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  1. #1
    Veteran Member orezok's Avatar
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    Mojave Desert, CA
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    Kubota B7800

    Default 3 Point Road Grader

    I'm just about to start building a Dura Grader type of grader. I've looked at all of the pictures from Dura Grader, Road Boss and several others. What I'm having a problem with is what the dimensions should be. I have a 7800 and when my 54" Gearmore box blade is full of soil, I run out of traction. It's a deep box (19") and loads up a lot of dirt. Based on that I think I'll stay with either 54" or 60" wide. The photo is laid up at 54".

    I was thinking of a unit that was 72" long to provide a little bit better leveling. It looks like most of the units are shorter than that.

    There are no dealers within 100 miles of here so I can't actually look at one.

    Any suggestions on size?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -grader-jpg  

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Flatheadyoungin's Avatar
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    Mar 2008
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    Southern, OH
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    New Holland TC45 Shuttle

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    this could be a great thread......i need to build one of these in the next year......

    MAKE SURE you keep us posted on your progress......pics are good!
    TC45 Shuttle, 270 hours, 758C backhoe, 16LA loader

    Well, I looks like I just bought myself a lot of work.....

  3. #3
    Gold Member nunyabinis's Avatar
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    Nov 2008
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    The Outer Limits
    Tractor
    Deere

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    I've been putting some SERIOUS thought into building one of those as well. I live at the end of a mile long dirt road that the County only scrapes when they get a wild hair and that ain't enough. Dang road gets wash boarded so bad it looks like waves on the ocean. It'll jar your eye-teeth loose.

    LandPride has their dimensions posted here:


    http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/...s/303-230s.pdf



    I'm gonna make a materials list and visit the Metal Supermarket down the road.




    .

  4. #4
    Veteran Member orezok's Avatar
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    Mojave Desert, CA
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    Kubota B7800

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    Quote Originally Posted by nunyabinis View Post

    LandPride has their dimensions posted here:


    http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/...s/303-230s.pdf
    .

    Thanks - this helps a lot.

  5. #5
    Elite Member RonMar's Avatar
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    May 2005
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    2,759
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    Port Angeles WA
    Tractor
    Jinma 284 delivered 06/28/05

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    You shouldn't have to worry too much about traction. You are not trapping a large ammount of dirt with a "Grader". The soil flows over one blade and into the middle, then stacks up against the second blade. The soil/gravel spreads out in front of, and ultimately flows up and over the second blade evenly,for a straight blade, provided it dosn't go under the second blade to fill a low spot. An angled blade will of course direct the collected material to one side or the other to help crown a road. Now if you trap the soil before it goes over the second blade, it will build up and fill the box and you can run into traction issues just like with a box blade. If you are going to grade, you should be able to comfortably make it wider than 60 if you would like a wider blade. I made mine 5' and hardly know it is back there when grading, but I put a flip down rear gate on mine over the second blade, and I can fill the box and drag my 28HP tractor to a standstill

    I don't know that making it longer will help with the leveling action. I havn't seen one of these that isn't connected to the toplink. In connecting to the toplink, the 3PH geometry is going to force the grader frame to stay parallel(or at a particular set angular relationship) to the tractor frame as seen in the attached bitmap drawings. Making it longer may force it to dump more soil out the rear early, as the rear end will lift more as the tractor front wheels go into a dip. On mine, the toplink allows me to VERY precisely control the ammount the front blade cuts into the ground. I set mine up with the front blade approximately 3/4" below the bottom of the slide rails, and so far this has proven to work pretty well for me. But I do not have anything to compare it to as I did not make that front blade adjustable.

    Good luck on your project.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ron

  6. #6
    Veteran Member orezok's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    Thanks Ron. I was thinking that with my hydraulic top link that I would make a sliding top link connection on the grader such that when the top link was extended that the grader would float, almost like a drag. Combined with the 3 point in float also, it seem that it would result in a greater amount of leveling. I've never seen one in action other than online videos, so I'm not sure.

    The situation you describe is exactly what happens with the box blade and it is what I am trying to avoid.

    Is more weight an asset or a liability?

  7. #7
    Platinum Member ampsucker's Avatar
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    Southeast Kansas
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    BX24

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    looks like a fun project. i'm sure you will get something together that will work.

    i'm just not sure calling it a "grader" is the right term for this type of implement. the key to a road grader's ability to smooth a road is it's long, rigid, wheelbase in the direction of the road. it has a fixed blade with the ability to apply a significant amount of downforce (tons) and the ability to be angled precisely. the geometry of the blade combined with the long wheelbase allows a skilled operator to recontour a road base with essentially no effect from the defects in the road originally present (pot holes, wash boarding, washouts, incorrect banking, etc.)

    i believe what you are building and what many (landpride, dr, etc.) sell as a road grader is really a fancy back blade. it will not have either of the key benefits of a road grader (long wheel base nor high adjustability with lots of downforce).

    the wheel base will be the same as the tractor's without the blade on. the tractor will still ride into every imperfection in the road. the best you can do to minimize this is make the 3pt hitch "floating" as you plan to do.

    if you allow the 3pt to float, you will not have any adjustability there. you will have to build several types of adjustability into the implement itself (blade angle left to right, front to back, yaw and pitch, etc.) this will be an engineering challenge but also the key to success. adding gauge wheels on long mounting brackets will allow you to add adjustability as well as lengthen the effective wheelbase of the implement. essentially, you would be building a tow behind road grader like they used to use in the 20's and 30s.

    you will not be able to apply downforce. referencing your question, here, weight is your friend although it's a compromise since the heavier the implement, the harder it is to hook up and the less dirt you can move before loosing traction of the drive wheels.

    not trying to be a wet blanket. i love a good project as much as the next guy. but, my parents have also lived on a 1/2 mile gravel road for almost 30 years. i've seen most of it and tried most of it. nothing beats the design of a real road grader for taking care of things in short order. everything else is a compromise.

    i run a six foot rear blade with extra weight on a 2 ton tractor with adjustable tilt. by angling the blade all the way and tilting it, i am able to crown and get out most wash boards when the ground is moist. i just started digging out pot holes with a 50hp gear box tiller. that is the best combo i've been able to come up with short of buying (or building) a road grader.

    sorry for the long post and good luck on your project. it will be interesting to see how it all turns out!

    amp
    Kubota BX24 (loader, hoe, 60" belly); Ford 800 tractor; Scott's/Deere 42" mower; 5' and 6' rear blade; 54" Howse tiller; 20' 7,000 lb carhauler trailer; 2 other trailers; 5' dethatcher; 10" single bottom moldboard plow; middle buster plow; 600 lb roller; 3pt auger; front tire chains; Stihl and Honda small engine equip.

    Growing with you season by season.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Redbug's Avatar
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    Columbia, SC
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    Kubota L3830HST

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    Here's another thread that may help...

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...er-mod-bb.html
    Dave

    "If your sport does not put grease, blood, or dirt under your fingernails, then it's just a game!"

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Tig's Avatar
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    The County, Ontario, Canada
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    Kubota, B7100HST-D

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    I've got a lot more hours on that BB grader mod now, Redbug. I'm still very happy and so are my neighbours. I fixed the laneway this spring in two passes. I've even used it to finish grade around my new garage. It was easy to get a table top flat finish. It stays on the BB most of the time.
    After reading up on road maintenance last year I toyed with the idea of a curved deflector to tumble the gravel instead of letting it percolate over the blades. It's supposed to mix the fines and stones better. I'll probably leave it as is since it seems to work well. Later I do plan to make a steel roller to roll the road after I grade. That will push any loose stones back into the surface.
    Steve

    The best things in life are not things.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Redbug's Avatar
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    Kubota L3830HST

    Default Re: 3 Point Road Grader

    Steve,

    Yes, I bookmarked your thread when you posted it. That is one of the projects I want to make this summer that's on my to-do list. You still like it, so it must be a good design. You can also load both the box blade and your grader attachment as one implement on the trailer, and drop off the grader part to use just the box blade, if you need. Versatile.
    Dave

    "If your sport does not put grease, blood, or dirt under your fingernails, then it's just a game!"

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