how hard to wire in concrete block?

[2manyrocks]

We are about to convert our garage into living space. it's just 8 inch concrete block. I have a clearance problem with an electric box in one corner that hinders me from studding the wall out with 2x4's. There would enough clearance for stucco.

Questions: 1) how hard is it to DIY stucco? 2) how hard is it to run wiring vertically down through the block and and have flush electrical outlets in the block?


Is it any harder than studding it with 2x4s and finishing drywall? Been there--done that, but not stucco and wiring inside block.

 

[BobRip]

If you don't do 2 X 4's how are you going to insulate. A block wall will loose heat big time.

 

[hitekcountry]

I have a clearance problem with an electric box in one corner that hinders me from studding the wall out with 2x4's.

Questions: 1) how hard is it to DIY stucco? 2) how hard is it to run wiring vertically down through the block and and have flush electrical outlets in the block?

What about the electric box that prevents you from studding out the wall?

Stucco is not hard at all to learn, even I can do it.

 

[CurlyDave]

If the block was filled with concrete, it is going to be virtually impossible to run wire in it.

If it wasn't filled, maybe it can be done, but what would give the block wall strength?

 

[hitekcountry]

Concrete block exterior wall is standard construction is France. The way they finish out the inside of the perimeter wall is with foam/sheet rock laminated sheets. (see pic 1 and 2) No 2x4 needed. The way it is installed is with globs of construction adhesive on the block wall. The third picture was a display at a French building supply. The green wall in the display would be the block wall.


I don't know if that product is available here in the US, but you could still do the same thing. Use sheets of Styrofoam and attach to the block wall with CA then attach the sheet rock to that. The electrical you can inlay that into the back of the Styrofoam before attaching it to the block.

 

[2manyrocks]

Our electric meter is on the outside wall. The disconnect box is directly behind the meter on the inside wall in a right hand corner.

There is only 3/4 inch clearance to the wall on the right hand side of the box. If I stud out the wall in front of the box, I won't be able to open it. Actually, I would prefer to enclose the whole thing in a closet, but then I start running into more problems with the block laying to fill in the garage door opening. We were trying to limit the number of block that have to be cut out and refilled to make a bond by putting a window up against part of the existing block wall.

The block wall is not earth retaining and is not filled. It's just hollow. That's the building practice here in middle TN. We're not in an earthquake zone that I know of.

 

[hitekcountry]

It shouldn't be that hard to shift the box over. Or is there something else in the way.

Or your finished wall could have a small area where you don't add the extra thickness.

 

[2manyrocks]

If I stud out to the left of the box, there won't be enough room for a 2x4 wall and still get coat hangers in it. There is only 3/4 inch clearance on the right side.

If relocate the box to the right hand wall, I still won't have enough depth for coat hangers, but I could see how it could be changed around to go in a 2 x 4 or 2x6 wall.

The electrical line is in PVC pipe that is cemented together. How do you cut into this PVC pipe without cutting into the wire insulation inside the pipe? Electricians must do this all the time--but how?

Maybe it would be easier to notch out the block and put the window elsewhere. Still thinking about this.

Please keep the ideas coming. thanks everyone.

 

[dave1949]

You could build a shallow closet, turn the 2x4's on edge coming out from the garage door opening parallel to the right-hand wall. Make this closet just long enough to allow acess to the electrical box. Then continue on with a normal depth closet on the right-hand wall.

You will end up with a 4-6 inch jog in the wall. You could also make up this difference by adding on to the right side of your overhead door opening with lumber before beginning your window rough opening, this would eliminate the jog between closet depths. You will need one 2x8 against the block opening anyways I think to make mounting the window easy.

That's not very clear, hope it makes some sense.
Dave.

 

[jenkinsph]

First of all I think you should check your local electric codes as most have access space criteria and do not allow placing electric panels in closets anymore. More than likely that is why it was in the open garage area to start with. If I recall correctly you need a clean approach to the panel and a 36" width for proper access.


steve