Concrete ICF home continues

[Paddy]

Here are more photos as we have moved along. Views from inside the ICF block as the re-bar is placed. I'm glad I built the re-bar bender, nice radi for the corners. the vertical view is from a window buck, but you can see a pc of painted pipe the vertical re-bar will aim for after the blocks are stacked and befor the pour. Walkout bacement main wall.

We hope to pour Friday or Monday!

Patrick T.

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

Paddy,
when we poured our walkout last summer, we used bracing on the inside the same way you describe, and screwed 2x4's to the outside of the walls on long diagonals as bracing to help limit flex/shifting of the blocks as we poured. We also poured the concrete fairly wet so it flowed around the rebar and under the window bucks well. Did the tap block from the outside and knew when stuff shifted because we heard the bubble burst. Just keep tapping and walking around (full time job for 2-3 people during the pour) as it goes. The other thing we did was use fiber (strapping) tape on the corners as support from the outside - looked funny, but again, the blocks didn't shift. Only had 9' walls, so did it in 2 lifts of about 4 1/2' per pass - took bout an hour for each lap around the walls, so they set well before the next pass. No blowouts, a couple of small bulges where the bracing wasn't nailed into the ground well enough. One spot on the outside where we expected a problem we put up a sheet of OSB before the pour and it was fine when we pulled it down the next day.

Good luck and keep the pictures coming!

[Paddy]

Erik,

We have heard plywood bracing will not allow for 'settling' of the blocks. That is to say each block compact 1/16". With 9 rows that is 9/16". We had a pro come out and look our project over. He had the 'tude that all was fine , 'don't worry so much' I'm of a mind to be very care...full. I have 325' of wall 12' tall and I'm asking every question I can!!

It's great to see so much intrest and replies and I will keep the photos coming. I like to stand in one spot at the end of each day and shoot a photo. Some day I will be able to compact the pic-to-view-progress shot all from one vantage point.

Today mostly seting bracing and making window bucks. The DWGs came in for the steel floor joists. Now I must review and give the big 'approval'. Tough job due to the fact I have to review 10,400 sq-ft of joists at $42,000!

Patrick T.

[3RRL]

It sure hits you that it's all "real" when you see the footings and walls go up, huh? What an interesting project. You are going to be doubly insulated. How much time do you get to spend out there with the building going on?

[BobRip]

I cannot judge if this is enough, but you are bracing and are aware of the issues. Is this per the manufacturers recommendations? If it is then you are probably good to go.

[crbr]

Electrical work?

[Paddy]

3RRL,

I work from home as an engineer for a Europen co. So I'm able to be quite mobile. I do have a phone line at my camper so with my cell phone I'm 'connected'. I spend 5-6 hrs per day on site. hopefully not in the way!

Patrick T.

[Paddy]

crbr,

Electrical work? What do you mean?

Patrick T.

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

Paddy,
Sorry - we used Nudura blocks and they snap together and so the settling wasn't an issue. I'd still have a few sheets lying around "just in case" along with some precut bvoards to use as bracing - if you have a blowout, it'll happen fast and any time you can save in responding will be well worth the setup time!

Also - CRBR, electrical on mine was easy - I used a soldering gun with modified tip to melt a channel in the foam after the fact to use as chases. for the boxes I caved a hole in the foam and used a tapcon screw to anchor the box (18 CID) to the concrete -- this gave me exactly 1/2" sticking out for the drywall. Wire was fished through the plastic "web" inside the foam to hold it in place until the rock went up. This method of install was suggested by a licensed journeyman electrician, and he checked my work, so I'm not worried about safety.

[dfkrug]

On the subject of vibrating ICFs, I have tried multiple methods in
the 2-dozen projects I directed. I have never tried a "stinger" inside
the forms. Manufacturers have all said not to do that as the vibrator
can easily punch thru the sides. I have used hammers-and-blocks and
palm sanders successfully. Since we pour with a high slump (6+ inch)
and the forms are non-absorptive, minimal vibration is necessary. One
of the biggest problems during a pour (and I have seen virtually every
problem) is a too-low slump.