Should I concrete the fence posts or not

   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #1  

TrueCountry

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I am building a pipe fence for about 8 acres. I have been told by some people to use the auger on the tractor and dig the holes then set the posts in conrete. The posts are going to be 4 1/2 tall and buried in the ground about 18 inches. I have also been told that if I drive the posts in the ground 18 inches then weld the pipe top rail on the fence it will not have to be concreted in the ground. If at all possible I would love to do it without having to concrete the pipe in the ground, because that saves money and work. Some say that when it is welded together it will be strong enough not to move when a horse leans on it. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #2  
I don't know much about pipe fences. 18" seems very marginal for depth if just set in the ground without concrete.
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #3  
TrueCountry
It depends were you are at (nothing in profile) but if you only go down 18" and concrete around it and frost line is below that it will heave and lift post out when it freezes. I set my wifes closeline 2" pipe in holes about 3' deep put 6" stone in bottom set post with more stone tamping it in good to 3" from grade and put dirt back in to grade and they have never move in 20 years.

I beleave in letting them drain (stone) to keep from heaving.

tom
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #4  
TrueCountry said:
I am building a pipe fence for about 8 acres. I have been told by some people to use the auger on the tractor and dig the holes then set the posts in conrete. The posts are going to be 4 1/2 tall and buried in the ground about 18 inches. I have also been told that if I drive the posts in the ground 18 inches then weld the pipe top rail on the fence it will not have to be concreted in the ground. If at all possible I would love to do it without having to concrete the pipe in the ground, because that saves money and work. Some say that when it is welded together it will be strong enough not to move when a horse leans on it. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

That would work if the soil is stable. The kind you find in the desert southwest. If the pipe you're talking about is eight or ten inch in diameter then I could believe it would hold it's shape without a footer.

If you're in Texas and live in an area with expansive soils (clay) or if you're up north where you have a frost line then you're eighteen inch footers will not work worth a flip. You'll have a lot of money and effort in a friendly fence, one that waves and waves and waves and waves.

I did three to four foot deep twelve inch holes and fill them with concrete and there's still movement here in north Texas. Out west we could go down three feet and an eight inch hole and it would live straight forever.
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #5  
I see allot of 6ft wood privacy fences that have the posts 2 feet deep with a sack of concrete poured around them in my area. These only seem to be in areas with allot of sand, which explains how they stay straight over the years. My job is to rebuild these fences when they rot out for clients. I'm not a fence builder, so I pretty much stick with the original plan of the fence that's there and make it better.

My understanding is that you need to be deep enough so that the post will not move or come out. If you are in sandy soil, you might get away with 2 feet like those wood privacy fences that I repair, but that's about it.

The difference between a good fence that will last decades and a lousy one that moves and falls apart is the degree of shortcuts you take in building it.

Eddie
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #6  
I agree with Eddie, cutting corners will usually end up costing you. I have built alot of pipe fence, I always go at least 24 inches deep min. and always use sakcrete, thats 80 more pounds in the ground to help you. Always bevel the cement Away from the pipe for water runoff at or just above ground surface.

I even use cement if I have to core into rock if the hole is larger than the pipe.

Remember to leave an expansion joint in your top rail every 100' or so to keep it from ripping apart when freeze/thaw cycle comes around. easiest way I have found, at 100' weld a piece of larger pipe to finished end that is 1 size bigger that top rail pipe, then just slide next top rail into that like a sleeve and continue on.
Good luck,
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #7  
TrueCountry - you may want to update your profile and include your location.... if, for example, you live in the frozen north, I would suggest that concrete around posts that are set less than 3++ feet will only make it easy for the frost to heave the posts.

~Paul
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #8  
Here in E Texas I have put a lot of pipe corners in our sandy loam soil. Until our years long drought that ended last year, we nearly always hit water by the time we had our 3' holes dug w/ the auger. I have used sack 'crete, I have mixed concrete in a tub and I have just poured the stuff in the hole dry and let it set up. Seems to be 6 in one and a half dozen in the other as to which works best. I have also used pea gravel on a set of working pens and not had any posts pull up. I am beginning to lean towards giving the water somewhere to go and having a little "give" in the pipe sections for heat/cold contraction/expansion. So far, nothing has come out of the ground, but I always go at least 2' and 3' if I can get it. Plus it just doesn't get that cold around here usually.
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #9  
Western said:
I agree with Eddie, cutting corners will usually end up costing you. I have built alot of pipe fence, I always go at least 24 inches deep min. and always use sakcrete, thats 80 more pounds in the ground to help you. Always bevel the cement Away from the pipe for water runoff at or just above ground surface.

I even use cement if I have to core into rock if the hole is larger than the pipe.

Remember to leave an expansion joint in your top rail every 100' or so to keep it from ripping apart when freeze/thaw cycle comes around. easiest way I have found, at 100' weld a piece of larger pipe to finished end that is 1 size bigger that top rail pipe, then just slide next top rail into that like a sleeve and continue on.
Good luck,

I would never have thought to do that. Great idea and makes perfect sense. Thanks.:)
 
   / Should I concrete the fence posts or not #10  
TrueCountry said:
I am building a pipe fence for about 8 acres. I have been told by some people to use the auger on the tractor and dig the holes then set the posts in conrete. The posts are going to be 4 1/2 tall and buried in the ground about 18 inches. I have also been told that if I drive the posts in the ground 18 inches then weld the pipe top rail on the fence it will not have to be concreted in the ground. If at all possible I would love to do it without having to concrete the pipe in the ground, because that saves money and work. Some say that when it is welded together it will be strong enough not to move when a horse leans on it. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Any fence post put ONLY 18" into the ground...you'll be able to push over by HAND in 2 years time
 
 
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