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#1 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Willis, Texas
Posts: 151
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Looking at a good deal on a 2" water pump at TSC:
Tractor Supply Company - Pacer Pump 3.5 HP 2 in Plastic ![]() I know this is a great pump for moving water, but what about a pressurized stream going from a holding tank, through 1" hose, to a nozzle? I'm looking for something that might help with small brush fires while I'm burning. Anyone try this?
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Chris Farm Trac 300DTC w/5140 FEL and stuff |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Key Peninsula, Wa-eventually
Posts: 170
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I'll be interested in what those that have been there before have to say. I think for fire fighting, higher pressure is necessary-like 60 to 80 psi. That may just be to get the water on top of a structure. May not be an issue with brush fires though.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Willis, Texas
Posts: 151
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Basically I have a 350 gallon poly tank on a trailer that I use with a pto pump on my tractor for GREAT pressure and GPM. But if there was a way to use this pump instead of tying up my tractor I think I'd be better off.
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Chris Farm Trac 300DTC w/5140 FEL and stuff |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SE Wa
Posts: 873
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It depends on the pump. Some are just transfer types that pump a lot of water at low pressure, then there are the ones that will produce pressute. You have to look at the specifications. For fire hose use, I would think you need a pump that will put out at least 50psi
Harry K |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: N. E. Florida
Posts: 202
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I needed a pump to jet down a well for my garden. I tried to use my regular hose but got down 18' and couldn't get any farther.
I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 2" pump part# 93662, on sale for $199. It has a cage around it, light weight, a 5.5hp knock off of a Honda engine, rated 145 GPM at 58psi. 2" npt connecters. The pump works very well, will put out a solid 2" stream unloaded and plenty of pressure when connected. It took me 8 minutes to wash my well casing down another 15'. It took me about an hour per 10' with the garden hose. I would reccomend this pump for your application, Im very happy with it. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 384
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I dont want to steal your thread, but Stimw can you tell me more about that well project you mentioned. Turned on a light bulb in me head!!
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98 JD 1070 (573 hrs), 440 JD Loader, 8B JD Back Hoe, 5' King Kutter Rotary Cutter, 6' King Kutter Landscape Rake, 7' King Kutter Back Blade, 6' Farm Force Box Blade, Custom Design/Built Grapple, Farm Force PHD w/ 9" & 12" Augers |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: N. E. Florida
Posts: 202
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Here in this area our water table is 3-10' down. If we want a shallow well we jet it down. The standard way is to attach a garden hose with reducer fittings to 2" PVC that has notches cut in the end to help cut through hard pan areas. I have 10' sections of 2" with female couplers on the ends and I use steel nipples to put together.
I just pick an area to put the well, attach the water hose and start cycling up and down, the spoils come out around the pipe. When I get down far enough I add another section of pipe/casing. I like to go about 30' to have a good well. After I get down far enough I take the top fitting off and put 1 1/4" PVC down inside the 2". I will have a 10' PVC wellpoint on the bottom. After putting the 1 1/4" PVC in I remove the 2" casing leaving the 1 1/4" in place. Then hook up a pump and run until it runs clean without sand. You have to work fast or the casing will silt back in and get stuck. I've put in over a dozen wells like this. I've got two on this property, one for my Geothermal Heatpump and now one for my garden. In Florida any well over 50' down needs to be permitted by a licenced driller. I have washed down as far as 48'. This last well washed down 18' then my spoils quit coming back out, the hole was keeping the water. That's why I needed a bigger pump. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 384
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wow, thats pretty cool. I don't think that process would work in my clay shale mix. I am looking to make some sort of well to water my lawn. I have a well for my house, but I am afraid of using all my water on the lawn. I guess it can't hurt to try.
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98 JD 1070 (573 hrs), 440 JD Loader, 8B JD Back Hoe, 5' King Kutter Rotary Cutter, 6' King Kutter Landscape Rake, 7' King Kutter Back Blade, 6' Farm Force Box Blade, Custom Design/Built Grapple, Farm Force PHD w/ 9" & 12" Augers |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: N. E. Florida
Posts: 202
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To test the wash down take 10' of 3/4 PVC, put two 90's on it (so hose won't kink) then a female hose adapter fitting. Attach hose and try washing it into the ground. you will be able to see how well it will work.
I helped my neighbor install a power pole and when we got it stood up it needed to be a foot deeper. We just used a piece of 3/4 PVC and jetted it down. The water moved the dirt from underneath and the pole sunk. They put in dock pilings this way down here too. Stand them up and jet down to hard pan. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Super Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tyler, Texas
Posts: 7,807
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Quote:
I'm assuming that you are worried about embers that might ignight downwind of where you have a fire going? I've had this happen quite a few times when the wind kicks up after burning for a few hours and it's all coals and ash's. The problem I see is reach. No matter how long of a hose, it will never be long enough for everything that might happen. You should be able to set it up to put out the fire itself, but that's rarely the problem, it's those floating embers that get away from you. Then there is the reliability issue. Will the engine start and will the pump prime when you realy need it? What are the odds of this every year that you own it? Five years from now? I think the keep it simple aproach is much better. Buy the biggest fire extinguisher that you can find. You don't need a chemical rated one, just one that will kill a fire instantly. I aslo have garden sprayers for those hot embers that land, but haven't cought on fire. I just give them a squirt for insurance so that they can't start a fire. One day, I'm going to buy a larger, high preasure water sprayer for this. I've seen others with them, but haven't bought one yet. I also burn with my backhoe close by and the loader bucket full of dirt. Yes, I've used it too!!! I have a 80 gallon water well preasurized tank that I've been planning on putting on wheels and turning into an emergancy source of water for embers. It has a bladder in it, so it's under preasure when filled from the garden hose. Then when I open the valve, all the water will come out from the preasure of the bladder inside the tank. No pumping, now power source, just instant water in a hurry. Typing this makes me really think this should be one of those projects that I should finish. Eddie
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My Goals for 2008 1. Fishing and Hunting with my kids. 2. Build my storage Shed. 3. Put my outside access bathroom together. 4. Fence in a quarter acre for Turkeys. 5. Build my gazebo for my front pasture. 6. Finish back pasture and plant it in Bermuda. 7. Start my food plots. 8. Build a comfortable deer stand for two. 9. Build a wood burning fireplace in my home. 10. New flooring in my home. 11. Build a pasture sprayer. 12. Get my old jeep running. |
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