Pole Shed Project - Input Always Welcome

[DocD]

Recently I have started a project that I have been working and saving for a number of years. I must admit it is great to see this come together but it is getting rediculous how much steel and general building materials are costing these days. My new shed will be 40X90X16. My shop part will be 40X42 with all walls insulated and finished in steel. The other half 40X48 will be cold storage. It will be all cement flooring and the shop part will have in-floor heat. As you can see I have planned for 5th wheel camper or tall equipment with 14' overhead doors.

I do have questions about the lighting and all input would be welcome. I plan to do fluorescent lighting in the shop part and incandecent in the cold storage along with the eave lighting.

As you can see I also treated myself to a little 3720 JD cab - it is really a nice little machine!

 

[BobG_in_VA]

WOO HOO! Nice Doghouse!! Someone has finally built what I have been thinkin' ! Great job. Get us pics of the inside where your shop will be... BobG in VA

 

[Redbug]

I'm impressed with your pole building, too. I plan to build one in the future and learning with the rest of the gang. You can never have too small of a building and not have enough cement...

 

[keving]

Recently I have started a project that I have been working and saving for a number of years. I must admit it is great to see this come together but it is getting rediculous how much steel and general building materials are costing these days. My new shed will be 40X90X16. My shop part will be 40X42 with all walls insulated and finished in steel. The other half 40X48 will be cold storage. It will be all cement flooring and the shop part will have in-floor heat. As you can see I have planned for 5th wheel camper or tall equipment with 14' overhead doors.

I do have questions about the lighting and all input would be welcome. I plan to do fluorescent lighting in the shop part and incandecent in the cold storage along with the eave lighting.

As you can see I also treated myself to a little 3720 JD cab - it is really a nice little machine!

Nice. I like the color scheme. Check out my pole barn thread and I'll be glad to provide any input!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/97677-pole-barn-project-pics-40x72x14.html

 

[landman]

WOW, i wouldnt know what to do whith all that space,... Nice building, wish i had that much flat land for mine.

 

[keving]

WOW, i wouldnt know what to do whith all that space,... Nice building, wish i had that much flat land for mine.

I'm sure you could find use for all that space!

This forum is a great place for info and opinion. Please post pics of your progress. Happy building!

 

[mjncad]

Recently I have started a project that I have been working and saving for a number of years. I must admit it is great to see this come together but it is getting rediculous how much steel and general building materials are costing these days. My new shed will be 40X90X16. My shop part will be 40X42 with all walls insulated and finished in steel. The other half 40X48 will be cold storage. It will be all cement flooring and the shop part will have in-floor heat. As you can see I have planned for 5th wheel camper or tall equipment with 14' overhead doors.

I do have questions about the lighting and all input would be welcome. I plan to do fluorescent lighting in the shop part and incandecent in the cold storage along with the eave lighting.

As you can see I also treated myself to a little 3720 JD cab - it is really a nice little machine!

I would consider low or high bay lighting instead of fluorescent for general lighting. You should be able to get by with far fewer fixtures this way. Use the fluorescent lighting for task lighting at work benches and machine tools.

I would also use the fluorescent lighting in the cold side as well. Cheaper to run, and you have to change bulbs less often. Even if you don't turn the lights on often in the cold side, an incandescent bulb always seems to burn out when you are in the middle of something more important.

I like heated floors; but I am leery of in-floor heat for a shop for the following reason; bolting machinery (e.g. lathes, bandsaws, etc) to the floor becomes problematic unless you know exactly where your heat tubes are. You might consider gas/propane fired radiant heat tubes you hang from the ceiling.

Have fun with your new toy box.

 

[DocD]

I would consider low or high bay lighting instead of fluorescent for general lighting. You should be able to get by with far fewer fixtures this way. Use the fluorescent lighting for task lighting at work benches and machine tools.

The inside of the shop part will have white steel ceiling and walls - I would like to stay with the fluorescents as I think they will be cheaper and easier to install.

I would also use the fluorescent lighting in the cold side as well. Cheaper to run, and you have to change bulbs less often. Even if you don't turn the lights on often in the cold side, an incandescent bulb always seems to burn out when you are in the middle of something more important.

The fluorescents will be way more expensive as I would have to get the cold starting ones as it could get as low as 20 - 30 below zero in that part in the dead of winter.

I like heated floors; but I am leery of in-floor heat for a shop for the following reason; bolting machinery (e.g. lathes, bandsaws, etc) to the floor becomes problematic unless you know exactly where your heat tubes are.

I will know exactly were the tubes are as I will measure and map all tubes once they are installed.

You might consider gas/propane fired radiant heat tubes you hang from the ceiling.

I did consider this option and will use the propane heater to bring the temp. from 55 degrees to a comfortable level when I am working in the shop as I will have both infloor and propane heat - but with propane prices and with off-peak electricity - it will be WAY cheaper in the long run to maintain 55 degrees with infloor heat and use the propane heater only when I am actually in the shop.

 

[DocD]

I do have a few more questions for the experts here.... My contractor is telling me that I do not need rebar for my concrete floor. We are currenly set to put down 2 inch 250 density foam insulation - then the pex tubing - then pour on top of this 4 inches of concrete with fiber mesh. Is this a good plan? My biggest equipment may be a triple axle 5th wheel 12,000# trailer some day but otherwise nothing bigger.

My next question is about wiring. I now have planned a 200 AMP service with the electric boiler and am planning to run outlets every 6 feet with conduit on the interior of the shop (over the steel lining). Also will use fluorescent lighting in the shop part and regular 300 watt bulbs in the cold storage part.

I am planning a small office type area in the shop also with a sink, desk, computer, and a small bathroom with stool. I figure this will be heated by the in-floor heat and a small space heater and I am planning for a window airconditioner on the hotter days. Since I have 16ft. sidewalls, I will also have storage above to put stuff on pallets for storage (see new tractor above - also got the loader forks for lifting "stuff" up for storage).

It's my dream shop so any other comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks,
DW

 

[mjncad]

I do have a few more questions for the experts here.... My contractor is telling me that I do not need rebar for my concrete floor. We are currenly set to put down 2 inch 250 density foam insulation - then the pex tubing - then pour on top of this 4 inches of concrete with fiber mesh. Is this a good plan? My biggest equipment may be a triple axle 5th wheel 12,000# trailer some day but otherwise nothing bigger. No need for rebar! I think your contractor is full of crap! Put in the rebar since you will have all that PEX in the floor creating weak spots to begin with. Plus the rebar will give you tie points for the PEX tubing to keep it from floating around as the concrete is poured and finished. All your mapping will be for naught if that tubing moves around and you don't know where it wandered off to. If you can afford it, I'd go with 6" concrete. The fiberglass in the concrete is added insurance; not a replacement for rebar. Adding rebar upfront is a whole lot cheaper than later should your floor crack and heave and tear your PEX apart. I would think the PEX should be encased in the concrete, and as written, your contractor will have the PEX exposed on the bottom. At least he's putting down insulation. Is the insulation expanded or extruded polystyrene foam sheet? Extruded is better.

My next question is about wiring. I now have planned a 200 AMP service with the electric boiler and am planning to run outlets every 6 feet with conduit on the interior of the shop (over the steel lining). Also will use fluorescent lighting in the shop part and regular 300 watt bulbs in the cold storage part. Would a natural gas or propane boiler be cheaper to run in Minnesota? In Colorado, I'd be paying Xcel less for gas than electricity to fire that boiler.

I am planning a small office type area in the shop also with a sink, desk, computer, and a small bathroom with stool. I figure this will be heated by the in-floor heat and a small space heater and I am planning for a window airconditioner on the hotter days. Since I have 16ft. sidewalls, I will also have storage above to put stuff on pallets for storage (see new tractor above - also got the loader forks for lifting "stuff" up for storage). GOOD planning!

It's my dream shop so any other comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks,
DW

High or low bay lighting may be less expensive than you think, and you can get it in a variety of voltage ratings to suit your electrical service. I also doubt it's that much more difficult to install other than the fixtures are bulkier. I suggest you check into it before writing it off completely.

I can see your desire for infloor heat in cold St. Cloud. I have a friend who used to live in Sartell; but just moved back to her childhood home in Sauk Center. Stay warm and have fun in the winter.