The Log house Project begins........

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bindian said:
Rick,
I love the cedar railings. I hardly ever ask critical questions, but here is an important one. Have you checked with your insurance company on what type of railings would be considered "child proof"?
Again, I love how your work is turning out.:cool: I am mighty envious here.;)
hugs, Brandi
The International Residential Code which is used by a lot of the counties around this area (East Tennessee) states that a sphere 4 inches in diameter should not be able to pass through the railing. I think Rick's county may not have building codes for county dwellings.

Personally I wouldn't go to the insurance company; I'd just use common sense. If it seems unsafe for kids, then it probably is. I'm sure Rick has used common sense.
 
   / The Log house Project begins........
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#1,022  
Brandi, not much on codes here...we just got "building permits" the end of last year, which is a foundation, structural and final inspection. I thought about 4", but it would have been a little busy-er, so I opted for 5". My insurance company(local) does not get that involved here.

Eddie, I am using 6" Oly Log screws on the smaller rails, and 10" on the larger rounds. Some are "toe" screwed and others all the way through.

I'm still trying to figure out how to attach the spokes....face screw them, mortise and tenon, or a combo. I got sidetracked today, and milled out the rest of the 3x6x10 cedar rafters, then had to put them up:
CedarRailing018.jpg


CedarRailingfrontporchrafters002.jpg


Then I finished the last corner of top and bottom rail to the front porch:
CedarRailingfrontporchrafters005.jpg
 
   / The Log house Project begins........
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#1,023  
A close up of the center top rail joint:
CedarRailingfrontporchrafters013.jpg


A "built-in" knee brace on the front porch:
CedarRailingfrontporchrafters018.jpg


The last corner, both notched into the porch post:
CedarRailingfrontporchrafters017.jpg
 
   / The Log house Project begins........ #1,025  
That is all coming along nicely. You are going to have a lot of spokes to make five inches. I am pretty sure the Internation Building Code applies to all the counties in Tennessee. For what that is worth. Just be glad we have an inspector who has never read it. It will never be a problem until there is a problem and then the insurance company will look for anything they can to deny a claim.

I vote for mortis and tenon on the spokes. Would look much nicer than screws.Do you have a tenon cutter?
 
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Nice work! I like.
May I suggest that you somehow cover or cap that beam end that protrudes under the corner (last pix) as it would be a shame if water collected there and started the rotting process.
 
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#1,027  
Good grief, 4" is infant sized:(. Ain't it sad we all have to jump through hoops because somewhere some parent left a very very young child unsupervised on a deck?

Piloon, yes, all of my beams stick out a few inches, even the ridge beam. My plan is to buy a sheet of copper & copper nails, make some covers and get up there and cover all of them, then caulk them in place.

Fleabay has copper pretty cheap that is malleable and easy to cut with shears:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

But then again, TNMike could probably find a sheet of copper at a scrap yard for $4....they guy finds the most outrageous deals there:laughing:.

Mike, I was going to use deadfall cedar limbs because they are already stripped of bark and look like antlers, so if I mortise & tenon, I am not sure how to get them in there....they won't bend much. I could cut green limbs, then maybe I can bend 'em. And yes I bought a LogMan tennon cutter and a big Sears router that can take a 1/2" bit shank......I'm ready.
 
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I know where you can get sheets of gutter copper for scrap. You can make the nails out of copper wire if you wanna get traditional. :thumbsup: They would have larger hand hammered heads that would set them apart from store bought. If you quench copper in water it anneals it. (softens it). As you hammer it into shape it work hardens. The copper you listed on ebay is pretty thin. What I can get is .030 " or three times as thick as it is.

I just bought a piece about 2 feet wide and four feet long for a copper weathervane I am making. I have been following this book which is excellent if anyone is interested.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Making-Copper-Weathervane-Bruce-Helmreich/dp/0764332074[/ame]
 
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#1,029  
Now your making a weathervane...out of copper...where do you find the time ....wow!

Ok, Mike.... if you don't mind, scrounge me up some next time you see some at the scrap yard. We ain't got no copper gutters here in Hancock County.....;)
 
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Now your making a weathervane...out of copper...where do you find the time ....wow!

Look whose talking.


Iv'e seen newspaper articles where they are stealing copper weather vanes with helicopters. Some have brought one million dollars at auction.
http://boston.cbslocal.com/2011/09/...rom-norwell-barn-imitation-left-in-its-place/

Wev'e got the Biltmore House and the Town of Biltmore here man. They wouldn't think of using aluminum for gutters.

I will get you some no problem. Want copper wire for the nails?
 
 
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