Rather than a Ballast box that you can do nothing with other than add weight and use as ballast. Would I be better off with a 48” box blade (not sure what they weigh)and add some weight to it and use it as ballast. That way I would also be able to use it for grading. Or is the box blade to bulky to leave attached all the time. I will be moving manure, dirt, stone and snow.
Grading JD2305 Ballast box vs 48" box blade for ballast?
- Thread starter JDGREEN1
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orlo
Platinum Member
Hi:
You can indeed use it for ballast, but the JD ballast box is a lot more compact. I use the BB (no extension) had it weighs a little over 700lbs which is a lot more than a 48" BB (But the BB sticks out further). You could always put some weights on the BB though.
I guess it depends on your needs. If size is an issue, spring for the Ballast Box. If not the box blade is probably fine except where you need a full load of ballast.
You can indeed use it for ballast, but the JD ballast box is a lot more compact. I use the BB (no extension) had it weighs a little over 700lbs which is a lot more than a 48" BB (But the BB sticks out further). You could always put some weights on the BB though.
I guess it depends on your needs. If size is an issue, spring for the Ballast Box. If not the box blade is probably fine except where you need a full load of ballast.
Bob_Skurka
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I use both, it just depends on the situation.
A 48" box blade is going to weight anywhere from 275# to about 400# depending on how light or heavy the construction of the blade you choose. Obviously a light duty box blade is not going be nearly as effective at adding stability as a heavy duty blade. As was already pointed out, a ballast box is a lot more compact than a box blade. If you are working in tight spaces, around your buildings, fences, or trees, then a ballast box may be a better choice for your ballasting needs.
I also use my ballast box to carry tools and other things. If you take a couple 4" diameter PVC pipes and insert them vertically into your ballast box, then pour sand or concrete around those tubes, you can then insert long handled tools into the PVC pipes and use the ballast box to carry the tools vertically out to your worksite, while only giving up a little bit of weight of the ballast box. Tools can also be strapped/bungied to a box blade, but generally you lay them down which makes them stick out even farther, therefore harder to maneuver in tight spaces. If you don't have tight spaces, then no problem!
BTW, if you weld or bolt some heavy duty casters onto the bottom of your ballast box you won't regret it!
A 48" box blade is going to weight anywhere from 275# to about 400# depending on how light or heavy the construction of the blade you choose. Obviously a light duty box blade is not going be nearly as effective at adding stability as a heavy duty blade. As was already pointed out, a ballast box is a lot more compact than a box blade. If you are working in tight spaces, around your buildings, fences, or trees, then a ballast box may be a better choice for your ballasting needs.
I also use my ballast box to carry tools and other things. If you take a couple 4" diameter PVC pipes and insert them vertically into your ballast box, then pour sand or concrete around those tubes, you can then insert long handled tools into the PVC pipes and use the ballast box to carry the tools vertically out to your worksite, while only giving up a little bit of weight of the ballast box. Tools can also be strapped/bungied to a box blade, but generally you lay them down which makes them stick out even farther, therefore harder to maneuver in tight spaces. If you don't have tight spaces, then no problem!
BTW, if you weld or bolt some heavy duty casters onto the bottom of your ballast box you won't regret it!
orlo
Platinum Member
Bob:
I love your idea of the PVC tool holders but it's too late for me since I poured concrete in mine (Unless I drill it..
.
I May though fasten some PVC to the side/back of it, or maybe even weld some 2" pipes on the rear. Then Paint them JD green to match. That's such a great idea.
About the wheels. I haven't welded any on yet but I'm going to or make an angle iron frame with wheels on it that fits the box. Moving them is a pain when they are off. I have a BB with an extension full of concrete for my 3320 that weighs over 1000lbs. I'd never move that one. I can at least 'nudge' the 700lb one I use on the 2305 though.
I love your idea of the PVC tool holders but it's too late for me since I poured concrete in mine (Unless I drill it..
. I May though fasten some PVC to the side/back of it, or maybe even weld some 2" pipes on the rear. Then Paint them JD green to match. That's such a great idea.
About the wheels. I haven't welded any on yet but I'm going to or make an angle iron frame with wheels on it that fits the box. Moving them is a pain when they are off. I have a BB with an extension full of concrete for my 3320 that weighs over 1000lbs. I'd never move that one. I can at least 'nudge' the 700lb one I use on the 2305 though.
RoyJackson
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Since I don't have a box blade, I use a ballast box. It really helps!
I do prefer a ballast box as you can put some serious weight in them (I've got 500-600 lbs of sand) and carry tools to a work site. The ballast box is also fairly compact is size so less chance of hitting something with it.
As far as moving it around when it's off the tractor... I picked up a refrigerator dolly (4 casters and rated for 1000 lbs) which the box stays on when not rigged to the 3PH. This was a Harbor Freight special that cost $15. It pushes quite easily as long as it's on concrete.
The PVC pipe is a good idea. Since I use sand, I just poke the tools (shovel, rake, etc.) in the sand. If I went the PVC route, I'd suggest drilling a few holes in the bottom of the ballast box to allow water drainage.
I do prefer a ballast box as you can put some serious weight in them (I've got 500-600 lbs of sand) and carry tools to a work site. The ballast box is also fairly compact is size so less chance of hitting something with it.
As far as moving it around when it's off the tractor... I picked up a refrigerator dolly (4 casters and rated for 1000 lbs) which the box stays on when not rigged to the 3PH. This was a Harbor Freight special that cost $15. It pushes quite easily as long as it's on concrete.
The PVC pipe is a good idea. Since I use sand, I just poke the tools (shovel, rake, etc.) in the sand. If I went the PVC route, I'd suggest drilling a few holes in the bottom of the ballast box to allow water drainage.
I am very happy with the ballast box. I also have the I mach. My box weights 450#. I have some babbet and some 2X4X16 steel stock and two cement blocks on top. with gives me holes for tools and room for a 50 cal ammo box as a tool box. I have used the tiller before it weights 450# but it would get in the way most of the time.
RalphVa
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One pretty good alternative to a ballast box that can be used for other things is a carryall. Bolt a pallet to the bottom of it and add some sides, and you have some major carrying capacity. It's a bit bigger than a ballast box. The major thing going for it is its compactness.
I've used my carryall, brush hog, back blade and soil ripper as ballast at various times. A back blade is pretty light though. A box blade would be heavier, but also sticks out further (but not near as far as a brush hog).
Don't ever use your FEL without any ballast on the back unless it's something VERY light. Just running over something with a rear wheel going downhill with only 2 or 3 40# bags in the FEL can cause it to tip up on the raised rear wheel, without ballast.
Ralph
I've used my carryall, brush hog, back blade and soil ripper as ballast at various times. A back blade is pretty light though. A box blade would be heavier, but also sticks out further (but not near as far as a brush hog).
Don't ever use your FEL without any ballast on the back unless it's something VERY light. Just running over something with a rear wheel going downhill with only 2 or 3 40# bags in the FEL can cause it to tip up on the raised rear wheel, without ballast.
Ralph
archerynut
Platinum Member
I have a Bush hog 4' box blade and it weighs 248 pounds. I think that is sufficient for light loader work. However, if you are planning to do some heavy duty loader work, I would spring for the ballast box, you can make it heavier, put tools in it (with PVs pipes), and it is a lot smaller for getting in and out of tight spaces. On other hand, you can't do anything else with a ballast box besides make your tractor heavier. Also have heard of people putting weights on the box blade for additional ballast.
johndeere_2210
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I agree, the boxblade is good for light weight, but I have purchased a number of clip on weights and find adjusting the needed ballast very easy. In the picture below, I have 4-suitcase weights, but I routinely add 400 lbs when needed for heavy work. Personally, I like this option for rear ballast because of the following reasons: it's now a multi use implement, covers my tracks which consequently cover the complete rear when back up in tight places, especially the woods so it keeps the entire rear protected and I can add/subtract weight as needed.
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Mayor
Silver Member
I think your going to need both. For moving snow and mulch the box blade (48 in)with some weight is fine. If you want to move some dirt and stone then your going to need some weight. I have over 700 lbs in my weight box and the tractor feels like its stuck to the ground. The weight box makes the back end feel light now and then. Most of the time it's when on uneven ground. Get both you will need them.
