Worklight Brackets

[Ford850]

There are many good threads on wiring worklights and switches, but I had trouble settling on a light bracket design. I wanted something small since each bracket would be supporting just a single light. I also wanted a design that was inexpensive, could be moved easily without marring the tractor's finish, and would not need drilling or welding on the ROPS. I took a stroll through my local TSC and came up with a plan. A pair of these brackets can be made and installed in less than an hour, not counting the drying time for paint. They can be mounted on the top or sides of the ROP, with the lights to either the top, bottom, inside, or outside. They cost me less than $10 to make a pair, which saved me $50 - $110 compared to a pair of the brackets my dealer sells.

I bought the following at TSC, enough to make a pair of brackets:
2-Square U-bolts, 2" x 5" x 5/16"
2-U-Bolt Plates, 2" x 5/16"
2-Corner Braces (L-brackets), 5" x 1"
1 foot of 5/16" poly tubing
4 extra 5/16" nuts and lock washers.

I cut the L-brackets (7/8" off one end and 2 7/8" off the other end) and the U-bolts (1" of threads cut off each end) to get rid of the extra metal. I re-drilled the existing hole that was left in the short leg of the L-bracket to match the bolt size from my lights (3/8" in my case). On the long leg of the bracket I measured 2 3/8" on center from the hole closest to the bend and drilled a 3/8" hole for the U-bolt (3/8" rather than 5/16" to make it easier to mount). Holes in these brackets come 'off center' so I drilled this new hole in line with the pre-drilled hole to keep the bracket plum when mounted. I rounded the sharp edges with a file and painted the parts black to blend in with the ROP.
I cut 4 pieces of poly tube 3" long, and 2 that were 2". After the paint was dry on the metal, I used warm water and dish soap to help slide the 2" pieces of tube on the U-bolts, around the bend and onto the 2" section. Then add a 3" piece on each long side. You could use heat-shrink tubing rather than the poly tube I used. Cut 2 pieces of thin rubber, slightly larger than the U-bolt plates. I used an old computer mouse pad for this. Punch a hole in each end of the rubber pieces to line up with the U-bolt ends (2 3/8" on center).
Slide the U-bolt onto the ROP, from the front to the back. Slip the rubber cushion over the bolt ends, and then add the U-bolt plate and a nut on each bolt end. Snug it up with a wrench. Slide the long leg of the modified L-bracket over the bolt ends, with the short leg over the top of the ROP pointing towards the front of the tractor. Add lock washers and nuts, then tighten. The bolt from the light is mounted on the top short leg through the hole you re-drilled.
In the pictures below, you can see the pieces laid out in order and then assembled. The metal and bolt ends that were cut off are along the top of one picture and are not painted.
I used the U-bolt plates rather than just the L-brackets to tighten it to the ROP. I liked the idea of snugging up the U-bolt with the added padding of the tubing and rubber, to just the right tension, and still allowing the L-bracket to be tightened hard against the first nuts so they won稚 vibrate loose. The U-bolt plates, tubing, and rubber cushion could be skipped to make an easy bracket as well.
My ROP is 2" x 3". You could make this work for a 2" x 2" ROP by cutting an extra inch off the bolts, or by buying shorter bolts.

[lhfarm]

Very nice. I like the idea of being able to adjust up/down the ROPS to get the right location. What do you have planned for routing the wiring? Have any pictures of the completed installation?

Thanks,

[srossman]

Originally Posted by Ford850

There are many good threads on wiring worklights and switches, but I had trouble settling on a light bracket design. I wanted something small since each bracket would be supporting just a single light. I also wanted a design that was inexpensive, could be moved easily without marring the tractor's finish, and would not need drilling or welding on the ROPS. I took a stroll through my local TSC and came up with a plan. A pair of these brackets can be made and installed in less than an hour, not counting the drying time for paint. They can be mounted on the top or sides of the ROP, with the lights to either the top, bottom, inside, or outside. They cost me less than $10 to make a pair, which saved me $50 - $110 compared to a pair of the brackets my dealer sells.

I bought the following at TSC, enough to make a pair of brackets:
2-Square U-bolts, 2" x 5" x 5/16"
2-U-Bolt Plates, 2" x 5/16"
2-Corner Braces (L-brackets), 5" x 1"
1 foot of 5/16" poly tubing
4 extra 5/16" nuts and lock washers.

I cut the L-brackets (7/8" off one end and 2 7/8" off the other end) and the U-bolts (1" of threads cut off each end) to get rid of the extra metal. I re-drilled the existing hole that was left in the short leg of the L-bracket to match the bolt size from my lights (3/8" in my case). On the long leg of the bracket I measured 2 3/8" on center from the hole closest to the bend and drilled a 3/8" hole for the U-bolt (3/8" rather than 5/16" to make it easier to mount). Holes in these brackets come 'off center' so I drilled this new hole in line with the pre-drilled hole to keep the bracket plum when mounted. I rounded the sharp edges with a file and painted the parts black to blend in with the ROP.
I cut 4 pieces of poly tube 3" long, and 2 that were 2". After the paint was dry on the metal, I used warm water and dish soap to help slide the 2" pieces of tube on the U-bolts, around the bend and onto the 2" section. Then add a 3" piece on each long side. You could use heat-shrink tubing rather than the poly tube I used. Cut 2 pieces of thin rubber, slightly larger than the U-bolt plates. I used an old computer mouse pad for this. Punch a hole in each end of the rubber pieces to line up with the U-bolt ends (2 3/8" on center).
Slide the U-bolt onto the ROP, from the front to the back. Slip the rubber cushion over the bolt ends, and then add the U-bolt plate and a nut on each bolt end. Snug it up with a wrench. Slide the long leg of the modified L-bracket over the bolt ends, with the short leg over the top of the ROP pointing towards the front of the tractor. Add lock washers and nuts, then tighten. The bolt from the light is mounted on the top short leg through the hole you re-drilled.
In the pictures below, you can see the pieces laid out in order and then assembled. The metal and bolt ends that were cut off are along the top of one picture and are not painted.
I used the U-bolt plates rather than just the L-brackets to tighten it to the ROP. I liked the idea of snugging up the U-bolt with the added padding of the tubing and rubber, to just the right tension, and still allowing the L-bracket to be tightened hard against the first nuts so they won稚 vibrate loose. The U-bolt plates, tubing, and rubber cushion could be skipped to make an easy bracket as well.
My ROP is 2" x 3". You could make this work for a 2" x 2" ROP by cutting an extra inch off the bolts, or by buying shorter bolts.

Very nice idea. I ended up using bolt on trailer tie downs, and some flat metal. It just so happened that they were almost a perfect fit over the rops of the BX-23.

[Ford850]

I mounted them, but took them off thinking I would use heat-shrink tubing. After playing around with them I realized that the original poly tubing is needed to get the snug fit I want. When I have time I'll stick them back on with the lights and run the wires. I will run the wires in a loom, zip tied to the back or underside of the ROPS. My ROPS is welded closed on all ends so I cannot run the wires inside it like I hoped. I'll try to take some pictures when I'm done, but as you can see my camera is poor at best.

[Ford850]

After upgrading my lights to Hobbs, I got them re-mounted. The mounts worked well and I am pleased with the clean look. The amount of light they provide over the snow blade is amazing compared to the original tractor lights. The wires are zip tied to the ROPS and I can still fold it without any problems. The mounts allowed me to move them to spot on the ROPS that clears the fender and SMV sign when folded.
I also added a couple of thin plastic washers to each light post between the light and my bracket. I have them tightened really snug, but I can still spin them to the front or rear without loosening anything, thanks to the slippery plastic.

[Ford850]

A few things about the light brackets I made:

1) If you use the rubber padding, you won't need to cut the pieces as long. After punching the holes and mounting-unmounting-remounting, I found it worked better to have the pads just long enough to cover the widht of the ROPS and not extend past the bolts so I trimmed them shorter (no need to punch holes that way).

2) You can eliminate the U-bolt plates and first nuts if you don't plan to re-adjust the lights while the mounts are locked in place. Just add the rubber pad, then the L-Bracket and finally the lock washer and nut. It will actually be a cleaner mount this way since the U-Bolt Plate is so thin it bends somewhat when you tighten the nuts.

3) The tubing makes the U-Bot fit snug on the ROPS. It actually spreads the ends of the bolt apart as you push it on. I needed a clamp to squeeze the bolt ends together (pinching it to the ROPS) so I could get the U-Bolt Plate and L-Bracket over the bolt ends. That makes the mounts snug when you are done and they do not slide around.

[nate_m]

If you drive under/around any trees, you'll be picking broken glass out of your hair. Don't ask me how I know this.
My work light is now mounted to the underside of the ROPS and the blinkers are mounted on the inside.

[Ford850]

Originally Posted by nate_m

If you drive under/around any trees, you'll be picking broken glass out of your hair. Don't ask me how I know this.
My work light is now mounted to the underside of the ROPS and the blinkers are mounted on the inside.

No doubt. That's why I used the U-Bolt plate too, so I can spin off 2 nuts and the lights will come off while leaving the mounts intact. That way I can turn them 180 degrees to put the lights inside the ROPS like you did if I need to work in the trees. At this point I don't have to worry about that so it's nice to have the higher lights that aren't behind my head.

[nate_m]

Originally Posted by Ford850

At this point I don't have to worry about that so it's nice to have the higher lights that aren't behind my head.

Yep, if I am wearing my winter hat with the fuzzy ball on top, it leaves a shadow.