Bridge Project (he only comes here when he wants something)

[YM-135trac]

Originally Posted by EddieWalker

Yes, the bags will do the job, but you have to be sure to get them under the culverts too. Then when they are all in place and rebar is driven through them, you have to pour loose sacks in between the culverts to fill that cavity. Like everything, it's all about the small details.

If it was me, I think I'd reset the culvert, then build a form with plywood and lumber to pour a solid wall. The angle of the culvert won't matter if the entrance and exit of the culverts is protected by cement. Left unprotected, the water will just keep wearing away at the edges of the culverts until they fail. It's a time thing, and water always wins with enough time.

Another option would be to pour a brick ledge on the concrete wall and tell the client that you could come back at a later time when they have the money and put in rock vineer. With the brick ledge in place, you could do this at any time and until then, it would still look good. You might get two jobs out of one!!!

Eddie

Right-on Eddie. turbulance at entrance/exit of culvert does have soil cutting/wash-out characteristics. once culvert is down, too late to put bags under culvert w/out lots of work.

[jinman]

Originally Posted by TomPenny

here is a Ford crossing a ford.

Very nice!

That picture shows what is required for that type of crossing: a fairly flat approach and exit ramp. That means you would have to cut down the sides of the ditch and then protect at least the downstream sides with concrete or riprap. In your photo, the wide, shallow stream is ideal for that type crossing. With your ditch, quite a bit of soil will require removal.

[TomPenny]

his price was $4500.00 and that included a top slab/drive.

It did not include excavating or re-setting the culvert. I added 2k to A. Make 20% B. excavation/misc

that being said if I am high it's only by 500 or so.

Good catch though Eddie your pretty much on the dot....when can you start

[mikim]

I received 5 1/2 inches of rain in 24 hours
Big Deal ... last memorial day I got 10 inches in 2 hrs ....course the house flooded. arrrrrgh! and I wasn't even home.

[YM-135trac]

Originally Posted by jinman

I like the street bridge, but there is no way your client could afford something like that. What I like best is the picture in your second post.
Single Culvert

I also like no culvert at all with the bottom of the creek concreted so you could do a low-water crossing. I think the chances of needing to cross the bridge when it is raining hard and the ditch is full of water are pretty slim. I believe a low-water crossing would work just fine.

Look closely at pic whats going on at water level? bottom of culvert, nice concrete job being undermine. Concrete not under culvert as Eddie says. This won't happen w/Eddie's dike/concrete bag/culvert build.

[b_z_genius]

Maybe I am just seeing things but is that electric wires going throught the washed out culverts? Any Lights in the area? May just be my eyes but sure looks like wiring runing on top of the culverts.



Post#17 3rd picture

[crashz]

I didn't see it mentioned but what about a pre-cast box culvert. Size it for the full width of the stream embankments, dig out the old stuff and replace. Be sure the top of the bottom slab is slightly lower tha the stream bed, keep it fairly level and back fill the approaches with gravel. You could heven have holes cast for railings.

[TomPenny]

nah there are no wires there...


had another guy out yesterday. His price included the excavation, insisted in 12' piers, no top slab same price.

I was looking at the water lines and this place really dams up. I tend to get as high as the culvert when it down pours.

Its the bend in the stream, the culverts direction and I guess lay past the culverts. At any rate, wonder if a bridge is not a better choice all things considered. I could do most of it myself. If I put a footer on each side with a ledge, attach i-beams or thick walled tubing to span the creek, deck it with either wood or expanded metal.

Then I could easily do some attractive, sturdy railings.

This would allow me to excavate and clean out the area.

My first concern to this idea is how far back to put the footers to prevent errosion up to them

[YM-135trac]

Originally Posted by TomPenny

nah there are no wires there...


had another guy out yesterday. His price included the excavation, insisted in 12' piers, no top slab same price.

I was looking at the water lines and this place really dams up. I tend to get as high as the culvert when it down pours.

Its the bend in the stream, the culverts direction and I guess lay past the culverts. At any rate, wonder if a bridge is not a better choice all things considered. I could do most of it myself. If I put a footer on each side with a ledge, attach i-beams or thick walled tubing to span the creek, deck it with either wood or expanded metal.

Then I could easily do some attractive, sturdy railings.

This would allow me to excavate and clean out the area.

My first concern to this idea is how far back to put the footers to prevent errosion up to them

12' piers? expand-metal=squshy deck(no weight support). put footers as high up on the bank as possible(bridge span permits) out of flow-keeps thrash from hanging-up on piers as water flows through. As to the I-beam thingy? the float has 2 I-beams under w/cross-brace every ft.?ithink? then side stake pocket beams. I would hate to buy all that $teel today.

On the float(trailer) bridge we used 3' wide(comercial bldg siding) cut-offs up rite gently pushed down(trac-hoe) into dirt(coregation, makes stronger than you think, pushes like knife in soft-med soft ground)& nailed to tie-beam(between pilings) w/wings going back to top of ditch. done only to keep turbulance from undermining bridge dirt approaches. Any kind of mini-wall can be used to prevent approach wash? wash on pilings no problem-little or no turbulance w/open bridge. pilings only 4-5' deep. supports 9000# tractor/tools,no problem.

[TomPenny]

YM go look at these guys,
Home