Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas
- Thread starter cdhd2001
- Start date
BigE_
Platinum Member
cdhd2001 said:
Man, you don't want those going anywhere, do you?
On a small structure, I generally use the 1/2" by 2" staples on OSB. Cheap, quick, easy. Every 6-8" around the edges, and every 12" or so in the field. Note that this is NOT hurricane proof type roofing, but I worry more about a tree falling on the structure vs. a hurricane in my part of the country. (I believe I read that in Florida you aren't even allowed to use OSB on the roof anymore.)
If you are worried about hurricane, use the 2" long ridged nails. I shoot one of those suckers into a piece of OSB / 2x4 combo, and I end up ripping the head off before nail comes out.
mikim
Veteran Member
Cheap, quick, easy.
My Dad's idea of a good job ..... but his jobs never lasted worth a hoot and he was always having to redo them ....which is why I much prefer "doing it RIGHT the first time" over "cheap, quick, easy" which will get you nothing but headaches. ---
My Dad's idea of a good job ..... but his jobs never lasted worth a hoot and he was always having to redo them ....which is why I much prefer "doing it RIGHT the first time" over "cheap, quick, easy" which will get you nothing but headaches. ---
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
ampsucker said:
I've always been told and my dealer recomends fastening metal on the flats. This eliminates any flex in the metal and keeps the roofing material dead solid against the purlins.
I buy from Muellers, which is a pretty big outfit in this part of the country. They manufacture all there own products and have engineers to design what you need. Some companies are actually just salesman who sell metal for a manufacturer. Be careful when dealing with them because the salesman doesn't have anything to do with the actual metal, he's just placing the order and making a commision. These companies have allot of different names, and most of them are advertised pretty heavily. I don't trust salesman who sell other companies products. It's just too hard to get anywhere with them when you have a problem.
There was a thread awhile ago where others mentioned that their suppliers said otherwise and to fasten through the ridges of the metal. I've never seen this before and until I read the links posted to those manufactures, didn't believe it.
Not being an expert on this, it would appear that both ways are correct depending on who you buy your metal from. My roof, and those that I've done for others, are always screwed down through the flat part of the metal.
Airflow is another good way to cut down on condensation on metal roofs. Of course, there will always be some degree of it unless you seal it off from the bottom. I like the idea of the decking with felt, but haven't done that yet. I'm also thinking about trying some of those spray on foam kits that give you an inch of foam over the inside of the metal. I have a problem in one spot of my roof that doesn't get any air flow, so that's an issue I'm working on. I just hate paying $600 for the foam spray.
Eddie
denmansoft
Gold Member
Out here on the wet coast decking a roof with OSB and then metal can turn ugly. One neighbor did this about 10 years ago. A few leaks around the screws destroyed the osb. The new owner is now faced with ripping it all off and starting again.
Sully2
Veteran Member
cdhd2001 said:I am trying to get my final design together for my tractor shed. Would love to have some ideas, advice, help, etc.
Dimensions:
Pole barn style construction.
16' wide by 24' long. 8-10 ft. height.
4x4 treated posts on 8 ft. centers.
double 2x8 top girts
Roof will be 3:12 pitch with 26 ga. R-panel.
The roof layout is my biggest point of indecision. I am trying to design for 30 psf roof load, no snow (Texas). Should I do trusses or rafters? 24" O.C. with 1/2" OSB decking or XX" O.C. with purlins? I am leaning towards purlins but am unsure what to use for rafter/trusses and what spacing.
Thanks!
I'd swap the corner posts for 4 x 6's ( instead of 4 x 4's) and by all means use trussed....24" O.C.
Dont know about your location...but I can buy pre-made trusses cheaper than I can buy just the material and have to make them myself!
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
(For ideas only, the engineering of your building is your responsibility.)
I used power pole posts and mostly lumber I had on hand. The poles are in a 16 x 32' pattern on 8' centers. The diagonal post braces were placed while setting the trusses to account for variations in post size / placement. My posts only go 8' above the ground so the trusses were designed to provide extra clearance. They are full rough cut 2x10. Gussets are glued and nailed. The purlins are 2x8s on joist hangers.
Pics are in reverse order.
Brad
I used power pole posts and mostly lumber I had on hand. The poles are in a 16 x 32' pattern on 8' centers. The diagonal post braces were placed while setting the trusses to account for variations in post size / placement. My posts only go 8' above the ground so the trusses were designed to provide extra clearance. They are full rough cut 2x10. Gussets are glued and nailed. The purlins are 2x8s on joist hangers.
Pics are in reverse order.
Brad
Brad_Blazer said:
Cool! Very informative.
The post size and spacing I took from a University of Tenn. design drawing for a 24'x24' garage.
I was thinking of installing a 10' roll up door and adding an additional set of posts on either side. Extra post on the rear wall also.
RobJ
Elite Member
denmansoft said:
Sounds like they didn't install it correctly. If there is no OSB then there is always something else. Insulation, sheetrock, 50" plasma tv, hardwood floor!!
Sully2
Veteran Member
RobJ said:
I had a scrap piece of OSB laying around here after my home was built..and I propped it up against a tree..outside..no protection and there it stood for a full 5 years. Not one bit of delination on it. I finally tossed it into the burn pile because I got sick of looking at it.