The Log house Project begins........

[tony Cecil]

I would stick with what would traditionally have been with a genuine cabin, such as you have built.....If you vary from that , I think your cabin won`t be the `real thing` Tony

 

[MotorSeven]

Well, she kinda likes this:

Later(when more $ is available) we could add the two triangles:

Not bad.....eh?

 

[MotorSeven]

Eddie, I actually do like the Sunburst, but like I said before I don't think I can reverse the Crows Foot(or reverse knee braces, or Peace Sign, or or or). I am not an engineer and I installed them because the center ridge support(10x5x14') with the weight of the ridge beam and roof was pushing down the logs over the 10' doorway. After putting everything up I was concerned about this and watched it closely. With the Collar Ties installed, the deflection or sag of the logs was 1/2" in the center of the doorway. This pic shows the force of the weight in red:

Now it might not have ever moved anymore, but I was not willing to gamble, so I jacked the doorway logs back up and installed the two braces to distribute the weight over to the walls on either side of the door. That was a month an a half ago and it has not sagged or moved:

Again, I am not an engineer(just a schmoe building a house) and this is just a guess, but if those braces are reversed would they not again put that weight back onto the center of the doorway? I just think the Crows Foot bracing has to stay, does all that make sense?

 

[bindian]

Not bad.....eh?

Works for me. I am happy!
hugs, Brandi

 

[ThomasH]

The inverted Y as you draw it will probably not do much to deflect the weight over the doorway unless you have an very well designed joint at the top of the Y which allows no movement, and the bottom of the Y is really well anchored (and therefore can't spread).

I would suggest just putting a header over the top log (double 2x10 LVL) and let a proper header distribute the load to wider than the opening below.

BTW - I am *impressed* by what you have done!

Tom

 

[MotorSeven]

The inverted Y as you draw it will probably not do much to deflect the weight over the doorway unless you have an very well designed joint at the top of the Y which allows no movement, and the bottom of the Y is really well anchored (and therefore can't spread).

I would suggest just putting a header over the top log (double 2x10 LVL) and let a proper header distribute the load to wider than the opening below.

BTW - I am *impressed* by what you have done!

Tom

Top of the inverted Y has 2 - 10" log screws in it on both sides and a 1/2 x 12" lag screw that goes through(horizontally) the top of one brace, then through the ridge support and terminates in the opposite brace. The bottom of the Y has 12 - 8" log screws in it on each side attached over 2' of wall.

I should have thought about a header before installing the ridge support, and hindsight I thought about steel. It could be done now but would involve a ton or work. It would actually be easier to put a Collar Tie in up high on the rafters, but I am not sure it is needed at this point.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

IPlay, I don't see anything there that I really want. As usual, I am fighting the rising tide of conformity:laughing: I think Eddie was talking about a Sunrise looking theme:

I completely understand the desire to fight conformity. I've never been a "Me too" kind of person. However, I have often taken inspiration from the efforts of others. I think you came up with a great design in the picture below.

It looks great as-is, but the flexibility to expand later with the extra triangles makes it even better.

 

[EddieWalker]

Now it might not have ever moved anymore, but I was not willing to gamble, so I jacked the doorway logs back up and installed the two braces to distribute the weight over to the walls on either side of the door. That was a month an a half ago and it has not sagged or moved:

Again, I am not an engineer(just a schmoe building a house) and this is just a guess, but if those braces are reversed would they not again put that weight back onto the center of the doorway? I just think the Crows Foot bracing has to stay, does all that make sense?

I didn't realize that you where trying to distribute the load of your post with the braces. I have my doubts as to the long term success to this. Expecially with the movement that you already have.

A proper header is probably needed, but since that would ruin the look, what about Angle Iron on either upper edge of the wall out past the opening? Or even better, a large C Channel wide enough to go on the outside of the logs? Then drill the sides and bolt it all together.

Get it right now before going on with the window. Any movement that you have now will be worse later, and that will really cause problems with the glass in the window.

Eddie

 

[MotorSeven]

If I go ahead and mill 6x6's for the two vertical uprights of the big window and properly attach them to the rafter and the wall that will in fact triple the support of the ridge post. This will kill two birds with one stone.....supporting the the ridge/rafter and framing the window glass.

 

[EddieWalker]

Yes, but only if there is not more movement in the logs above the window. Taking off a lot of the load might solve this, or it might just reduce how noticable it is for now.

I like the look of four seperate windows without the bracing at the bottom. The bracing makes it look busy to me. Clean and simple is always my favorite look.

Can you remove the logs above the window and install a massive 5x5 piece of angle iron over the window opening? If you paint it black, It will look nice from the outside where you would see it.

Eddie