Well Pump Question

[Believer]

I bought place with an old house on it circa 1893. There a drilled well about 40 feet deep. The casing is pretty much gone at the surface but good below ground. I just pulled out the old pipe that probably hand a hand pump up top. Water is about 20 feet down.

I have a fes questions. First question relates to pump style I should get. A jet pump should do the job but I have to have the pump outside. Seems like it would be simpler to use a submersible. Also with a submersible I could use a pitless adapter and keep more of the system below frost line. With a jet pump, I'd have to dig a below ground box for the pump (below frost line). Am I thinking right? Which pump style would you use?

Now to the casing. If I use the submersible, I was thinking of digging down a foot and simple putting a larger-than-the-casing PVC pipe around the old casing, extending it up above ground, and backfilling. Does this sound good? If I use a jet pump, how would I "seal" the top of the well?

Last question. I'd like to put the pressure tank directly in the ground, i.e., bury it. Then I'll go to a freeze proof hydrant. Now everything is underground and freeze proof. I can't find an underground pressure tank, though. There must be such a thing; does anyone know a source?

Thanks.

 

[Kays Supply]

The systems I worked on years ago, like you describe, dug the well house in the ground. They put an insulated lid on it. In your case, that would make using the old casing easier because you could just cut it off where it is still good and seal it there. You could use a standard tank.

 

[DaveOmak]

Putting the well house below ground is a good idea.
A submersible pump is more efficient than a jet.
Check with a well guy about this. Line the existing casing with PVC. Install a screened portion at the bottom and then seal the upper section with grout. That should keep the drinking water clean and safe in the event the old casing collapses.
Not knowing how old or the size of the casing makes all of this a guess.
Bury the power and water line at the same time to your house. Install a small 220V heater in the pump house while you are at it. Maybe a beer fridge too!
Make the well house big enough for a root cellar?
OK OK I'm gettin carried away here.
Good luck. Dave

 

[MacLawn]

Don't think I can help much, except to ask, where are you? Doesn't say in your name. Where I am, you would not have to go so deep to be below frost line, but in International Falls (MN), whew...cold up there!

 

[gauthier]

www.aquascience.com,believe they sell under ground pressure tanks,just bought a tank off them,fast shipping.

 

[Bikewanderer]

I bought place with an old house on it circa 1893. There a drilled well about 40 feet deep. The casing is pretty much gone at the surface but good below ground. I just pulled out the old pipe that probably hand a hand pump up top. Water is about 20 feet down.

I have a fes questions. First question relates to pump style I should get. A jet pump should do the job but I have to have the pump outside. Seems like it would be simpler to use a submersible. Also with a submersible I could use a pitless adapter and keep more of the system below frost line. With a jet pump, I'd have to dig a below ground box for the pump (below frost line). Am I thinking right? Which pump style would you use?

Now to the casing. If I use the submersible, I was thinking of digging down a foot and simple putting a larger-than-the-casing PVC pipe around the old casing, extending it up above ground, and backfilling. Does this sound good? If I use a jet pump, how would I "seal" the top of the well?

Last question. I'd like to put the pressure tank directly in the ground, i.e., bury it. Then I'll go to a freeze proof hydrant. Now everything is underground and freeze proof. I can't find an underground pressure tank, though. There must be such a thing; does anyone know a source?

Thanks.

You need a well casing. It's what keeps contamination out of the well. I am getting ready to spend $6000 for a new well because mine isn't lined either. I've been having trouble with bacteria in the water. Seriously - call a pro and get it taken care of.

Next - a shallow well pump can only pull about 25 feet. Much deeper than that and it will cavitate the pump - the suction boils the water at room temperature. You need a deep well jet pump or submersible.

Lastly, I prefer to use a pitless adapter at the well and go into the house with the line and place the bladder tank and switches inside the basement. Is this not feasible for some reason?

 

[SBB]

Believer,
I'd agree with everything already mentioned by the others. I've only got two things to add. 1) If your wellhead is near a stream or river you might think about the high water mark in the event of a flood. Our well is about 50 feet from a small stream. Our well casing sticks out of the ground about 2 feet. I asked the local drilling guy if it would cause any problems if I cut it down to be flush with the ground or slightly under ground. His advice was to leave it as is in case the stream floods. As long as the flood water doesn't top the casing, we won't need to worry about contaminating our well. Even though the well is sealed, that seemed like good advice.

2) When thinking about what kind of pump to get, you may not be able to count on the water level being at 20 feet. Even though your water line is about 20 feet right now, that is just your static water level. Once you start drawing on the well, your actual water level may be below 20 feet. In other words, once you start using your well and you've pumped out the static water (the water that is just sitting in the unused well) you may find that your water level is lower than 20 feet. Good luck.

 

[gauthier]

Many water wells the casing top is 2-3 ft below the ground,,normal you might say in the older days,,they have a water tight well casing cap,so ...

 

[crazyal]

You would be best off checking with a well company on this. The casing is usually driven into rock to seal the ground water from the water in the rock, at least that's how it's done here. The casing usually stick up a couple of feet to keep things from dropping into the well and to make it easier to find in the middle of winter if the pump needs pulling.

A well guy can tell you what the water make up of the well is. You can also pick his brain while he's there and get his opinions. With only about 20 feet of water in the well you really need a decent supply or you'll run your well dry and burn up your pump. As far as submersible pumps come in different HP and pump flow. They are sized off of the size of the house, the make up of the well, the reserve amount of static level of the well, and the total height the water will travel, the low point being where the pump will be located in the well to the highest fixture in the house.

If this is for a hunting cabin then I wouldn't go too over board but if this is for a house and you want to sell it some day anything that doesn't look normal will be a red flag for an inspector.

 

[dave1949]

I would have the well water tested if you haven't yet for contamination, arsenic, radon, (if that applies in your area) etc before doing anything. You could be spending money on a well that needs to be replaced.

Dave.