New Garage Pole Barn 40 x 64 x 12

[piller]

New tractor shed is starting.
24' x 48' built with 6" x 6" posts on 12' centers.
Plans are off http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/extpubs/Plans/T4012.pdf
This is from the U of Tenn Ag Dept and the carpenter wants to make some changes. We can submit hand drawings but from building my first garage/shop, the county will hold you to building it as agreed.
Lumber is being delivered on Thursday. It is around $1700 not including the metal for the roof. Two weeks to get metal cut to length once I am sure of the measurements. Tenative pricing on painted 26GA rib lock 3' coverage is between $2.50-2.75 per linear foot. My roof should be about $1200.00.
Each section of the shed is 12' x 12'. I am not going to have sides at first, since I want to see how trailers and equipment really fit under the roof.
I had my first problem after ordering the materials.
(I have to have a building permit.)
Local real estate agent suggested going down in person and try and talk to the County.
Super nice guy was in and after I told him my problem with the front set back on my property, he said we can work on that. He really offered a simple solution. I am glad I did it in person.
In our area before you can get the building permit, you have to have the health department agree that you are not building on the septic system or on top of your well.
It is free but can add a week before you can get a permit. Carpenter said 2 days to get everything but the roof done. $35 per hour for him and a helper. Seems more than fair.

I just looked at the plans, looks good, I have a couple of questions.

How does the rafter splice work on the center post? I see that you have the center post top, with a 2" x 6" x 12" scab on both sides. For the rafter splice do the ends of the two rafters butt against each other on top of the scab and against the post? Anything else?

Also, the 2" x 6" tie downs, are these just short pieces of 2 x 6 that are run between the rafter pairs which support the roof purlins?

What are the changes that your carpenter wants to make?

Looks like a good plan, your materials cost is also quite good.

 

[hcallaway]

I just looked at the plans, looks good, I have a couple of questions.

How does the rafter splice work on the center post? I see that you have the center post top, with a 2" x 6" x 12" scab on both sides. For the rafter splice do the ends of the two rafters butt against each other on top of the scab and against the post? Anything else?

Also, the 2" x 6" tie downs, are these just short pieces of 2 x 6 that are run between the rafter pairs which support the roof purlins?

What are the changes that your carpenter wants to make?

Looks like a good plan, your materials cost is also quite good.

The rafters will butt against each other.

I think the new drawings will show what we are going to do if accepted by the county.
The Rafters will sit on top of the Girters and will bolt into the tops of the 6 x 6 posts.
The Rafters will then support 2 x 6 (24" on center) purlins. I am sure we will have to do some additional bracing. We are also using Huricane Clips. I will not be using the scabs. We will use some tie downs out of 2 x 6 scraps.

 

[hcallaway]

Pole Shed
Nice neighbors make life much better.
Appreciated the use of his JD and post hole digger.

Clay was pretty hard. Took the front bucket on the New Holland, applied a little pressure and we dug holes like we were in loose soil. Without the pressure it was not going to happen. The cutting teeth seemed to be in good shape so I am not sure what the real issue was other than the dirt itself.

 

[hcallaway]

The only JD I have is a mower, so this was the first time I have used one other than when I was a kid. My NH is hydrostatic drive and this was I guess what is called a shuttle drive. The JD is a 50 HP, 2 WD tractor and had about 1600 hours on it. It was nice and I really like just turning the key to start without any wait for glow plugs to go off. I always wait for my indicator light to go off. Do you really have to wait once the tractor is warmed up?

 

[sadexcuse4s10]

I personally don't see the point in waiting for the plugs to turn off if the tractor is warm. I just turn the key and fire it up.

 

[hcallaway]

 

[hcallaway]

The building inspector made me add an additional girt since I was putting my 6 x 6 poles on 12' centers or I could have used a composite/glued laminated beam (too costly). Total of 3 2" x 12" x 12" bolted on posts.

I used 2" x 6" purlins. That is more than what was really needed. 2" x 4" would have been fine.
I hope to order the metal roof on Monday. Two week delivery.
Wood take off started around $1200 went to $1700 and then bumped over $2000. I need to learn how to count. $300 went towards 6" x 6" x 16' on 7 posts because of the slope that I had to work with after the county made me move the building back because of set backs on the front of my property.

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't see any bolts. What size did you have to use and how many?

Eddie

 

[hcallaway]

Picture of the carriage bolts. Inspector did not give me a size. I am pretty sure they are 5/8". I used one bolt per 6" x 6" on the ends and two bolts on all the interior girts. I had to catch each of the 2" x 10"'s.

 

[Ranger Rick]

Picture of the carriage bolts. Inspector did not give me a size. I am pretty sure they are 5/8". I used one bolt per 6" x 6" on the ends and two bolts on all the interior girts. I had to catch each of the 2" x 10"'s.

Did you use galvanized bolts? Going through the pressure treated 6x6 you can only use galvanized bolts due to the corrosive nature of the pressure treating. Your picture looks like you used just regular steel bolts. I hope I am wrong for your sake.
Rick