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  1. #21
    Elite Member bindian's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    4,841
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    Willis, Texas
    Tractor
    Mahindra 6520 4WD

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    I finally started putting some fence posts up. This is one of the Mountain Juniper posts I cut down at Welding is Fun's place 2 years ago. I didn't pressure wash it, but took the bark off with a screwdriver. The outer stringy bark fell right off, but termites got under it and the smooth brown bark. This even with the posts a foot off the ground. The eastern red cedar post I had shed all it's bark by itself, but not these mountain junipers. The termites would not burrow past the white cedar, but you can see the trails them made on top of it.

    I started the fence from the end of my driveway up to my new mailbox. The mailbox got flattened a few weeks ago and I replaced the wooden post with a 4 inch diameter, 1/4" thick galvanized pipe and augered a hole almost 5 feet deep and concreted it all in place. Let them flatten this mailbox and post! This fence will be 3 feet from the pavement that goes past the cul-de-sac and that will make it 12 foot from my property line, which runs down the middle of the pavement.

    I topped the post at 10 feet, and plan on a 16 or 20 foot gate with a support wire from the top of this post.
    hugs, Brandi
    -11-24-12-peeling-gate-11-25-12-new-mailbox-11-25-12-gate-post

  2. #22
    Super Member texasjohn's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    5,468
    Location
    Central Texas, Jarrell
    Tractor
    Kubota 5030HSTC

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    righteous post. You will also want a wire running from the top of this post to the bottom of a brace post along the fence line....to counter the weight of the gate you are going to hang on the post.
    Joy is having the tools you need and needing the tools you have!

    Kubota 5030 HSTC, BB, Danueser PHD, LA853 QA HD FEL w JD toothbar, 3pt chisel, 3 pt disk, 6' shredder, Kubota FEL hay spike, 3pt hay fork w carryall, Kubota RTV 1140

  3. #23
    Elite Member bindian's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    Willis, Texas
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    Mahindra 6520 4WD

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    Quote Originally Posted by texasjohn View Post
    righteous post. You will also want a wire running from the top of this post to the bottom of a brace post along the fence line....to counter the weight of the gate you are going to hang on the post.
    Huh.............the gate will be about 90 degrees to the fence. Grandpa had wheels under his 20 foot gates. Anyways, wire and cross braced cedar will be on the end runs. We use barbed wire twisted with a stick.
    Joy is going shopping for the tools you need.
    hugs, Brandi

  4. #24
    Platinum Member lutt's Avatar
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    Dec 2010
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    516
    Location
    Pocahontas, Arkansas
    Tractor
    Kubota ZG 22, John Deere 4200 4wd/ 420 loader, 4 wd,08 polaris 700 ranger crew

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    Quote Originally Posted by bindian View Post
    Huh.............the gate will be about 90 degrees to the fence. Grandpa had wheels under his 20 foot gates. Anyways, wire and cross braced cedar will be on the end runs. We use barbed wire twisted with a stick.
    Joy is going shopping for the tools you need.
    hugs, Brandi
    That is what we try to do on gates,wheels on the end.Seen them done both ways,I never liked the looks of wire strung down to the end of the gate. LUTT

  5. #25
    Elite Member bindian's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    Willis, Texas
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    Mahindra 6520 4WD

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    Oh Lutt,
    What's the fun in no wire. You need somewhere to hang stuff on.
    hugs, Brandi

  6. #26
    Super Member texasjohn's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    5,468
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    Central Texas, Jarrell
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    Kubota 5030HSTC

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    Wheels work. I've got a neighbor who has a wheel on a gate with a concrete runway for the wheel to follow. Don't know why...never rains here so wheel never gets in the mud I gave up on twisted sticks some years ago...use a fence ratchet from Tractor Supply (about $3) to tighten brace wires. Leave in fence, come back later and tighten as needed as slack develops. And, why use a stick when you can go shopping

    Quote Originally Posted by bindian View Post
    Huh.............the gate will be about 90 degrees to the fence. Grandpa had wheels under his 20 foot gates. Anyways, wire and cross braced cedar will be on the end runs. We use barbed wire twisted with a stick.
    Joy is going shopping for the tools you need.
    hugs, Brandi
    Joy is having the tools you need and needing the tools you have!

    Kubota 5030 HSTC, BB, Danueser PHD, LA853 QA HD FEL w JD toothbar, 3pt chisel, 3 pt disk, 6' shredder, Kubota FEL hay spike, 3pt hay fork w carryall, Kubota RTV 1140

  7. #27
    Elite Member bindian's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    4,841
    Location
    Willis, Texas
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    Mahindra 6520 4WD

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    Quote Originally Posted by texasjohn View Post
    Wheels work. I've got a neighbor who has a wheel on a gate with a concrete runway for the wheel to follow. Don't know why...never rains here so wheel never gets in the mud I gave up on twisted sticks some years ago...use a fence ratchet from Tractor Supply (about $3) to tighten brace wires. Leave in fence, come back later and tighten as needed as slack develops. And, why use a stick when you can go shopping
    Thanks John. I get the wire reatchets at TSC. Twisted sticks were from my Dad's day.
    hugs, Brandi

  8. #28
    Gold Member
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    Jan 2012
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    278
    Location
    Moores Hill, Indiana
    Tractor
    MF 150, TO-35, John Deere 5065E, Caterpiller 953 track loader

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    I'm late to the discussion of little end or big end in the ground. If I'm digging a hole for a post with either hand diggers or PTO auger, I always put the big end in the hole. Seems like you can tamp in the the dirt better and get a more solid post that way. If I'm driving them with my 953 Cat track loader, I sharpen the small end and put it in the ground. Since there is no tamping when driven, the posts are solid immediately and they drive much easier. I also didn't worry about bark on the driven posts, but I did de bark the hand tamped ones. They just seemed to be more solid that way.

    For a test, I drove a gate post and hand dug and tamped one then hung a 14' gate on both and did not use wire on either. The driven post has not moved in 3 years, but the hand dug one has moved enough that I had to adjust the hinges since it was no longer level.

    I should also note that I'm using locust posts with a few cedar thrown in. There are still some 30 year old cedar posts on the back of the property that are still pretty solid, so yours should last a long time.
    MBA = More Bad Advice

  9. #29
    Elite Member
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    Aug 2004
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    3,357
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    North of Mtl,Que,Can (Ste Adele)
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    MT180D

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    Logic would suggest that the big end would be in the ground as rotting process would take longer as well as considering laws of leverage, the closer to the fulcrum point the thickest would be best.

  10. #30
    Veteran Member
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    Jun 2012
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    Mt Crawford Va
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    massey GC 2400 JD LA 145

    Default Re: Cedar post fence

    New question, I was always told that cedar posts from a field grown cedar was not worth putting in the ground. The idea was that they had more sap wood and not as much heart. anyone else heard that?

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