Pole Barn Design-Over Building?

[Scotty370]

I'm in the process of a Google-Sketch-up design for a Pole Barn/Shed. I borrowed some design from KennyD, and others. This is a work in progress, so I'm looking for commentary. I know I'll get comments on "Taller Door, Higher ceiling etc." but what I'm looking for is structual comments. Am I over building this? All wood will be rough-cut full 2"x4", or 2"x6" Hemlock. Side wall 'poles' will be two-2"x6" laminated together. I'd thought of shrink wrapping the bottom 4' with something like boat winter wrap. The posts will go 48" into the ground. The trusses will be made from 2x4 rc hemlock. The size is 30'x42'. The post are on 6'centers and the trusses, 3' centers. The skirt board on the outside is a 2x6, and the one inside will be a 2x4 for flooring slab in the front. the rear will be open with a gravel floor for implement storage undercover. A parting wall will be installed. The roofing and siding will be steel. I havn't yet drawn the roof purlins and wall girts. Comments please. ~Scotty

 

[tommu56]

most laminated posts are 3 pt 2x6's.

I woulden't wrap the post it holds in moisture.

put a round concrete puck in the bottom of the hole cross drill the posts in 2 spots run a 1/2" rebar through holes about 18" long
aline and stake posts post pour dry concrete mix in hole.

tom

 

[tommu56]

here are some plans

http://www.cps.gov.on.ca/english/plans/E8000/8312/8312P.pdf

tom

 

[yooperdave]

Why not job this out to someone that does this for a living?

It may be less expensive than what you are showing.

I would set up 8' bay spacing - includes truss and pole spacing.

Embedded wood and sill girt should be pressure treated.

How are you addressing lateral stability and bracing?

What are you using for roof purlins?

Good Luck,

Yooper Dave

 

[Scotty370]

Tom- Thanks! I'll look those over!

Yoop- My thoughts at this: Auger the holes, Pour the 'pucks'. Stand and brace the posts. backfill with dry-mix. Attach the skirt-boards (Girts?). Pour the floor. Then I have a flat surface, on which, to build the trusses. Last I checked, I can get Amish rough-cut Hemlock for about $.42BF. 85bf per truss = $25.50per using $.45bf! (Inflation?) I know I still have to factor in gusset plates on both sides, but, I don't think I can come close to that with a PreFabbed trusses, plus their 'beefier' than the finished 2x4. Guess I'm concerned about how tight to space them! 3' centers seems like overkill. If I just trussed at the poles, I'd save by half!! Would 6' spans for the trusses be too much? And can I get away with framing them w/ 2x4's? Purlins would be more RC 2x4's, as would the girts. I was thinking of 'sheeting' the corner bays (at least with 3/8" (1/2" ply ?) for lateral forces. Eventually probably insulate the 'garage' portion, and sheet it inside, entirely. I'm unfamilar with steel roofing/siding, and the support it needs. ~Scotty

 

[kennyd]

Tom- Thanks! I'll look those over!

Yoop- My thoughts at this: Auger the holes, Pour the 'pucks'. Stand and brace the posts. backfill with dry-mix. Attach the skirt-boards (Girts?). Pour the floor. Then I have a flat surface, on which, to build the trusses. Last I checked, I can get Amish rough-cut Hemlock for about $.42BF. 85bf per truss = $25.50per using $.45bf! (Inflation?) I know I still have to factor in gusset plates on both sides, but, I don't think I can come close to that with a PreFabbed trusses, plus their 'beefier' than the finished 2x4. Guess I'm concerned about how tight to space them! 3' centers seems like overkill. If I just trussed at the poles, I'd save by half!! Would 6' spans for the trusses be too much? And can I get away with framing them w/ 2x4's? Purlins would be more RC 2x4's, as would the girts. I was thinking of 'sheeting' the corner bays (at least with 3/8" (1/2" ply ?) for lateral forces. Eventually probably insulate the 'garage' portion, and sheet it inside, entirely. I'm unfamilar with steel roofing/siding, and the support it needs. ~Scotty

Get a price on trusses...you will be surprised how cheap they really are! Space them every 4', and the poles at 8'. Pour the floor last also. My post's are 3-2x6's laminated with PT on the bottom (real ground contact PT-not the lowes/home depot crap). All purlins and girts can be 2x4'S. Have you seen all the pictures in my albums?

 

[Scotty370]

Thanks KennyD- Back to the drawing board! I've been through your album several times, but I'll revisit it! I started out with your 1/4"=1' sketch in the Day One folder, and then began 'streching' it! I guess I saw the 6' post spacing, in the shed portion, and ran with it! I really do like your diagonal bracing in each bay. really makes sense! I'll re-price fabbed trusses again tomorrow. If I need less of them, then price may be a wash! Maybe I'm too hung up on the attractive price of Amish RC, for my own good. 'Splain to me the " real contact PT vs the L/HD crap.." If you cross a piece of PT, and put the cut piece in the ground, is it protected?

 

[kennyd]

Thanks KennyD- Back to the drawing board! I've been through your album several times, but I'll revisit it! I started out with your 1/4"=1' sketch in the Day One folder, and then began 'streching' it! I guess I saw the 6' post spacing, in the shed portion, and ran with it! I really do like your diagonal bracing in each bay. really makes sense! I'll re-price fabbed trusses again tomorrow. If I need less of them, then price may be a wash! Maybe I'm too hung up on the attractive price of Amish RC, for my own good. 'Splain to me the " real contact PT vs the L/HD crap.." If you cross a piece of PT, and put the cut piece in the ground, is it protected?

Yeah the 6' spacing is just in the rear shed portion...everything else is 8'.

If you look at the tag (fine print) on the wood a L/HD, it will say not to use it in contact with the ground, HERE is a good link with more info.

Building trusses is not easy, getting one correct is easy...getting 10 or more correct AND the same is the trick!

Have you got a price from the Amish? Remember I told you I could not build mine for what they charged me!

 

[MarkV]

Kenny is offering some good advice. Here trusses are often set on 4', 6' and even 8' centers. Of course that depends on your snow load and wind load. Do you have to pull a permit in your area? If so, you may run into problems with home built trusses. Ones designed by a truss company will have an engineers stamp which the building department will want.

The other thought I had was about the laminated posts. Like said in earlier posts, most are made with PT wood in the ground. You will find it hard to get rough cut PT wood to match the size of your other RC 2x6 material. I also wonder how well rough cut wood will laminate together and make a good glue bond.

MarkV

 

[Duffster]

Space them every 4', and the poles at 8'.

Why?

I have seen this often on here but never understood why.