Who has put up a composite split rail fence?

[VistanTN]

I'd go with a wider gate than 8' -- but then my Mahindra 6500 with the wheels set widest is almost 8' and with the gate hardware, it's a squueze -- forget the baler. 10' pipe farm gates are fairly light and don't sag that much if the gate posts and the next one in line are both concreted in. If you build a matching wood gate or gates (if double) they're heavier and you might want to split it as a double with a drop rod. OK, I know, the pipe gets full of dirt -- that's why I own a couple of cheap (and I do mean CHEAP) auger bits -- the electric drill cleans the pipe out a couple of time a year.

I have about 3000' of four board rail fence. It's mostly on creosoted posts, though some of the newer posts are PT. Boards are 1x6, rough cut -- probably off the property since there is an assortment of wood. Top rail is 54" and spacing is one board width, so the bottom is about 12" off the ground.

On the stuff I dismantled and relocated to change the fence line around new shop and barn, I cut the spacing down to 7'6" so I could trim split ends off the old rail boards. You can't see the difference, but it sure saved buying a bunch of new lumber. all ours is painted black with TSC black asphalitic fence paint -- very little peeling, mostly just wears off with time.

Oh, one more thought. If you have horses (we do), don't rely on the "pass thru" time of gate latch. Board fences expand and shrink with moisture (or in our case lack of it this summer) more than those latches can accommodate. We've had to chain gate to the post on the latch side (after the horses got out while we we away! Thank God for good neighbors!).

 

[UpstateSC_Papi]

Here's another split-rail "trick." Once you decide how much post is to be out of ground, take measurement (top down) and chalk/crayon post at ground line. Measure/mark all posts. Drill all holes slightly deeper than length of posts below mark. Drop posts in holes, assemble rails, go back and kick dirt into each hole to bring post up to ground line. Then fill/tamp each hole, and you're done...don't even need a level, plumb the fence by eye.

Within the next few months hope to tackle about 800' of 2-Rail Split... This "trick" is the greatest thing I've heard yet!!!

 

[LoneCowboy]

Do a double 8' gate (or 2 6' gates)
Put them back to back.
a. they won't sag much.
b. when you need a small opening, you only open one
c. when you need a big opening, you open both.
You'll need a big opening more than you think and if you don't do it, you'll be stuck without any options.

 

[VABlue]

Cowboy has a good point... When my fence went up I opted for two 8' truck gates (two gates each 4' wide) - they aren't quite wide enough to nicely fit a truck through. It can be done, but must be done carefully... A 12' gate would have been better...

 

[UpstateSC_Papi]

Anybody got any pics to share of a double gate they built? 6' or 8' each. Doesn't matter. Looking more for how attached to the split rail fence (if attached), supported, framed, etc...

Thanks!!

Michael

 

[BotaBigot]

Anybody got any pics to share of a double gate they built? 6' or 8' each. Doesn't matter. Looking more for how attached to the split rail fence (if attached), supported, framed, etc...

Thanks!!

Michael

Sorry. No pics, my split rail fencing was at my previous place...history. Also, didn't use double gates, not a fan of doubles/drop rods. But a double gate is just 2 singles, and I did build a few single split rail gates. I used carriage bolts at intersecting points on gates (still sagged some, and I wound up adding some fencing wire to the diagonal to bring 'em up). Used the biggest end posts (round) I had to make the gate hinge posts. You can concrete hinge post, but I don't like to concrete any posts, makes fence repair/moving a pain. Instead, I used fencing wire on the diagonal. I used heavy-duty lag-screw-style hinges. In general, split rail gates are more for looks. A metal gate lagged to the hinge post is more serviceable, if you don't need "the look."

Wish I had some pics, would have been clearer and saved me some typing.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I am trying to find some prices on the net and best places to purchase the material for a 3 reail split rail fence. HomeDepot shows the 2 rail posts but not the 3 or the slats. Lowes doesn't show anything. Anybody have recomendations of where to buy from and how much posts and slats cost?

In MD home depot has the 3 rail posts. I mark my posts before, as was pointed out. Something else I did, was sleaved one of the posts, so it and 2 sections of fence can be easily removed in case I needed to get a large vehicle thru. Worked out great when I had a large truck in delivering material.

 

[DAP]

Anybody got any pics to share of a double gate they built? 6' or 8' each. Doesn't matter. Looking more for how attached to the split rail fence (if attached), supported, framed, etc...

Thanks!!

Michael

Here's a pic of our double 8 footers (lower right center). They do not sag and need no support at the center. They are secured with 2 galvanized chain segments locked. The fence is 6x6x8 hemlock with 2x6x8 foot rough cut hemlock boards.

Unfortunately, I cannot obtain these boards in 16 foot lengths, which is totally superior to 8 foot runs for strength and durability.

Also, do NOT use pressure treated wood for animal containment if possible. The older PT contains arsenic and the new stuff is not adviseable, especially if your animals will crib the boards.

Lastly, use a half sack of quick crete on the gate posts. No need to add water, just back fill with the crete and some of the dug material. Anywhere you have some physical stresses on the fence, use some crete on the post holes.