At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods
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#2,001  
The plumber came over to look at the cleanout behind the master bath vanity. He said he would move it for $100. I wasn't real thrilled about how the piping would run afterwards. We have decided to resize the center cabinet that contains the drawers from 15" wide to 19" wide. This change will put the cleanout inside the cabinet that holds the drawers. That space will be a little tight if I have to run a snake in that cabinet but I believe is doable. We could also run a snake by removing the trap below one of the sinks if necessary as has been suggested here. The plumber also suggested that.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,002  
Garage Door Questions
Does anyone have any thoughts on whether to what type of garage door opener to use? Belt drive or screw drive? Why?

Also, how hard is it to get the car out of the garage if the power goes out?

We are planning on having a keyless pad outside of the garage so we can open the garage door if we are outside of the house without a key. Is there anything we should ask for?

Any other garage door suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#2,003  
Happy 2000th posting, I had to do this, since I think I was also #1000. :laughing:
buckeyefarmer,
Congratulations! You win the same prize you won for the #1000 posting.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods
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#2,004  
Obed - What happens to the trailer when You move into the house?

PAGUY
The ceromonial bonfire has an appeal; we're just to cheap to do it. We will sell the camper. We will also sell our 28 foot car hauler trailer that sits beside the camper we are currently storing our stuff in. Right now we have four trailers (tractor for hauling the tractor, small camper at our property on the plateau, big camper we live in, and storage trailer). I'll be happy to get that number down to 2 trailers.

Yes, we are trailer trash; been that way for a long time. To tell you the truth, I would like to have another trailer - something small for making runs to home depot, etc. The 22' trailer that I haul the tractor on is rather cumbersome to connect and pull around so I rarely use it other than to haul the tractor. That's the same trailer we are using to haul away our construction debris.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,005  
Any other garage door suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If the garage has a door into the house, you want a non-coded (just push the button and it opens) opener button there.

You also want a non-coded button to close the door just inside the garage door. There are a lot of times that I am outdoors working on something using tools/equipment from the garage. After I finish, I want to be able to put the tools in the garage, but stay on the outside and close the door.

A plain old pushbutton just inside the door does the trick. Reach in and push it while staying on the outside, so I don't trip the light beam that stops the door from closing.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,006  
[A plain old pushbutton just inside the door does the trick. Reach in and push it while staying on the outside, so I don't trip the light beam that stops the door from closing.]

I do that all the time as I have a garage entrance door that has a key only drop bolt lock on it. Entrance door only gets used in the wintertime for access w/o opening 10' garage door which opens with chain pulley on electric motor. It has emergency pull cord if power goes out.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,007  
screw type are supposed to be quieter.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,008  
Agree with CurlyDave on button placement. Also when you get the doors, order an extra RF remote opener so you have a spare. Much easier to get it now than to try to get someone to focus on a small order later.

When you have no power, you can pull a cord that disconnects the door from the lift mechanism and open/close it manually. The companies also have versions of the doors with batteries in them that work when the power is out. All the usual warnings about things with batteries in them. I didn't price them, suspect it cost a bit...

Look into insulation for the doors. Even a 3/4 to 1 inch insulated door is a big win over no insulation. Between the heat in the slab and heat from the house, your garage will be much warmer in the winter.

Also ask about wind ratings. "Standard" is about 75 MPH, for a small amount more you can get a door rated at 100 MPH. The only difference is they add some horizontal bracing to the door.

Screw drive vs. belt: I have belt, works OK, noise not an issue. Last house had a chain drive, same noise level as the belt. Haven't seen/heard a screw drive in years. A lot of the noise comes down to where are the bedrooms in relationship to the garage. If any are sharing walls or above the garage then noise is a problem, else I wouldn't worry about it.

So price all those flavors- insulated, improved wind rating, and battery backup. Go ahead and price screw vs. belt.

When I did my tractor garage, I put in openers and have a remote in the cab of the tractor. I love working hard so I can be lazy :laughing:.

Pete
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,009  
If the cleanout is too annoying, just cap it off, bury it, and be done with it. I think they are good insurance, but sometimes insurance is not worth the hassle. You can be the judge.

Everyone else explained garage door openers to you just fine, so I won't repeat that. They all have a manual release elver that is required. But you have to be in the garage to use that. You need to make sure you can get into your garage to access that handle somehow. In your case, I doubt this is an issue, but on an isolated garage you may not have access other than the garage door. They do make kits for external manual access (keyed) as an option when needed.

2000(+) posts!!!! Woo Hoo!!

-Dave
 
   / At Home In The Woods #2,010  
And, if your garage door is tensioned properly, it will be very easy to raise manually....

mkane09
 
 
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