Progress w/pics and questions about ACQ lumber.

[Chuck K.]

First off many thanks to all the helpful information and advice on the shed.

Here is the link to original post: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ding-lean.html

We did deviate from the original plan somewhat..


The gumbo mud was so hard we had to modify the pilot bit on the 12' auger with a Pengo pilot which help a lot


#3 rebar left over for the shop foundation went to good use.


Coming alone painfully slow



Safety police hold yur fire this I my version of the redneck manlift basket.. It worked fine hope to build a nice one out of DOM tubing after the shop is finished.


Ready for the roof metal then framing in the 10' enclosed area.

We used a framing gun with standard nails.. The question came up if the nails where hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel that are required for the ACQ treated lumber.. Well this was a real show stopper to say the least. After some searching on the net seems this is true. To improvise I used 3-1/2" deckmate screws which are compatable with ACQ treated lumber.

Now comes the question are there screw fastners the type used on metal shops self tapping with washer that would work with the ACQ lumber??

The only type I have used appear to be carbon steel with no coating of any type. IF ACQ lumber is as corrosive as they claim they would quickly be destroyed...

Thanks for any ideas.. Chuck.

[wroughtn_harv]

I wonder why you used the treated for the framing. Where you're at you could have gotten some cypress planks and had more durability and no issues with the corrosive nature of the treated.

You're options as I see it are to either replace all your wood that will contact metal.

Install pine or spruce bats along side the existing treated framework to provide a protective barrier for your metal contacts.

Another option would be to find stainless fasteners. They are available. They will be horrendously expensive compared to carbon fasteners.

Keep in mind back in the day they installed metal siding without screws. They used nails and lead washers. You could use hot dip galvanized nails or your deckmate screws along with neoprene bonded steel washers.

What you've done looks good. I just wish you hadn't used treated lumber.

[EddieWalker]

The only place that you need to use preasure treated wood are where they contact the soil, cement or are exposed to the elements. But what is done, is done.

I would also go over all your connections with 3 inch deck screws rated for ACQ lumber. A 25 poud box of screws is cheap insurance and they will only make the building stronger.

Who are you buying your metal from? I like Muellers, and have no problem recomending them. I would contact them and ask them what type of screws they have available for ACQ lumber. I'd be very suprised if they didn't have something for you. Their prices are always really good, and with the size of your building, it won't be all the huge of an expense.

One thing to add to your quandry is wether your joist hangers are rated for preasure treated lumber? Some are, some are not. Then you might want to ask if the metal will be alright on it? I honestly don't know the answer as it's never come up. Is the paint on the underside of the panels enough? Is there even an issue? Can you put felt paper or insulation over the purlins to seperate the metal from the wood if it is an issue?

The joys of building are dealing with all the suprises.

Eddie

[Chuck K.]

Hi Harv, like Eddie's I always enjoy your posts and pictures actually quite jealous of ya'lls talent In my ignorance of the new ACQ lumber properties my reasoning for using ACQ 2x4 nailers was in the event the washer around the screw leaked I would not have an issue with water rotting out the nailer.. Still had the old CCA stuff in mind I suppose..

Oh I remember the old lead head nails used with corrigated tin seems we use to nail those on the high point of the rib instead of the low point that actually contacts the nailer if my memory serves me right

Eddie thanks for the tip on the fastner store will have to check them out.. Yep the joy factor of building is multiplied many times in this heat particularly when ya really dont know what the heck your doing

Now here is a Zinger, maybe some can explain this, it is a quote from
"ACQ Pressure Treated Wood Fastener Information Sheet"
Dry Use Applications
When ACQ pressure-treated wood is used for interior applications with continuous dry conditions, where the wood in service will remain below 19% equilibrium moisture content, the performance of fasteners, hardware and other metal products in contact with the treated wood should be similar to that experienced with untreated wood.

How in the world does one know if you meet this requirement:
19% equilibrium moisture content I may have to ask one of the Chemical Engineers here at the plant LOL..

Thanks for the help.. Chuck.

[Redbug]

Interesting thread. I also have done some reading on the ACQ lumber, but did not know the dry condition fact. I do not know, (and also wonder), how the 19% equilibrium moisture content compares to where you live, (relative humidities inside a pole barn). That is...I wonder if 19% in the wood could also be in the Pacific Northwest or Florida where there's high RH's? What is the normal moisture content of dry wood?

[QRTRHRS]

Originally Posted by EddieWalker

One thing to add to your quandry is wether your joist hangers are rated for preasure treated lumber? Some are, some are not. Then you might want to ask if the metal will be alright on it? I honestly don't know the answer as it's never come up. Is the paint on the underside of the panels enough? Is there even an issue? Can you put felt paper or insulation over the purlins to seperate the metal from the wood if it is an issue?Eddie

Take a look at this recent article on building a deck with ACQ

[Chuck K.]

Originally Posted by QRTRHRS

Take a look at this recent article on building a deck with ACQ

That was great... If only I had seen it before the project.. one possible saving factor is the joist hangers I used allowed me to run the deckmate screws in an angle similiar to "toe nailing". Even if the hangers are effected the toe screws (?) would still hold along with the screws through the header and into the end of the rafter... And Im sure I screwed the terminology all up

Chuck.

[Chuck K.]

Originally Posted by Redbug

Interesting thread. I also have done some reading on the ACQ lumber, but did not know the dry condition fact. I do not know, (and also wonder), how the 19% equilibrium moisture content compares to where you live, (relative humidities inside a pole barn). That is...I wonder if 19% in the wood could also be in the Pacific Northwest or Florida where there's high RH's? What is the normal moisture content of dry wood?

Good question RB, I live along the Texas coast, about 15 miles North of Galveston. I do not have an accurate number for our RH but I can tell you it is high most of the year until the cold fronts blow in... The bands or horizontal purlins are from old CCA so the roof tin is the area I have to determine best method of attachment..

Another lesson learned... Never pour, even if its only 7 yards of concrete at 1300 hrs especially with only 3 people (2 had no concrete expierence)....Man was it hot... It was the only time available on that day, if I had to do it over again I would reschedule for early AM..