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#31 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 98
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Hey Jerry,
Do you know Sonny Lam ? He used to be the chief electrical inspector in Charlottesville, VA and has served on several NFPA Committees. He now works for a large electrical contractor ( retired from the city ) and does a lot of fishing. |
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#33 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,021
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When I ran power to my well I ran the UF in condiut (the gray palstic stuff) at a depth of 24"+. This way your sure that you do not have a problem although its more work and a little more money.
I think the other guys are right about using the sub-soiler only for low voltage or water lines (summer use only). Use a ditch witch or backhoe and do the high voltage right. Also if you use conduit then you may be able to repair / change the run by pulling the wire back through the conduit. Of course this assumes that you don't overstuff the conduit or try to pull it back through a mile of conduit. Fred |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 288
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Instructions from the back of the package of 50' of Outdoor Wire 14-2 UF-B:
<font color=blue>Installing: Type UF-B cable should be buried at least 12" deep when used without conduit. Conduit should be used whenever there is danger of mechanical damage to the cable or whenever the cable rises above ground. The National Electrical Code and most local codes require the use of Ground-fault Interrupter with outdoor circuits to prevent serious electrical shock."</font color=blue> I had planned to use my sub-soiler to install the cable 12" to 14". I only have a run of about 20 feet to the flagpole. Do you all think I will have an issue? |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,477
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Mike,
It could meet the NEC requirements, if it is Ground Fault protected and 20 amps or less, 12" of cover is fine. If not GFCI protected, NEC requires 24" of cover. But think of it this way also.....if I could hit it at 12", I'd probably hit it with the same equipment at 24" [img]/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif[/img] |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 288
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Jerry,
Thanks for the info. I am only running two lights to illuminate the flag pole at night. I will replace the current electrical socket with a GCFI (is this a complicated procedure or just like any other socket change?). |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,477
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An easy job. Just replace it with the power off. There are markings on the back side of the GFCI labeling each screw. The power coming in goes on the "LINE" screws, and the power going out to your lights ( and method of controlling them) goes on the "LOAD" screws. Black side for the black wire, white side for the white wire.
Just an FYI for everyone reading these posts, the NEC is the MINIMUM requirements. Feel free to exceed them, but that is the minimum you should do for safety sake.We all want to wake up for another day and enjoy our kids, and their kids. Electricity and the human body don't get along real well. |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 49
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Now thats a big garden. Looks like you could feed all the critters in the county and still have some left to harvest for yourself. Your efforts sure took the work out of that job and actually made it look like fun.
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