Moving metal building / carport

   / Moving metal building / carport #1  

TennFire

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
38
I have a 20 x 30 storage building that has 8 foot sidewalls and steel siding to the ground on both sides. Interior supports are 5 feet apart and are 3" pipe similar to fencing corner posts that are connected 30 foot angle iron on each side that is used with rebar to anchor the structure. I need to move the building about 100 feet across grass and rotate it 90 degrees.

Without going to rent equipment, I have access to 2 trucks, a 16" trailer and a Massey MF35 (gas). I do have a Bobcat skidsteer but its a 3 hour trip to get it.

Suggestions would be appreciated....
 
   / Moving metal building / carport #3  
TennFire:
Can you upload a pic to look at?
Is the front and back open? What kind of roof structure is it?, etc. As with any structural moving project bracing the structure is the key. I've moved small storage sheds but nothing this big

Ralph
 
   / Moving metal building / carport
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Photo as requested
 

Attachments

  • DSC00002.JPG
    DSC00002.JPG
    59.9 KB · Views: 1,454
  • DSC00003.JPG
    DSC00003.JPG
    60.8 KB · Views: 1,345
   / Moving metal building / carport #5  
Jack each side up and lay 2 2x12's under each side. Anchor 2x12's to the bottom support plate of building for skids. Use 2x4's to cross brace from corner to corner. Then connect each side of the end your pulling from with something prolly 2x6's or bigger. (I would prolly stiff leg it like a wall partition in framing). Hook a chain, straps, cable, etc. to each corner of the end your pulling from and to the tractor, then take off! Carports are fairly light, this would surely work
 
   / Moving metal building / carport #6  
Carpenter 383; this is right in line with what I was thinking.

Tennfire: I might even scab some 2x4's together and cross brace each end opening or even take some rope and cross tie it just for some additional insurance.

I'm kinda like the guy that wears suspenders....and a belt!

Good luck!
 
   / Moving metal building / carport #7  
You may not want to spend that kind of money building a 'skid' to move it and still take the chance of it flexing as you move it 90 degrees. If the metal is screwed into the frame, take it apart and put it back together. You can also mark your pieces as you go.:)
 
   / Moving metal building / carport #8  
You may not want to spend that kind of money building a 'skid' to move it and still take the chance of it flexing as you move it 90 degrees. If the metal is screwed into the frame, take it apart and put it back together. You can also mark your pieces as you go.:)

You may not have noticed, but he is just moving it a 100'. Will take too much time and effort to unscrew and rebuild. Maybe very difficult getting it aligned to put back up. Build wood runners and skid for it, brace it, pull it slowly. Build the runners so there is an angle on the front edge to slide over the dirt easier. Have someone else watch as you pull it, so you don't create any damage. Brace the open ends well at the bottom and pull from the corners. Carpenter 383 has the right idea.
 
   / Moving metal building / carport
  • Thread Starter
#9  
It does not show in the pictures, but the uprights are all screwed to a 3"x4" angle iron on the bottoms. What about using a jack or the lift on the tractor to lift the sides slightly and then using 4" PVC sections to roll it rather than wood skids?
 
   / Moving metal building / carport #10  
If the pvc and bottom plate on the building is strong enough to support itself, you prolly could. I would still cross brace the bottom of the building, because without a floor it relies on the anchors in the ground and you will be removing them obviously. If the ground is not good and flat it may be hard to keep the building from taking off once it's on the pipes or it may try to slide off the side of them.
 
 
Top