The Log house Project begins........
- Thread starter MotorSeven
- Start date
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MotorSeven
Elite Member
I am also kicking around pouring a cap all the way around with rebar in it. I seems to me that it would make the wall a lot stonger that just filling it.
As far as mixing it myself...been there done that. At $100 a yard & $5 extra a yard for the pumper, it just doesn't make sense to do it all manually....that is if I have enough $ to do it.
RD
As far as mixing it myself...been there done that. At $100 a yard & $5 extra a yard for the pumper, it just doesn't make sense to do it all manually....that is if I have enough $ to do it.
RD
firefighter9208
Platinum Member
Don't forget the J bolts when you pour the blocks. That way you can bolt your seal plate to the top of the walls. Go ahead and put two nuts on the bolts and wrap them with masking tape to keep the concrete off the threads.
Chris
Chris
Pops15
Platinum Member
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Shallow frost line, little or no backfill on 3 sides,plus 12" blocks. Don't slug the blocks, you'll just be throwing money away. There are millions of block basements that have never had problems. Poured walls only became commonplace here in northern IL in the past 20 years, and they're not without problems either. Where some people get in trouble with blocks is backfilling before the house is framed up. You usually need the weight of the house sitting on the blocks to safely backfill. Doesn't look like you have much over dig so you're probably ok. Another no-no is is running a tractor or crawler on the fill to compact it.
The retaining wall is a different story. It needs the poured cap to strengthen it since there is no structure on top of the blocks.
Eddie,
Sealing blocks is no big deal. There are different products ranging from brush on to spray on. The brush on stuff is a little better for blocks because it fills the pores in the block better. Its not a very enjoyable task though. One thing no one has mentioned is that tooled mortar joints are more waterproof than non-tooled joints. Some block layers want to only strike the joints that will be visible after backfilling.
RD,
Are you going to paint the exposed block with DryLock or equivalent? Or do you have other plans like stucco or cultured stone?
Keep the updates coming! It looks like a fun project.
Pops
The retaining wall is a different story. It needs the poured cap to strengthen it since there is no structure on top of the blocks.
Eddie,
Sealing blocks is no big deal. There are different products ranging from brush on to spray on. The brush on stuff is a little better for blocks because it fills the pores in the block better. Its not a very enjoyable task though. One thing no one has mentioned is that tooled mortar joints are more waterproof than non-tooled joints. Some block layers want to only strike the joints that will be visible after backfilling.
RD,
Are you going to paint the exposed block with DryLock or equivalent? Or do you have other plans like stucco or cultured stone?
Keep the updates coming! It looks like a fun project.
Pops
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MotorSeven
Elite Member
I decided to go with this membrane....Platon. It comes in a 10'x65.5' roll, picked it up today. I also Black Jacked the bottom 2'....yuk
. #57 gravel arrived today, Platon goes on tomorrow....pic's to follow.
Pops, I am going to stucco. The wife has this fantasy of doing real stone...but that may never happen...cost/time/etc. I am with her on one thing...the cultered stone just doesn't look right.
Platon - Foundations - Foundations - CertainTeed
. #57 gravel arrived today, Platon goes on tomorrow....pic's to follow.Pops, I am going to stucco. The wife has this fantasy of doing real stone...but that may never happen...cost/time/etc. I am with her on one thing...the cultered stone just doesn't look right.
Platon - Foundations - Foundations - CertainTeed
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
I got the Platon attached yesterday....a time consuming job doing it by myself. I was up & down that 10' wall a few dozen times. Then in the trench...which made me nervous, even though the slate runs down into the cut bank at an angle. It's very stable, but a cave-in would be the end. Anyway, I put the perimeter drain in, then today used the Kioti to bucket 22 tons of #57 rock onto it. It's 1.5-2' deep on the cut bank & a foot or so on the other side which won't have as much backfill.
For the retainer wall around the driveway, I just used a 40 mil thick sheet visqueen against the bank.
My rib didn't appreciate the effort
Now, should I put down a weed block/mesh type material on top of the rock before backfilling?
RD
For the retainer wall around the driveway, I just used a 40 mil thick sheet visqueen against the bank.
My rib didn't appreciate the effort
Now, should I put down a weed block/mesh type material on top of the rock before backfilling?
RD
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MotorSeven
Elite Member
Oh, and work is done for the day...headed to the deer stand which I put in the middle of the new driveway. The deer seem to like the winter rye grass I planted to stop the erosion...:>!
firefighter9208
Platinum Member
Yes, you need to put landscape fabric on top of the gravel or dirt will infiltrate the gravel and stop up the drain pipe.
I put a french drain in above my barn and didn't put the fabric. In a few months the drain quit draining and I started back having the water problem.
Chris
I put a french drain in above my barn and didn't put the fabric. In a few months the drain quit draining and I started back having the water problem.
Chris
dave1949
Super Star Member
I totally agree with firefighter, put the filter fabric in. Doesn't hurt to use two layers either. Keeps the backfill sediment from rinsing into your pipe.
Dave.
Dave.
OP