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#1 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
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I am looking in to building a 2 stall horse barn on my property. I was thinking 24x20 with a hay loft would be plenty (I don't want to make it any bigger or the wife will buy more horses
) The previous owners at one point decided to start to build a shed but they never got passed the foundation. This slab is 15' by 10' and it is right where I want to build. I was going to have it torn out and start with a clean site. I dug some areas around the slab to see what I was dealing with. This is what I found:![]() ![]() The slab is 1 foot thick and every 4-5 feet around the perimiter is a 10 inch diameter footing that goes down 48 inches. Now the problem, I still want to build on this site. but ripping out that much concrete and having the area filled leveled and compacted will raise the cost of the project beyond what I can do right now. I cant do a pole barn on this site with out being able to put the footings in the middle. I was looking into the Socket Systems Gable frame kits, allowing me to have a 24ft clear span. I would dig the piers along the outside of the existing slab then I would drill the existing slab and place in rebar and rebar mesh and extend the slab. I do know that where the existing slab meets the new concrete will crack but its a horse barn the entire floor will be covered in rubber mats. Does any one have any experience with these Socket system kits? (I did do a search and some reading most of the links and pictures have been broken since all posts are over a year old) Does any one have any other suggestions? Thanks
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Matt BX 24 LA240 FEL, BT601 Backhoe, 54'' MMM, Patu DC 40 Chipper, 5ft LandScape Rake, FEL Snow Plow, ATI FEL Quick Attach, TracVac with QA mower boot, Workforce Post Hole Digger |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ottawa/Gatineau, Canada
Posts: 76
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It would be a shame tearing out a nice free
slab like that. I would alter my layout a bit and incorporate that slab as an extension building to the new stable - There's aways a need for another building somewhere on a horse farm. In fact, that building could become the insulated tack room and you can then squeeze in one more horse in the new stable This is a time for some creative planning...
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Happiness is a clean zerk! Bx24 with mower, Kubota rotary tiller, Greenline PHD w/9" auger, Walco 48" Rotory Cutter, Bro-Tek skid plates and thumb. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
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Quote:
That previous owners didnt have any concept layout. the slab is not parrallel with the house or even the property lines. Its just sorta out there in the middle of the feild.
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Matt BX 24 LA240 FEL, BT601 Backhoe, 54'' MMM, Patu DC 40 Chipper, 5ft LandScape Rake, FEL Snow Plow, ATI FEL Quick Attach, TracVac with QA mower boot, Workforce Post Hole Digger |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: MA & TN
Posts: 1,850
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Perhaps you could build your horse barn (with stalls) right beside it, and let the slab be the foundation of a "lean-to" tractor and equipment shed attached to one side of the barn...
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#5 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 138
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I like the ones they have at barnplans.com. There's a wide variety of sizes. You build the side walls first, then lay out a pattern on the deck for your trusses. That way, the trusses are already up on the top deck. I like the socket system, but when you add up all the materials, it does raise the cost a bit.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Livingston county, Michigan
Posts: 51
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Quote:
Paul Paul |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: LaGrange, Ohio
Posts: 900
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The slab is probably not 12" thick. What I think you have is called a slab on grade foundation, with piers, (The piers are overkill, unless this is in a swamp). The outer edge is 12" thick. But, If you drill a few holes in the middle of the slab, I bet you will find it is only 4" thick. If so, demolition with an electric pavement breaker is possible.
I would find a way to use it, even if it is as a porch. |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Matt BX 24 LA240 FEL, BT601 Backhoe, 54'' MMM, Patu DC 40 Chipper, 5ft LandScape Rake, FEL Snow Plow, ATI FEL Quick Attach, TracVac with QA mower boot, Workforce Post Hole Digger |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 7,971
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Is the slab where you want the horse barn to be located? Or are you locating the barn where the slab is because it's already there? If it's where you want it to be, then incorporating it into the design of the building makes sense. Since you mentioned that it's not ligned up with the house or property line, I'm wondering if you'll be happy with the horse barn being there over the long term?
It's a real shame to not take advantage of what's available, but sometimes it costs more to try to use existing mistakes then it does to tear it out and start all over fresh. If you plan to live there for awhile, then doing it right should be more important then saving a buck and and avoiding a fews days of labor. Renting a jackhammer and removing it isn't all that dificult, it's just time consuming. Do you want concrete under the horses? Before you do anything, you should have a plan that you are 100% excited about. Figure out your demensions based on what it will be used for and then decide on the best type of construction for your area. There is always more then one way to build anything, and weather, soil and Code all come into play when making that decision. As for the socket system, I'm not a fan of it. Price out the pieces and you are not saving any money. Strength wise, it might be alright. If it passes code in your area, that would be acceptable, but again, it's not going to save you any money. It looks simple, but then standard stick framing is about as simple as it gets too. Just buy a book on framing homes and learn about headers, jack, king and cripple studs. For a simple building like what you want to build, it's very straight forward. A metal kit from Muellers or a few other companies might be an option too. Morton has all sorts of really nice looking buildings, but I've heard both good and bad about them. It really depends on where you are and who you get. For a do it yourselfer, Morton is good for ideas. From what I understand, a good size for a horse stall is 12x12. For two stalls, you would want the building to be 12x24. I'd add an 8ft storage area in between the two stalls to make the barn 12x32 at a minimum. Then I'd consider how much of an overhang I wanted in front of the doors to create shade and to keep the rain off of them. 4ft would be the minimum and would need posts to support it. I'd go 8ft and create an area in front of the doors to groom the horses while I was at it. That would mean a roof that was 20x32 for a two horse stall barn. I'd also consider the future needs of adding on to the building and situate it so that you could extend it longer in one direction or both. The nice thing about a rectangular building is that it can be made longer relatively easily. Remember, a rectangle is the cheapest, most efficient building to build. Eddie
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My Goals for 2008 1. Fishing and Hunting with my kids. 2. Build my storage Shed. 3. Put my outside access bathroom together. 4. Fence in a quarter acre for Turkeys. 5. Build my gazebo for my front pasture. 6. Finish back pasture and plant it in Bermuda. 7. Start my food plots. 8. Build a comfortable deer stand for two. 9. Build a wood burning fireplace in my home. 10. New flooring in my home. 11. Build a pasture sprayer. 12. Get my old jeep running. |
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