Driveway Problem

   / Driveway Problem #1  

Dahammer72

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Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
3
Hi, guys. I'd like to get some input on a driveway problem I have. The driveway is almost 2 years old and is about 600 long. The soil is heavy clay. I call it wax, as it sticks to everything it touches like glue when it's wet. When it's dry, you need a jackhammer to make a dent in it. The driveway was established by simply spreading about a 6" layer of crushed limestone (w/fines) on top of the existing compacted soil. Since that time, I placed probably another 4 or so of 1/2 clean limestone on top. Most of the driveway is fine and holds up fairly well. However, I have about a 100' section that is giving me lots of problems. It rutted out badly through the winter. Ruts probably got 12" or more deep in places. I went in with a tractor and blade, leveled it up, set the crowns back, and then had a 18 wheeler load of 3/4" clean limestone spread over top of it. That was last month and all that rock is gone and I'm back to a muddy clay surface on top. So now, I need to find a solution instead of just keeping on throwing money at it.

What I had in mind at first was to just have some large crushed limestone (say 3") hauled in and drive on that for awhile and then go over it with smaller crushed limestone (w/fines) this fall before winter sets in. But I'm not so sure that's the best way to do it. If you think about it, the large clean rock allows water to penetrate it to the clay subsoil which turns to muck when wet. And if it's wet, seems to me that the limestone will just get pushed right down into it and I'd end up back in the same spot all over again. Prehaps it would be better to put down a large crushed limestone with the fines, which would help seal off the clay I'd think. Then spread clean rock on top once it's set up. That's basically what I did to start with, but I didn't use large rock. Which way works the best?

Also, I should note that the driveway as is will stand up to automobile traffic as is, other than it having a muddy surface on bad area when wet. My problem has more to do with the fact that I'm driving a 30 ton truck (tandem weighs in at 21.5 ton) in and out once every day. I back the truck down the driveway with the push and tag axles raised, so it gets the full 21.5 ton tandem once a day.

Whatever I put on it, I need to be able to work it with a tractor and straight blade, so I don't want to go too big. But at the same time I need it to hold the truck up, which obviously the smaller stone isn't doing. Thanks.
 
   / Driveway Problem #2  
Check out the subsoil drainage situation. That is probably where your problem lies.:D
 
   / Driveway Problem #3  
Asphalt.
 
   / Driveway Problem #4  
You have a drainage problem in that area.
 
   / Driveway Problem #6  
Great! I don't have to start my own thread!

I had the same issue Dahammer - we could be neighbors. Heavy clay, no perc to it.

I solved it (somewhat) by putting down construction fabric and putting 6" of shale on it. It worked fine for a couple of years. The problem was that my grading was done by my loggers. They're great loggers, but really suck on a dozer. I had remnant low spots that held water for...oh....about a week after a rain. The shale started to geologically revert back to clay....and you know the rest. Proper grading is the key. You cant let water sit on clay if you intend to drive on it.

My farm roads are constant maintenance, with grading, water turnouts and detention basins.

The solution for my driveway is going to be 2"+ cobbles that I am buying from a local pit across the valley (sure....they have gravel over there!). First things first. Tonight I started the job of ripping up the shale and fabric on the problem side of my loop. It's really a job for a dozer, but I went after it with the box blade. I did admirably, but before I go further, I need my buddy to help me shoot elevations and......bring is JD450 dozer.:D After proper grading, I'll lay down some more fabric and then 8" of cobble, tracked in with the dozer.

Here's some pics. That's solid ash tray clay under there boys! My pointer is providing technical assistance, of course. I think he whizzed on it to help soften it....:eek:
 

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   / Driveway Problem
  • Thread Starter
#7  
The drainage I have been working on and I've gotten it temporarily fixed to a degree and it has gotten alot better as a result. I'm going to install some drainage basins and piping soon, but for now I just turned the water off the drive with a ditch.

But to make matters worse there is a pond on one side of the problem area that runs the entire length of the problem spot. The pond is close to the drive as well, only about 10' from it, so it contributes to the moisture. Over the weekend I installed a drainage pipe in the pond so that I could lower the water level. I lower it about 10", I'm hoping that helps too. The thing is the drive is 2 years old, and nothing has changed over that time frame and it's never been a problem until this past winter and current spring.

As to the geotextile fabric. I'm going to investigate that some more and see if I can find some of it locally, but I've never seen it used around here, so I'm not sure where to look for it.

Asphalt would be awesome if I could pass around a hat and get you guys to help me out. :) Seriously though, unless I did it to highway spec probably 8" to 12" thick, it wouldn't last very long under this truck I don't think.

But back to my main question. Is it better to put large clean rock underneath or just use the base with the fines all the way? When the state DOT builds roads around here, they just use the stuff with the fines in it. I've never seen them use large clean rock. However, they also always put down good dirt and compact it too.
 
   / Driveway Problem #8  
I have driven over new road / driveways that had the fabric under them with my 1 ton truck loaded. It feels like driving on a water bed , but I never went through.
 
   / Driveway Problem #9  
The geotextile fabric is available from most oil field supply companies. The local drilling company did a test of this fabric on an oil access road. The fabric comes in 300' rolls and costs about $1 per foot. In there test, the fabric saved 100 tons of stone for each 300' roll over the first 2 years the road is in use. The fabric is 12' wide. I used this fabric on my new drive which was all clay and it has held up great with cement and block trucks running over it. In one very wet spot the fabric popped up to the surface when a brine truck ran over it after it had been raining for a week. This was about 1' wide by 3' long but the fabric did not tear and no mud came thru.
 
 
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