30x30 concrete slab water cure

   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #21  
...Concrete hardens by absorbing water...

actually curing concrete is the process of the water leaving the pour...dehydration

keeping a pour wet helps control the hydration process...

I don't know for sure if using plastic is recommended because it could cause improper "moisture vapor transmission" whice is the key to curing...there must be a certain amount of air circulation (carbon dioxide) for optimal curing...
 
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   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #22  
actually curing/hydrating concrete is process of the water leaving the pour...it's called "hydration"...

keeping a pour wet helps control the hydration process...

I don't know for sure if using plastic is recommended because it could cause improper "moisture vapor transmission" whice is the key to curing...there must be a certain amount of air circulation (carbon dioxide) for optimal curing...

That is why burlap is used.
 
   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #23  
http://matse1.matse.illinois.edu/concrete/prin.html

The above site gives some interesting information on cement.


From the Portland Cement Association.:thumbsup:


Concrete Basics
Concrete Basics Home > Concrete Basics



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In its simplest form, concrete is a mixture of paste and aggregates. The paste, composed of Portland cement and water, coats the surface of the fine and coarse aggregates. Through a chemical reaction called hydration, the paste hardens and gains strength to form the rock-like mass known as concrete.

Within this process lies the key to a remarkable trait of concrete: it's plastic and malleable when newly mixed, strong and durable when hardened. These qualities explain why one material, concrete, can build skyscrapers, bridges, sidewalks and superhighways, houses and dams.

Proportioning

The key to achieving a strong, durable concrete rests in the careful proportioning and mixing of the ingredients. A concrete mixture that does not have enough paste to fill all the voids between the aggregates will be difficult to place and will produce rough, honeycombed surfaces and porous concrete. A mixture with an excess of cement paste will be easy to place and will produce a smooth surface; however, the resulting concrete is likely to shrink more and be uneconomical.

A properly designed concrete mixture will possess the desired workability for the fresh concrete and the required durability and strength for the hardened concrete. Typically, a mix is about 10 to 15 percent cement, 60 to 75 percent aggregate and 15 to 20 percent water. Entrained air in many concrete mixes may also take up another 5 to 8 percent.

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Portland cement's chemistry comes to life in the presence of water. Cement and water form a paste that coats each particle of stone and sand. Through a chemical reaction called hydration, the cement paste hardens and gains strength. The character of the concrete is determined by quality of the paste. The strength of the paste, in turn, depends on the ratio of water to cement. The water-cement ratio is the weight of the mixing water divided by the weight of the cement. High-quality concrete is produced by lowering the water-cement ratio as much as possible without sacrificing the workability of fresh concrete. Generally, using less water produces a higher quality concrete provided the concrete is properly placed, consolidated, and cured.

Other Ingredients

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Although most drinking water is suitable for use in concrete, aggregates are chosen carefully. Aggregates comprise 60 to 75 percent of the total volume of concrete. The type and size of the aggregate mixture depends on the thickness and purpose of the final concrete product. Almost any natural water that is drinkable and has no pronounced taste or odor may be used as mixing water for concrete. However, some waters that are not fit for drinking may be suitable for concrete.

Excessive impurities in mixing water not only may affect setting time and concrete strength, but also may cause efflorescence, staining, corrosion of reinforcement, volume instability, and reduced durability. Specifications usually set limits on chlorides, sulfates, alkali's, and solids in mixing water unless tests can be performed to determine the effect the impurity has on various properties. Relatively thin building sections call for small coarse aggregate, though aggregates up to six inches (150 mm) in diameter have been used in large dams. A continuous gradation of particle sizes is desirable for efficient use of the paste. In addition, aggregates should be clean and free from any matter that might affect the quality of the concrete.
More on concrete design and production.
Hydration Begins

Soon after the aggregates, water, and the cement are combined, the mixture starts to harden. All Portland cements are hydraulic cements that set and harden through a chemical reaction with water. During this reaction, called hydration, a node forms on the surface of each cement particle. The node grows and expands until it links up with nodes from other cement particles or adheres to adjacent aggregates.

The building up process results in progressive stiffening, hardening, and strength development. Once the concrete is thoroughly mixed and workable it should be placed in forms before the mixture becomes too stiff.

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During placement, the concrete is consolidated to compact it within the forms and to eliminate potential flaws, such as honeycombs and air pockets. For slabs, concrete is left to stand until the surface moisture film disappears. After the film disappears from the surface, a wood or metal handfloat is used to smooth off the concrete. Floating produces a relatively even, but slightly rough, texture that has good slip resistance and is frequently used as a final finish for exterior slabs. If a smooth, hard, dense surface is required, floating is followed by steel troweling.

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Curing begins after the exposed surfaces of the concrete have hardened sufficiently to resist marring. Curing ensures the continued hydration of the cement and the strength gain of the concrete. Concrete surfaces are cured by sprinkling with water fog, or by using moisture-retaining fabrics such as burlap or cotton mats. Other curing methods prevent evaporation of the water by sealing the surface with plastic or special sprays (curing compounds).

Special techniques are used for curing concrete during extremely cold or hot weather to protect the concrete. The longer the concrete is kept moist, the stronger and more durable it will become. The rate of hardening depends upon the composition and fineness of the cement, the mix proportions, and the moisture and temperature conditions. Most of the hydration and strength gain take place within the first month of concrete's life cycle, but hydration continues at a slower rate for many years. Concrete continues to get stronger as it gets older.
 
   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #24  
actually curing concrete is the process of the water leaving the pour...dehydration...

This is exactly backwards.

"Water is the key ingredient, which when mixed with cement, forms a paste that binds the aggregate together. The water causes the hardening of concrete through a process called hydration. Hydration is a chemical reaction in which the major compounds in cement form chemical bonds with water molecules and become hydrates or hydration products...."

The concrete does not "dry" in the classic sense. The water only seems to disappear -- in reality it becomes a chemical part of the concrete.
 
   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #25  
This is exactly backwards...
The concrete does not "dry" in the classic sense. The water only seems to disappear -- in reality it becomes a chemical part of the concrete.

sorry for the mis-information...I was relying on what I have (dubiously) retained from a course (specifically on concrete and reinforcing placement) I took as part of the general contracting class in the mid to late 60's

...but only so much water becomes "part of the concrete" the rest evaporates...
it is paramount to use the least amount of water to obtain the optimal strength concrete in the mixture...

example...if you take a test pour and weigh all of the material (portland, fine and course aggregate and the water)...and allow it to cure...the total weight of the finished (hardened) pour will be just slightly less than the total weight of the components (including the water)...regardless of how much water is applied to the "pour" while it's curing (after it has set)...if allowed to dry for 28 days or more...

something else that has not been mentioned ....is the "air entraining" agents that are required to prevent freeze-thaw cycle damage to concrete...without the "tiny bubbles" within a pour...freezing and thawing of concrete will cause it to loose durability...
 
   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #26  
On my Alaskan slab I went with plastic underneath and then after power troweling I used the left over plastic to cover it (about 5 hours after pouring). There were lots of places for any trapped gasses to escape but it held the water on it nicely. I would have used burlap but I wasn't going to be able to keep wetting it down. I left it on for a week before starting the 2' knee walls.
 
   / 30x30 concrete slab water cure #27  
I'll wait and see how mine turns out. I put on a curer/sealer 2 days after it was poured. It was saw cut the day before, and then I hosed it off good and used a squeeqy to remove the water. I waited over 30 days before putting anything on the concrete. My tractor tires have left some marks on the surface, it appears from the sealer.
 
 
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