I have seen a lot of posts on stump, tree, and brush removal. I would like to introduce you all to the final work in land clearing...Cat D8R with a "V" Tree cutter blade. To use it hit the tree/stump/bush with the spear on the front and drive forward. The blade splits the tree/stump/bush and rips it out at the ground.
V Tree Cutter
- Thread starter jtn
- Start date
treeboone
Silver Member
This looks like a landing craft from the Nautilus in '20,000 leagues under the Sea'. Oh we're havin fun now...
Noted on your profile that we have some implements in common, the Landpride cutter and 3584 rear blade. My blade seems to be rather sloppy and sounds like a chinese parade when I carry it raised. The majority of the slop is in the tilt turntable. Is yours loose too? My dealer is trying to play dumb and won't address the issue, I say it should not be that sloppy after a year of use. Any feedback?
Noted on your profile that we have some implements in common, the Landpride cutter and 3584 rear blade. My blade seems to be rather sloppy and sounds like a chinese parade when I carry it raised. The majority of the slop is in the tilt turntable. Is yours loose too? My dealer is trying to play dumb and won't address the issue, I say it should not be that sloppy after a year of use. Any feedback?
It may be the nut that holds the tilt structure on. I think you can access it by removing the rear cover plate where the tilt pivots. Mine rattles a little but is still pretty tight over all. Nothing I would complain about.
JT
JT
gordon
Veteran Member
I've got the same blade and it has some slop in it as well. It's the nature of the beast. First the nut for the turntable is accessed from the bottom not the rear. Here is a piece of the assembly instructions.
5. Assemble the moldboard (#7) to the frame assembly
by turning the moldboard sideways so the center hole in
the blade turntable fits over the stud in the frame. Install
washer (#8) and slotted hex nut (#9). Tighten nut secure-ly
and then back off 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. Install cotter pin
(#10) and bend both legs around hex nut. Tighten to prop-er
torque.
You can download manuals from Landprides website. Here is a link to the manuals. They are in pdf and better yet cost nothing. LANDPRIDE REARBLADE MANUALS</font color=blue>
Gordon
5. Assemble the moldboard (#7) to the frame assembly
by turning the moldboard sideways so the center hole in
the blade turntable fits over the stud in the frame. Install
washer (#8) and slotted hex nut (#9). Tighten nut secure-ly
and then back off 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. Install cotter pin
(#10) and bend both legs around hex nut. Tighten to prop-er
torque.
You can download manuals from Landprides website. Here is a link to the manuals. They are in pdf and better yet cost nothing. LANDPRIDE REARBLADE MANUALS</font color=blue>
Gordon
treeboone
Silver Member
If that be the case, I'll quit whining. At least I put dibs on it before the warranty is up. I looked at the manual and it appears that the turntable at one time was machined out of heavier material, at least the slot that the blade rotates in. It looks like a nice tight slot on the drawing, but mine has a couple of lips welded on instead. I looked at a similar Woods blade (Frontier brand) and it was a bit better built.
gerard
Veteran Member
I have a woods blade but the turntable nut loosens all the time after use and you get slop. Just takes a few turns with a big socket. Guess you could go with a big lockwasher and crank it down but then anging the blade would be a lot harder so I think you need to have a certain amount of looseness.