Okay, first time poster and first time working with woven wire fencing. I've fenced in my pastures with high tensile 4 strands and it works great. However, I have a puppy who insists on going to bark at the neighbors and their visitors. Neighbor blew a fuse last time and said he would shoot the dog if he came on the property again. Sooooo.....I'm installing woven wire fence about 9 feet beyond the existing high tensile in hopes of keeping him for getting in really big trouble. I have about 1000' to run and have set the corner posts. The terrain in the back of the field is uneven and goes down and then up a hill in the first 200 feet. How do I get this pulled tight? I'm thinking I may end up doing this myself and don't have a tractor although I do have a pickup....only 2 WD though. I need to get this done ASAP. I'm using 47 inch woven wire fencing. They had the high tensile woven wire but I got the heavier stuff. Fortunately they loaded it so I could roll it out of the bed of the truck.
stretching woven wire over uneven ground
- Thread starter sassione
- Start date
amigauser
Veteran Member
Not to sound stupid, why don't you just put the dog on a run? I know my area has leash laws.
Western
Super Member
If the slope is steep, I usually will put in a "dead stop" or a double "H" brace in the lowest part of the dip. pull to the brace tie it off and re-start.
You don't need a tractor. buy a fence puller or make one with 2 2x4's and 4 bolts and use a come- a-long to pull the wire. If the dog starts going under the fence you may try a run of wire at the ground to tie your fence to.
You don't need a tractor. buy a fence puller or make one with 2 2x4's and 4 bolts and use a come- a-long to pull the wire. If the dog starts going under the fence you may try a run of wire at the ground to tie your fence to.
forgeblast
Elite Member
I had a similar issue with land sloping down as i was putting up the fence.
I tried to use a fence puller, it was not a bolt on type and it yanked the first woven part off of the field fence. So i went slow and just unraveled it as i went. Once i had it all unrolled I went back and stapled it to the posts. I used galvinzed metal tent pegs to hold the bottom to the ground since my dog can dig. I also went back over the bottom part of the fence with "modified stone" and packed it down. Once this was done i screwed the rails (its a 3 rail fence) over the fencing to help hold it in place. If i was getting to much slack in somem places i would just kind of crimp it so that it would go back to being streight.
I feel so much better having my dogs fenced in. THey were on runs and they would get wrapped around the trees and every morning, especially the cold ones they would be stuck. While one of my dogs were stuck my neighbors dog came up and bit her good. The fence keeps his dog out, and mine are safe.
My other neighbors dog just did 600 dollars worth of damge to my wifes car when she jumped and scratched the paint and doors, (car was less then a month old). He still lets it run free.
Fencing is the best way, keeps your neighbors happy and your dog safe.
I tried to use a fence puller, it was not a bolt on type and it yanked the first woven part off of the field fence. So i went slow and just unraveled it as i went. Once i had it all unrolled I went back and stapled it to the posts. I used galvinzed metal tent pegs to hold the bottom to the ground since my dog can dig. I also went back over the bottom part of the fence with "modified stone" and packed it down. Once this was done i screwed the rails (its a 3 rail fence) over the fencing to help hold it in place. If i was getting to much slack in somem places i would just kind of crimp it so that it would go back to being streight.
I feel so much better having my dogs fenced in. THey were on runs and they would get wrapped around the trees and every morning, especially the cold ones they would be stuck. While one of my dogs were stuck my neighbors dog came up and bit her good. The fence keeps his dog out, and mine are safe.
My other neighbors dog just did 600 dollars worth of damge to my wifes car when she jumped and scratched the paint and doors, (car was less then a month old). He still lets it run free.
Fencing is the best way, keeps your neighbors happy and your dog safe.
So, Forge, was the wire pretty tight when you finished by just unrolling and installing it that way? How close did you put your posts?
As to keeping him on a run, I have the same problem that he gets wrapped around things and gets stuck. Also, he wouldn't be able to play with his ponies then or help me with chores with the horses. This way he can still have fun and be safe but not able to get to the neighbor's house.
I had looked at the sites about fence pullers and that will work once I get further up the fence line and things level out but not so much in the back. Does the fence puller tend to warp the fence when you are pulling? In other words, if I pulled it in the middle to get it to the first upslope, would I have to cut it and splice it to clean it up from being pulled on?
Thanks!!
As to keeping him on a run, I have the same problem that he gets wrapped around things and gets stuck. Also, he wouldn't be able to play with his ponies then or help me with chores with the horses. This way he can still have fun and be safe but not able to get to the neighbor's house.
I had looked at the sites about fence pullers and that will work once I get further up the fence line and things level out but not so much in the back. Does the fence puller tend to warp the fence when you are pulling? In other words, if I pulled it in the middle to get it to the first upslope, would I have to cut it and splice it to clean it up from being pulled on?
Thanks!!
beenthere
Super Star Member
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Sassione, Welcome to the forum.
I'd suggest a shock collar and some dog training. I'd get an extra trigger control and give it to your neighbor. He can shock the pup at the same time telling it to go home. Burns my fuse when the neighbors dogs run onto my property to bark and bark at me and my family going for a walk or mowing my lawn. And when I have to drive through the dog crap it burns me even more. So inconsiderate. !!!
But if you think the fence is what you need, so be it. Erecting shorter stretches as suggested is my recommendation.
I'd suggest a shock collar and some dog training. I'd get an extra trigger control and give it to your neighbor. He can shock the pup at the same time telling it to go home. Burns my fuse when the neighbors dogs run onto my property to bark and bark at me and my family going for a walk or mowing my lawn. And when I have to drive through the dog crap it burns me even more. So inconsiderate. !!!
But if you think the fence is what you need, so be it. Erecting shorter stretches as suggested is my recommendation.
forgeblast
Elite Member
I wasnt able to use the fencepuller, it yanked part of the redbrand field fence that i use right off. So i just rolled it out and then moved it down and rolled it out etc... I found it was easier to have it unrolled first and then just pulled it to where i needed it.
The posts are 8' apart, because we wanted the rail look.
The wire stays tight, (i have it stapled to the fence rails and it holds it in place .) and my dogs have tested it good, especially when the deer come in our yard.
The hardest part for me was digging the holes, no matter where they went i hit stone, i have a set of jack hammer bits i used to break through the stone, but that still takes time.
Ill try to post a pic this weekend.
The posts are 8' apart, because we wanted the rail look.
The wire stays tight, (i have it stapled to the fence rails and it holds it in place .) and my dogs have tested it good, especially when the deer come in our yard.
The hardest part for me was digging the holes, no matter where they went i hit stone, i have a set of jack hammer bits i used to break through the stone, but that still takes time.
Ill try to post a pic this weekend.
Erik_in_Hoyt
Platinum Member
for minor ground swell/dips I cut a shallow trench to put the fence in. For steep changes in level, I put in a 5' or so long piece of cattle panel instead of an H and tie the woven wire to each end. (that way one cattle panel handles both ends and the middle of a hill)
I also run a hot wire 8" up from the bottom and at the top of the fence to discourage digging/climbing.
good luck!
I also run a hot wire 8" up from the bottom and at the top of the fence to discourage digging/climbing.
good luck!
Beenthere,
I have the shock collar and starting training but also adding fence. I don't want to take any chances. Laugh....maybe I should post for collar training too, since I've never done that either. He's a good puppy for the most part but just has a brain fart now and then.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to start putting it up this weekend and I'll put up some pictures when I get it done. Those rolls are heavy but I figure determination should give me the energy to move them up and down the hills in the back. I'm using T-posts and wood posts now and then in between. Wish I had enough daylight to get all the H-braces set before the weekend so I could run the whole length of fence. How long do I need to let them settle before attaching fence to them? I'm adding a bag of concrete to each hole which fills it up over half way and then tamping them in place really good. Talk about a great upper body workout.....digging with a hand posthole digger, tossing in the posts and then tamping the daylights out of it!!
I have the shock collar and starting training but also adding fence. I don't want to take any chances. Laugh....maybe I should post for collar training too, since I've never done that either. He's a good puppy for the most part but just has a brain fart now and then.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to start putting it up this weekend and I'll put up some pictures when I get it done. Those rolls are heavy but I figure determination should give me the energy to move them up and down the hills in the back. I'm using T-posts and wood posts now and then in between. Wish I had enough daylight to get all the H-braces set before the weekend so I could run the whole length of fence. How long do I need to let them settle before attaching fence to them? I'm adding a bag of concrete to each hole which fills it up over half way and then tamping them in place really good. Talk about a great upper body workout.....digging with a hand posthole digger, tossing in the posts and then tamping the daylights out of it!!
forgeblast
Elite Member
put a 4x4 on the roll and roll it out, if you can roll so that its going downhill...lol makes it easier. I love/hate my phd. love when it hits dirt hate when it hits rocks.
Here is a close up of how we put the field fence in.
fence tester at work
part of the dog area...they treat it like a playground we call it chucky cheese.
The reason for the bottom board lower was to make sure the dogs would not dig under it, and to give us something to staple to at the lower end of the fence. I have modified all around the insde of the fence and the lower fence board keeps it in place.
Here is a close up of how we put the field fence in.
fence tester at work
part of the dog area...they treat it like a playground we call it chucky cheese.
The reason for the bottom board lower was to make sure the dogs would not dig under it, and to give us something to staple to at the lower end of the fence. I have modified all around the insde of the fence and the lower fence board keeps it in place.
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