Laying Out A Fence Line

   / Laying Out A Fence Line #11  
Can you run an off set line say 10 or 20 ft or even further off the property line and measure back to clear your line of sight?

I would also try a laser level at night to see of it makes it through your brush it might get you close enough to clear a line of sight
tom
 
   / Laying Out A Fence Line #12  
With flat land, you shouldn't have a problem using a builder's transit or theodolite. The laser type allows you to work alone, the older optical type is very time consuming to use alone. Two people are always going to better than one however.

If you move in the same amount at each end of a side, then site down it and see/remove what is in the way, that should work.

Dave.
 
   / Laying Out A Fence Line #13  
I would consider getting a different fence contractor. It sounds like that type of fence will require felling and trimming trees no matter where the line is. Build as close to the line as legally required. Adverse possession is a problem even though it may be hard to enforce. Also if you have 14 different property owners bordering you that's 14 neighbors that can create a problem. Are any of those neighbors helping with the cost? Do they know you are building a fence?
 
   / Laying Out A Fence Line #14  
I build fences occasionally.

The way I lay out a two thousand foot line with obstacles in the way is with spotter posts.

I use two and three eighths inch light wall pipe because they're light enough to tote and with their thin walls easier to stab into the ground. On a long line like you're describing I will use some marking paint to color the post a contrasting color against the background. It it's blue sky then I'll use a flourescent orange or red, treeline or something dark I'll go with a white.

I go to each end and measure in from the survey pin a set distance. Shorter is easier to work with so if I can get away with three feet I'll use if over five or six feet. I stab in a marking post, seven footers work great, sixes are okay, eight footers if there's grade variances that cause a problem. I plumb up the posts (make them straight up and down with a level).

Then I go to the middle with a helper and another marking post. I have the helper move the post in or out plumb, plumb is important, again straight up and down. I then go to one end or the other and look down from one end post to the other. I move the helper in or out as required until the three posts are in a straight line. We stab that post into the ground and plumb it up. After checking it again for being in line we move to break up the distance again by the obstructions. We put in more marking posts in our line inside the property line on each side of the obstruction.

When we have all those in place we can then place new marking posts along the property line by measuring over exactly the same distance from our inside posts. I go for two inches inside the property line. It gives the property owner ownership of the fence even though the neighbor gets the benefit of it. The neighbor can't grow stuff on it or paint it because it isn't theirs. If the fence cost is being shared by both homeowners then the fence is placed on the property line.

Keep in mind different states have different rules. I've fenced in Arizona, California, Oklahoma, and Texas. The above works in those states. But I know that some states have different rules for their fence statues.

Once I have marker posts then I lay out my post spacing. Back in the day we used claw hammers. I still have a twenty eight ounce Eastwing with really rounded ears from marking post spacing. Now I use marking paint because I have it with me anyways because the locating companies want paint marks where the fence is going to go. Which brings up a very important point. BE SURE AND GET YOUR LOCATES!!! Some things are obvious like the telephone or gas lines should be in the right of way. Here in Texas the water lines can be anywhere, path of least resistance and day of the week matters when it comes to the water lines. Day of the week because some days the operator is more alert or less hung over than others when it came to operating the trencher.

With the spacing laid out, I use eight foot centers because I do a lot of pipe fencing and I get it in twenty four or thirty two foot lengths. With the spacing laid out I lay out the line. Again I use the sight or marker posts.

For the rookie or do it yourselfer I recommend the plumb man method. That's where you stand behind the end post and look down at the next marker post. The helper takes another marking post and puts it over the spacing mark and hold it plumb. You move him in or out and until it lines up with the next marking post. When he has it plumb and in line you have him mark the spot with your marking paint. The helper moves to the next post and you do it all over again.

I can do it with or without a helper. That's because I back sight. I hold my marking post and look down at the next two marking posts. When I have the marking post in my hand plumb and in line I mark it and move to the next one. I only use string on short lines when it would take longer to set up marking posts then it would to drive in some stakes and pull a string. Western fence men don't use strings. In fact a lot of fence companys will not even consider hiring a man who is used to using string. Everything is expected to be done by eye. (Texas for the most part isn't part of the west in that statement).

When people ask me about the string thing I point out that people who use a string invariably check their work by eye. We skip the string part and go straight to the eye from the get go. Another thing is the string will sag or sway in the wind no matter how tight you pull it. The eye has none of those problems.

After the posts are laid out with X's or crosses over each post hole then we do the posts. Once again it's all done by eye, height and line at the same time.

I hope this helps.
 
   / Laying Out A Fence Line #15  
The reason I can't stretch a line between the monuments is that right now the path isn't clear for the entire length, there are a few trees and some brush in the way; that's why I had the idea of stretching a line or using a transit or laser a few feet in where it's clear all the way. The only thing I have to be careful of is not to cut down one of the neighbors' trees.

There is nothing wrong with your idea. Set several stakes along your line, with transit, rifle scope,or by eye, at reasonable intervals. If needed string between those, less wind and sag in the shorter distances. Pull your offset back from you short length of string. Like you said be sure before you cut someone else's trees. Have you talked to the neighboring land owners? Some of them may not mind some of their brush cleared.




As far as setting the fence on the property line and not "cheating" yourself out of that 6" or foot. What is anyone going to do on a foot wide peice of land next to the fence? It is pretty much unusable with the fence there. I know the adverse possesion laws and don't think you would have anything to worry about under normal circumstances.


The way I would set my corner posts for my fence would be as follows. Place the heel of your foot on your property monument and point your toes half way between the east-west line and the north-south line. Place your post at your toes. This will give you roughly 7-10 inches of set back. It also makes it extremly easy to find your property monuments at a later time. You always have your foot with you.
 
   / Laying Out A Fence Line #16  
We have just under 9 acres and it runs 292 by 1310 with a 12 ft creek dividing it front to back. Before closing on my property, I asked that it be pinned and marked at the corners and that the sellers pay for that cost. After that, I contacted the surveying company and payed $400 for them to re-survey the property and pin the sides about every 150 to 200 feet. Our topography prevented us from using line of sight greater than 500 or 600 feet.

I got some t-posts and white PVC pipe and drove a post at each pin. I slid the white pipe over the t-post and used it as a "range rod". With enough of them in a row, you can return to a corner marker and line up the posts. When they overlap each other visually, you can see the objects that are in the way.

With the property line established, I approached the utility company about installing a pole line to get electricity to my construction site. They needed a 20ft easement and I lucked out in this regards b/c they contacted the neighbor and explained that I was going to fence our property. They asked if he would be willing to give any easement for the utilities, which he authorized 5 feet on his side in exchange for me paying for all of the fence. I put up a 4 ft field fence with 10ft spacing on the t-posts and dual-strands of barbed wire. After installing the posts and attempting to pull about 100ft of the field fence, I ended up paying a fencing company to pull the wire
 
 
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