My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn

   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn #31  
Dang!
I am impressed and inspired.
Your craftsmanship & creative problem solving are showcased in this build.
I want one. I want one now.
You seem a little unhappy about the crookedness of the poles, but my impression is that almost any timber you get these days is going to bow and twist. Seems your design has acounted for that, so I expect it will be able to handle all the forces that nature will throw at it without tearing itself apart.

So now for some questions:
How did you get the poles?
Do you actually walk on your 6 in 12 metal roof? I get queezy just thinking about that.
Can you give us a rough idea of cost for materials?
I'm interested in replacing an outbuilding shed with something of similar construction, but much smaller - say 16x48 with enough height that I can drive in with ROPs up.
-Jim
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Dang!
I am impressed and inspired.
Your craftsmanship & creative problem solving are showcased in this build.
I want one. I want one now.
You seem a little unhappy about the crookedness of the poles, but my impression is that almost any timber you get these days is going to bow and twist. Seems your design has acounted for that, so I expect it will be able to handle all the forces that nature will throw at it without tearing itself apart.

So now for some questions:
How did you get the poles?
Do you actually walk on your 6 in 12 metal roof? I get queezy just thinking about that.
Can you give us a rough idea of cost for materials?
I'm interested in replacing an outbuilding shed with something of similar construction, but much smaller - say 16x48 with enough height that I can drive in with ROPs up.
-Jim

Got the poles from the local rural electric company. My Mom works there, but anyone can get the used poles they have replaced for free. Some of them arent worth getting, and others may be brand new poles that were broken for whatever reason. But if their was 18' of good pole after the break, that was fine with me.

When I installed the roof, I did it one panel at a time. My arms were lone enough to reach the far screws while still being able to stand on the purlins. The only time I had to walk on it was the very last sheet. And I had a strap around myself and tied off to the peak. Not really a fall arest harness, Just somthing to assist me as well as walking on the screws.

Right now I have right at 10k invested. That is with everything including the loft/interior. Most of the materials was bought at menards. Some of the most MAJOR expenses were concrete, metal, and garage doors. I have 1200 in the 4 doors, 3500 in metal, and another 1200 in the 12yds of concrete. That is $5900 just in those 3. Building lumber, insulation, wiring, that was all cheap compaired to those three.

I can give a better cost breakdown when I get home tonight. I saved most the reciepts and started tallying in an excel spreadsheet. I think I was at about $8k under roof, doors, concrete, and electric. And the last 2k was the wall/partition, insulation, I-beams(used off c-list), OSB for interior, etc.
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn #33  
Great job on the building, using the round poles added a little time in the building process but saved you a lot of money. Did you build the rafters on the ground? If so you must have had to level up the area pretty well that is one nice thing about having a slab poured first you can build them on the slab. But in your case that wasn't possible.

You have a lot of nice usable space with that added loft. The only caution I would have is it looks like the wiring coming out of the fuse box has no collars around it, maybe it was temporary and you put them on later. If not you can still do so easily.
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn #34  
Even though it is direct burry, it is ran in grey electrical PVC conduit including in the basement of the house.
I also ran a coax cable out there so my shop part also has cable TV. No water or plumbing though.

Hey, that's a really nice pole barn. I built a 40 foot pole barn years ago and it is without a doubt the best addition we ever did to the property. My wife loves it.

Here's some tricks I learned after using the pole barn for a few decades...., and also a hinto on how I got my wife to not only approve but participate in the project from design to finish.

That's the most important thing, so it comes first....

Storage: The trick for wifely approval was to design and build in dedicated storage for house stuff into the pole barn. We built upstairs storage areas on both ends of the pole barn about 12 feet deep and spanning the whole width. That's an awesome amount of storage, and exclusively for her. Build it bug tight, dust free, and painted. That upstairs storage easily took all the old stuff that any rural household tends to accumulate because it "might be needed someday". Things like Grandma's sewing machine, Aunt Hilda's dishes, and old National Geo mags. Now all that is available, dry, save, and out of the way. Our house is far nicer too.

Walls: I put money into in real good wiring and insulation, but the inside walls stayed covered with only a medium -duty clear plastic for years. Part of it still is. That was good because I could see the studs and wiring while deciding on shelves and stuff.

Floor: I did part concrete floor (just for the machine tools) and left the rest hard-packed dirt. It's been 40 years now and to my surprise I find that the hard dirt is a nicer surface in almost every way. High use areas get astroturf throw rugs.

HEAT: I got smart sometime toward the end of the floor pour. Not smart enough to hire the concrete delivered - I was still mixing by hand - but smart enough the second time to put a roll of that orange heat pipe down before pouring. It's special metal sandwich plastic Pex made for hydronic heating. Not expensive at all if you buy one continuous roll and just let the ends stick up. I put it down directly on the ground right before pouring the concrete. Now the whole shop can be heated with a simple domestic hot water heater. Fantastic. Warm Feet! You can bet I'll never miss that trick again.

Utilities: I ran underground PVC from the house for wiring. Wish I had run some extra pipe while I was at it. In the future, any ditch I build will get a few extra runs of 2" heavy PVC laid with a nylon cord inside all for future projects. Same for any PVC pipe under anything especially a concrete floor. Put in extras pipe; why not? Same for any ditch, might as well lay some extra pipe in there too.

Roof: Not much beats a metal roof screwed down. And if you can stand the galvanized look, the best metal is the heavy gauge "strongbarn". It's strong enough to go over stringers directly, though figure that eventually you will want to insulate any metal roof so plan for that happening. Don't stand on the rafters to put it on. Use ladders or scaffolds from inside and put on a piece at a time. Nicer job and safe.

The Far End: After a few years I chose a wind-protected end and put in a couple of posts to make a simple open-walled outside tractor shed. In fact, that roofed over open area with one wall turns out to be a great place for outside projects of all kinds. I lucked out by having the right place available, but doing it again I'd design for somday having that open shed option attached on the end even if it means less inside space. It could always be enclosed, I think it you'll find it better as a sort of attached carport. Very nice work area in the summer.

I hope this all helps someone. They're all things I've thought about after using our pole barn for 40 years.
rScotty
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Great job on the building, using the round poles added a little time in the building process but saved you a lot of money. Did you build the rafters on the ground? If so you must have had to level up the area pretty well that is one nice thing about having a slab poured first you can build them on the slab. But in your case that wasn't possible.

You have a lot of nice usable space with that added loft. The only caution I would have is it looks like the wiring coming out of the fuse box has no collars around it, maybe it was temporary and you put them on later. If not you can still do so easily.

Yes it added considerable time. Mainly boxling in around the tapered and crooked poles to get straight openings for the garage doors. That is one of the reasones I NEVER throw lumber away no matter how short the peices are. I cannot tell you how many peices of under 1' lumber was used building this barn. And IMO it is stupid to cut up a good 8' peice when there are pleanty of trim scraps from other places.

And yes I built them on the ground. I have a omewhat level area on the driveway. Laid out and built the first one. And with it still laying there, in about 12 different areas we attached a little 4" peices of 2x4 sticking up. Laid the next boards down on top of the first truss, snugged them up aginst those boards, and nailed together. So the first truss was the jig. We knocked them little peices off when we had built enough trusses.

And yes the breaker pannel got collars before the interior was done.:thumbsup:
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn
  • Thread Starter
#36  
rScotty:

Getting wifey approval was no problem. I was not married at the time. But my wife now was my g-friend then and was living with me. At the time she was driving a 03 ram 1500. Neither it nor my 03 silverado would fit into the garage attached to the house. So getting approval was no problem. Se didnt like scraping snow and ice off her truck any more than I did.

And I have heard good things about the radiant floor heat, but I didn't want nor do I forsee ever wanting it in my garage. Using a domestic hot water heater to heat the water and then circulate doesnt sound very efficent to me:confused2: And deffinatally not as efficent as my barrel stove that heats the shop up very quickley when I need it to, as I am not out there every day and I dont heat it when I'm not using it.
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn #37  
And IMO it is stupid to cut up a good 8' peice when there are pleanty of trim scraps from other places.

And yes I built them on the ground. I have a omewhat level area on the driveway. Laid out and built the first one. And with it still laying there, in about 12 different areas we attached a little 4" peices of 2x4 sticking up. Laid the next boards down on top of the first truss, snugged them up aginst those boards, and nailed together. So the first truss was the jig. :thumbsup:

Hey! That's the same way I built mine! Built the first one real accurately on the ground using screwed & glued plywood gussets instead of nail plates. That made it real rigid. Then used that one as a pattern for the rest.

The plywood gussets were so much stronger and better than the nail plates that I eventually put them on all the truss frames. Even the ones with nail plates.

Rotating the trusses up into position was the tricky part.
rScotty
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn #38  
My question is how did you get those trusses up into place? When I built my barn I built the loft floor first and then laid out each truss on that surface. It was a fairly easy job for me to rotate the trusses into place by myself. Of course, mine were only 20 feet wide. I love the look of your structure, I wish I had thought to put a metal roof on mine.:thumbsup:
 
   / My uniquely built 30x50 Pole barn #39  
rScotty:

And I have heard good things about the radiant floor heat, but I didn't want nor do I forsee ever wanting it in my garage. Using a domestic hot water heater to heat the water and then circulate doesnt sound very efficent to me:confused2: And deffinatally not as efficent as my barrel stove that heats the shop up very quickley when I need it to, as I am not out there every day and I dont heat it when I'm not using it.

I think you are right. I don't think that a hot water heated floor is very efficient either. What it is, is a dead cheap, safe, and reliable way to limit how cold the shop can get. A sort of baseline.

When I did mine, a few hundred dollars for a roll of PEX pipe does about a 20x20 foot area. Then you need hot water heater, thermostat, tiny pump, some on/off valves, and an expansion tank. Fill the system with propylene glycol at about 10psi. That system hasn't got the BTU muscle or efficiency to be a single source of heat in a pole barn in the dead of winter, but it's just the thing for keeping some sort of baseline temperature in there. Now nothing can freeze. And your feet are warm. The key is that having it doesn't cost anything if it isn't running. Nor does it get in the way of the pot belly stove. I've one of those too. The only reason I mention it is because if there is any chance a guy might want to do the same then the pipe has to be there before the cement is poured. Then you can use it or not, but it can't be added later. BTW, my concrete is 4" thick & the pipe is all the way down on the bottom.
Gotta love Pole Barns. We sure like ours.
rScotty
 
 
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