cut out four plates from 3/8" steel that measure about 6"X6", cut a 3 1/2" circle out of that piece, and weld that part to the existing barrel on the culti-packer where the axle will fit.

I can burn out the pieces easy enough with my plasma cutter, but I am having a hard time determining if I have cast steel or cast iron. I'm thinking it is cast steel because I had one "arm" that was bent that I was able to bend back in my 20 ton press without it breaking. From past experience, if it was cast iron, I think it would have broken then. But, if I was sure, I wouldn't be asking...so, I'm still not sure. Thoughts? It says "Dunite metal" on it, but I can't find anywhere if that means anything.
 
   / Dunham Culti-Packer #6  
Dargo I keep expecting the dog or horse or whatever in your avatar to get up and stomp those rotten little smileys. What's that all about? Funny!
Jim
 
   / Dunham Culti-Packer #7  
The attached image shows a simple technique for identifying types of metal. Not sure how good or accurate it is.

From a Forney Welding Manual 9th Ed., Copyrighted 1972. No ISBN number. Moderators can delete if concerned.

Picked it up at a Farm Store for $5. It's largely out of date info but good for light reading.
 

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   / Dunham Culti-Packer #8  
Similar thing (worse quality picture) from:

Welding by Don Geary copyright 2000
ISBN: 0-07-134245-1
 

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   / Dunham Culti-Packer
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#9  
jimmysisson said:
Dargo I keep expecting the dog or horse or whatever in your avatar to get up and stomp those rotten little smileys. What's that all about? Funny!
Jim

Beating a dead horse...:D
 
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#10  
PBinWA said:
Picked it up at a Farm Store for $5. It's largely out of date info but good for light reading.

Thanks. It's not exactly out of date for working on something that was made in the 20's though. :) Strange enough, I called the instructor of a local technical college who teaches welding courses and he gave me verbal instructions very similar to tell the difference. If you hit cast iron with a grinder, you only get sparks for about 2 or 3 inches. With cast steel you get the normal spark show for a few feet, just like, er, with steel.

Now, from all the welding sites and this instructor, they all tell me that I need to pre-heat both the parent material as well as my brackets and use a 7018 rod to weld. Then, they all advise me to cover it with some sort of fireproof blanket or let it sit directly in the sun to allow it to cool slowly.

I'm still working on making the brackets. Making complex pieces out of 3/8" material isn't exactly a fast process. :(
 
 
 
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